joe90

I forget who it was but someone slowly raised their DHW temp to the point where they could only just hold their hand under the tap and measured the temp at 47’. Raising the temp higher only just wastes energy (IMO).

Hi Tyke2, we have only just moved in so I am unable to give examples of electricity usage. Our ensuite is electric wire embedded in self levelling compound with QVT on top run by timer and thermostat , towel radiator is 300 watt (was 700watt but got too hot) also run by timer. The UFH downstairs is wet run from an ASHP which will also deliver DHW to a 300litre insulated tank. Unlike so many on this forum I used gessanometry to work out what was required, others have used software such as PHPP . We also have a room sealed Wood burning stove in the lounge which many on here says will overheat the house but with bifolds into a large sunspace (eco word for conservatory ) I don’t think it will be a problem. We are looking forward to winter evenings watching the stove rather than a lot of crap on TV. (Note, a lot on here are against wood burning stoves but we are in a remote rural location with a source of wood so am happy with our decision). We have no trickle vents but have MVHR to recover most of the heat from our ventilation requirement, this also saves us having kitchen and bathroom extractors which are big thermal bridges. With no access to mains Gas I believe electric using an ASHP is the best option plus the fact we have no standing charge for Gas connection and annual service charges. As I said above we will need to see what our usage pattern is and see if E7 or E10 is worthwhile. whatever our usage is it will be far less than a “normal” house

An ASHP is basically a fridge running in reverse, how often do you service your fridge? UFH is pipes buried in concrete, what can go wrong?. MVHR is two low energy fans and a radiator and some simple electronics. my build is fabric first and attention to detail (overseen or done by myself). Insulation is fairly cheap and you buy it once , fossil fuels cost endlessly plus price rises. I too like uncomplicated systems (I am a Luddite by nature?) I only have electric UFH in our en suite and electric towel radiator upstairs, I believe heat will rise from downstairs to heat upstairs enough, if not (very cold snap in winter) a couple of low wattage electric fan heaters will be more than enough to cope. I am contemplating E7 or E10 but will need to see how the house behaves for a year to see if it’s required. Read, read and read more on this forum and you will be enlightened.

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I discovered induction jobs when I did a cooking course and found them very controllable and easy to keep clean (I do half the cooking ).

£175?, I am buying er indoors a hop up .

Gosh, my heart goes out to you over this awful problem, my thoughts are sue the bastards, (roofer) for everything, it’s up to them to involve their insurers. You have been more than reasonable so far and can prove it but they are taking the mickey Despite the financial cost there is the worry and stress factor . Hit them.

I am yet to wire up my MVHR, we do get a little condensation after a shower and we have been cooking fir 4 months and not noticed any real problems. We do however need bedroom windows open at night and suffer a little if we don’t. It’s on my very long to do list !!!! If I remember correctly we have a humidity sensor that should boost the MVHR automatically.

Like Terry above I do think you have to see how your house behaves before making firm decisions, saying that, installing UFH is a must for heating or cooling. We don’t have PV, electric only, and a cheap Ebay ASHP (not working yet) we moved in about 4 months ago and have not needed any heating and DHW is using Imersions. I confess I do not understand a lot of the complicated control systems that some talk about, I am also a bit of a Luddite, KISS works for me (and is easy to repair) I like the idea of setting a thermostat to a set comfortable temp then letting the system self regulate.

I agree. Our rumble drain is10 meters long from the treatment plant to a ditch that runs 3/4 of the year, it then goes into a road drain for 30 meters then into another ditch eventually heading (as a blue line on ordinance survey maps) west. When I applied for permission for the plant I was asked for the name of the waterway it went to but it was so small it had no name. The lady dealing with our application was so helpful, on the document she supplied when she granted permission I noticed she named the watercourse as “river Tamar” which is miles away but I guess that’s where it ends up eventually. We are on heavy yellow clay under only 200mm of topsoil.

Ha, I wanted induction but my other half wanted Gas so we compromised (she had her way ?).

Yellow plastic gas pipe but it’s not allowed inside the house or above ground, has to be converted to copper, gas man told me this is in case of fire plastic pipe will melt. Gas man is my electricians brother (and I know where he lives) but, you are right will contact him this week , thanks Dave.

I had my bottled gas connected to the cooker by a Gas safe chap, i installed the pipe but he saw that at both ends it was encased in sand, pressure tested it, connected the changeover valve, changed the jets to LPG ones, tested and ran the cooker and will forward a certificate when I need it for BC sign off.

Right. The noise is still an issue as during the past weeks with lovely evenings we enjoy sitting outside listening to the birdsong, it is a very quiet area. Although initially very pleased with my “soundproofing” we do find it a little annoying during our quiet time (during the day it’s not a problem). Question, is there any harm in switching it off for short periods, say an hour, or maybe two?

I too have a missus that loves to use bleach and I have had to rein her in on cleaners around the house.

When mine was installed (very high winter water table) the concrete was dumped by the gate, I loaded it with my JCB into a dumper which took the mix to the tank and digger driver scooped concrete into the void around the tank, it was a dry mix and only took about an hour.

I love my iPad for day to day stuff but I have a “normal” laptop for proper computer work,I.e. spreadsheets.?

I,m buggered when I burn the toast then?.

We have no wall cupboards in our kitchen because my other half can’t reach them!

Mines for sale next year!

A reminder for us all!

I am all for simple controls. On another forum a chap with a passive house simply heated the slab to 1 or 2 degrees above his reqd room temp and found is self regulated. If we go E7 or E10 we may heat at night or when prices are low to take advantage of a heavy house. (We have no PV.). As Jeremy states above heat first thing in the morning would be welcome and solar gain may take over during the day (hopefully ?).

Finally got to this job, both were very hot as above, bought PTC ones as per peters suggestion above, still getting very hot but noticed the old ones were 700 watt, these new ones are 300watt so saving money if nothing else. I still think adjustable ones are best especially if children are about.

Welcome and good for you, looking forward to hearing your unfolding story and remember there s no such thing as a silly question, being silly is not asking ?

We have a black theme, cooker, extractor, fridge/freezer, worktop (not gloss), kickboard, handles and it looks great against painted grained oak cupboards. We also have a black metal and oak theme throughout the rest of the house. Very “cottage”.