joe90

would it?, surely if you are proved wrong that in your opinion it was PD but the council disagree you just apply retrospectively surely? I say this because I also want to build a “tractor shed” on the side of my garage (workshop) for my tractor and implements (toys). There is a rule about building beyond the principle elevation of the dwelling but our build was turned through 90’ to the original bungalow so it’s arguable which is the principle elevation. Anyway I am going to build it (when I get time) and deal with the planners if I have too! What could possibly go wrong ?.

@Big Jimbo IMO there is nothing stopping you, crack on mate ?

This was part of my planning fiasco with the planners, upshot is the verge is classed as “pedestrian” and historically was used fir horses. Your boundary will be the fence, ditch or hedge. There is a min distance from gate to roadside to enable you to stop your car off the road to open your gate, if your gates are that far back then visibility will not be an issue. Personally I would “crack on” as no one seems to notice (unless you have a stroppy neighbour like I had) but I still won my case at appeal and the planners and neighbour were told I was within my rights ?

Hi and welcome to THE forum. Like others here I have completed a self build and there is a mine of info to be had here. So many complain of new builds by major companies being less than adequate and it’s mainly down to lack of detail, the little things that make a big difference, also building to current building regs is less than “green”. Finding a plot is very difficult In this country and is your first step. Read away and enjoy.

I have just checked the gov guidance and yes the council decide on “small” changes so it looks like they are right. As you said. I don’t think so, if it were me I would crack on and file you’re application I can see no way the council would refuse a smaller build than they originally granted. If BC don’t visit either then who will know?. Why did BC want deep footings? Trees? Why not build on a raft?

is that the case???, I would check that as our planners made all sorts of statements that simply was not true,!! After we won our planning appeal we never saw the planners again so would they notice? It’s only BC that might notice and inform planners.

Just more to go wrong !!! (From a grumpy old Luddite ?‍♂️)

Funnily enough I had problems with my electrics, the builders electrician was very good (and a bit OCD like me) but during second fix one of the rings was “disconnected” (diss) between two sockets and we had to turn them into separate spurs. Just shows that testing stuff before covering it up is invaluable ?

Okeydokey, you mentioned sound proofing? 12.5mm plasterboard is fire rated as 1/2 hour which is standard, sounds like your BCO is fussy so maybe not worth arguing. Watch this U tube vid and the lifter will be a piece of cake https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=how+to+use+a+plasterboard+lifter&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#kpvalbx=_nDOoXqueFuTA8gKo37_YBQ35 It’s the same as I bought then sold on so cost nothing ? https://www.hirestation.co.uk/tool-hire/Lifting/Genie-Lift-Hire/360060/

I agree with @Mr Punter above and it’s just occurred to me if you cut all the roots and branches your side it’s more likely to fall away from your property. I once cut a tree down on our boundary (without the owners permission as he was a big PITA) and desperately tried to get it to fall his side, into a wood but despite straps, ropes etc they all snapped and it fell my side, the reason was the weight of all the foliage was my side as being up against other trees there was hardly any weight his side. Crack on sunshine ?

I had a 200mm cavity built full fill with rockwall batts.

it’s sound block you need but I prefer to double board with 12.5mm board, even more sound absorbency (and easier to do). I only used a Pb lifter recently (after years of struggling) bought it second hand and the job was a doddle on my own and sold it again afterwards fir what I paid for it.

I agree, get MBC back and crack on , if the council get involved point them at the change in law, if your neighbour complains also point them at this new legislation I know it’s not happened yet but by the time the council have to act it will have!!!! You can be too helpful to some people. My (PITA) neighbour complained about me working weekends with my JCB but I have a field next to the site and said I was doing agricultural work on my field clearing ditches which is not building work ?????.

in that case if it were me I would ask him to second fix, where possible, and test before anymore boarding. Blanks can always be in place fir testing purposes. Some may say I am being fussy but peace of mind is worth a lot ( IMO). edit to add First-fix plumbing is essentially the pipework for space heating, water supply and waste water drainage. ... Second- fix plumbing is the connection of the appliances, their testing and commissioning. Appliances include bathroom sanitaryware and radiators, as well as boilers and other equipment. IMO although the above says second fix is connection of appliances, where it is essentially in a void to get covered over I would argue it’s first fix. Ask your plumber to “ humour you” and connect and test hidden pipework.

I hate fence panels, but have provided customers with feather edge board fences and IMO they are much better. I like the short concrete post to bolt a wooden post too! You’re not stuck with 6’ modules and your posts don’t have to be exactly 6’ apart. ( but vertical!). Once the posts and rails are fitted you can fit whatever you ( the missus) likes to the face?

Are you paying a plumber to “ second fix”? If so just point out they will be responsible for any damage if it leaks ( might make them try harder?)

have you plastered it yet?if not perhaps best not, much easier to chop a bit of plasterboard out before plastering , you can tell a slight weep with a dry finger on the joint if you test it with water, but this may take months to show through a plastered ceiling ?

This could well end up in the local news. DONT DO IT WITHOUT PROFESSIONAL ADVICE.

not sure about that but I water tested all my plumbing before boarding simply fir peace of mind, I really did not fancy having to rip out anything to find a possible leak ?

Personally I would want to fix everything and test with water before boarding over.

not sure I will live long enough to enjoy them but it’s on the ( extensive) “to do” list along with meadows flowers true but I am a believer in building on brown field sites, perhaps the gov could incentivise with tax breaks or help in clear up costs? right, I am off to a neighbours with my (now working) dumper to help him shift logs in his ancient oak woodlands ( can’t find a jealous emoji)

My wife and I have different views on planning permissions, her worry is that there are not enough local services ( doctors, schools jobs etc etc) in remote places, but my view is if a small plot is not being used for agricultural use ( grazing animals or growing foodstuffs) and someone wants to build an “appropriate” home and accepts their remote location then why not. I believe rural communities either expand and thrive or dwindle and die. If we wait fir services to expand it will never happen, we have more chance that in a thriving location the services will follow. edit to add, I would love to live in a cabin in the woods. Ben Law is my all time hero.

along with part of next door with no house insurance?. Like @Jeremy Harris and others on here I like DIYing whatever I can BUT this is something only professionals can advise you on.

Yup, our planners did it ( about the only thing they got right ?)

oh yes, rings were knackered =no compression, glaze busted the bore ( which was not too bad) new rings, and lapped the valves in. Was surprised the injector was ok, pitted with rust and seized into the head but the spray pattern was good. Straightened a few bent bits and it started first turn !!!!!! It lives again ?