joe90

In your original post you said. “On top of this we added a staircase and converted the loft room (including a toilet) “ So did “you” do it or did you get someone to do it, surely you can remember “how” you did it?, new flooring joists? What size?, how much insulation? Etc etc. As you want to re mortgage I think you need to get this sorted if only fir piece of mind. I still say a loft conversion company will put you right regarding your situation fir a modest fee. Then you can decide if it’s worth the work (money) or use it as storage.

The orange light is a neon, and they do tend to flicker a bit, but change that switch or take it off and make sure the screws holding the wires are tight, there is a fair bit of current through those things.

That should not make any difference, if you paid fir it you must give the installers the first opportunity to rectify it, but if it’s not working (fit fir purpose) you should not have to put up with it. If you bought a car but found it would only do 20mph would you put up with it?.

Rather than a surveyor or structural engineer personally I would try to find a good local loft conversion company (check for good reviews) they will be up to speed on all things “loft”, structural, insulation etc etc. He will probably need to cut into the floor, walls etc to see what’s there.

Sorry to hear that, it has been a nightmare for you, I still say “it’s not fit fir purpose” others have said it’s undersized, let them fit the two new boards BUT unless it’s FULLY acceptable to you after that then demand it’s all ripped out. Contact the funding agent and give them a warts and all account of what you have had to put up with. There are many on here that could work out your heat load, what sized radiators and what boiler will give you what you require, chin up.

Great, please report back on his findings and comments (fir future questions on this subject).

yes (well I did ours!!,).

Welcome, I built ours in brick and block and despite some opinions is very airtight due to attention to detail and well insulated. Brick needs no maintenance unlike most other finishes (and I like it). With regard trades, word of mouth!, it’s never too early to get reviews from people regarding this. A good review or two is worth more than all the adverts in the world. I cannot recommend our builder and his trades enough, they were brilliant (but too far from you). Bear in mind good trades usually have a long lead time so planning is important looking forward to questions and pics.

if that’s the case it will not pass even if it was done to regs a few years ago. I concur, professional advise required.

but what standards? These have been rising over the years so which standard applies as we don’t know when it was converted ?

After a friend of mine had so much trouble (leaks) with an old iron water pipe I would go right back to the water meter, job done, and piece of mind.

Glad this has been sorted, @ProDave try not to gloat when you tell your BCO, it tends to upset them ?

Why not go on Ebay, gumtree, social media and buy a couple of empty 19kg bottles (I have a couple of butane ones you can have if you care to collect them, ?????).

Glad I didn’t bother to watch any episodes.

I hope so, mine is ?. Don’t see why not, no mention of electrical devices on the regs above (and my BCO didn’t raise an eyebrow).

How about 0800 626 626 (Calor customer services) ?

Here is the “contact us with a query “ page. https://www.calorgas.ie/support

I think I am more stubborn than you ? I would quote the Calor site to him about sealed openings which is what you have, if you contact Calor they may even confirm it in an Email fir you???

why bother, just use 19kg (like I do) then swop them after BC chap is long gone (I still say he is wrong).

I would just argue that the regs say “opening window “ yours is not (and the calor website confirms this).

1200 x 750. 1200 x 1850 fixed glass panel and 300 flipper hung on the end of 1200 glass.

I disagree, otherwise it would have said “window”, not “opening window “ I found this on the Calor website... “There should be no openings into buildings, cellars or pits within 2m of an LPG storage area or the separation distance given in Table 1, whichever is greater. If there is an unavoidable opening within 2m, the opening should be securely covered and fitted with a suitable water seal to prevent the entry of vapour.” it’s all about vapour entering the building and a non opening window is effectively a water seal as above IMO. Tell your BC chap you got this from Calor! ?

I also made my adjustable dampers at the manifold end as Jeremy found if in the plenum when wound down it caused noise in itself.

Both of ours are 1200 x 750 with a 300mm flipper (across the 750 width) and plenty of access room, I would not want shorter than 1200 without a door/curtain otherwise the floor will get wet IMO.

That is what I used but 25mm, I also made a baffle with it so no “line of sight” between in and out pipes.?