joe90

My floor was glued only (D4) to joists and themselves, very solid, no squeaks In 2 years.

You only buy insulation once so why not make it a lot and build right/tight. I am having second thoughts about PV now I can diy instal like @ProDave at a much lower cost and time high loads to the middle of the day. All energy costs are going to rise so let’s see how little we can consume (save the planet/wallet) .

Just compare the roombelow it ?‍♂️

But what are they built on? ?‍♂️

Those “celcon” must be resting on the party wall. Why are you worried they have removed the stacks? Have you decided on floor make up yet? When I did my own loft conversion several houses ago to minimise floor height with an additional floor with joists I did as below (I can’t match your computer aided drawing ?‍♂️) my ceiling was lathe and plaster so I put 1” packers on the wall plate of the middle wall to rest the new joists on, then hang the other ends on joist hangers !

Then what are those blocks resting on?

I think 15 years is a bit optimistic, my builder only uses dry ridge systems (and so did I before retirement).

CAD (crayon assisted drawing ?‍♂️) if you make the distance from top of ceiling joists to top of new 6x2 the thickness of the additional insulation no wasted space. New 6x2 overlap in the middle so no very long timbers to try to get in the loft.

Depends where the membrane is.

+1, I would use 6 x 2 in joist hangers between those two new timbers, another 4x2 on top of ceiling joists on top of dividing wall to support the other 6x2,s which only need to be half the distance.

In our rental I filled the loft with insulation and screwed the loft hatch down and on the rental details specified no access/storage in the loft! Simples.

Like @ProDave I think warm roof like I have is easier to make airtight, and I also didn’t use trusses but a cut roof from i joists full filled with insulation then lined with OSB bubbly glued to create a sealed surface, this insulation extends seamlessly with the same insulation within the cavity ?.

The only thing I dislike about slate is you can’t walk on it like concrete tiles.

I guess it would, pop it right to the top so they have nowhere to nest in (and give it a wiggle if they start ?)

Just a sanding block with 80 grit paper to take the shine of the boards. Seems are flat (after glue scrapped off) and no screws used on my floor, glued only.

Yes we used a pot and the flaunching holds the pot and metal plate in place.

When ours was that wet and the outside RH was high I used de humidifiers (you could get a genny) when it was windy I opened the windows and doors, I ran the UFH with immersion later at a very low temp.

The plate should be cut to sit on the brickwork but not cover it completely, leave enough brickwork around the edge to take the flaunching (cement/Mortor))to secure the pot.

I found the price difference out there is massive, I took a punt and bought all mine (two bathrooms and cloakroom) from a similar “cheap” supplier. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality, BUT after a couple of years a breakdown on the glaze on one toilet has appeared and I will eventually replace it but even if I do it still works out cheaper than many others out there. If you do buy “cheap” just make sure you inspect it “with a fine tooth comb” on delivery.

Nah, go on Jimbo, speak your mind, don’t hold back eh ?

The liner is clamped to the plate to support its weight and is left long enough to let the cap slip inside it, the cap is clamped to the pot with three “legs” and a long jubilee clip around the pot.

My ASHP (kingspan) only heats at one temp, I set that to 48’ to give me a reasonable COP, this heats the DHW tank and a buffer tank fir UFH, giving priority to DHW, THE Tank stat on the buffer is set to 35’ and blended down again on the manifold to 25’. The control unit is soo complicated I don’t use it, just the stats on the tanks and a room stat to call for heat (which runs the pump on the manifold). During the non heating months I simply disconnect( buy a switch) the buffer tank stat so this tank is not heated.

+1, nimbyism

Remember any insulation is much better than none, the first inch gives the biggest benefit and further inches give diminishing results. Yes get 25mm foamed between 50mm rafters leaving a 25mm air gap fully fill vertical studs then add as much insulation over the joists as you can manage without compromising room space then plasterboard/scim this.

Hopefully ?‍♂️