joe90

Yes the French love suppositories. https://southendplumbingllc.com/what-you-need-to-know-about-water-hammer-arrestors/

Not got around to this but putting this before my boiler was suggested by a plumber friend. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sioux-chief-dw660-2j-water-hammer-arrestor-1-2-bsp/1492r Opinions!

I would suggest that this is their alley and their land as it’s outside your red line showing the property boundary, unless your deeds specify you have “right of access”. On another point there is no point in you have an egress window (escape) if you can’t get over their fence 🤷‍♂️

I DO agree with Nick on the above and also using any power tool with no experience can be disastrous/dangerous. I modified my first table saw (small table top) by adding a table top around it giving support before and after the blade. I also invested in stand alone adjustable roller supports for long timber, one in front and one behind 👍

If you are no 28 those plans show the boundary as your (garage?) wall therefore as said above how come you have an opening window into their land? This does not show you have 1m + from the boundary 🤷‍♂️.

The deed should have a “map “ showing boundaries or you need the land registry “map” and the boundary will be in red. https://searchdeeds.co.uk/title-documents?title-plan&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtamlBhD3ARIsAARoaEzF0ro_9uKwOtmtcVAaDLZv31AOTOPygKQeVoTC3ELVi0FAazt2XsMaAsJyEALw_wcB

Every day is a school day (even when you are my age 🥹)

Oh yes strongly carcinogenic and on top of that “train toilets”, but then again your not going to lick or eat them, it’s no wonder they last forever 👍 (it’s what I would use 😎).

This is the whole point, what does your deeds say? Get a copy of the land registry map (I know they are not accurate to the inch/m but enough to show a gap of 1m plus). Then you can challenge your neighbour with documentation.

Yes, we all started somewhere, crack on and enjoy the journey.

I too tend to think far too many properties are listed, yes a few examples for history lessons but far better to allow demolition and control over their replacement to reflect aesthetics.

Unfortunately I disagree with Nick here (the first time I believe!!) I have done woodwork most of my (long) life and with a decent table saw with a fence, cutting can be very accurate, cut 1/2 mm too big then cut that last 1/2mm and you will end up with a surface that with a little sanding will be fine for painting, alternatively cut 1/2mm too big then use a plane electric or manual. If you use the original fixings into the wall you will need to cut both sides but if using new holes just cut one side.

I do have a plane with a forward blade but not that common I know, a sharp chisel and care will do it (still less work than removing the whole frame 🤷‍♂️.

I think you have, although I have found it’s usually the other way round!!. “Most of my door frames are 5-10mm proud of the plastered walls “ you could always plane the door frame down in situ, taking the frame out is overkill IMO. When I fitted my architrave I pinned it to the frame and no nails to the frame, a few mm can be filled by the no nails and acts as a caulk as well.

Glad I left then! It was the Victorian’s fault, they invented the combined sewer.

Well my stair box stairs is very solid and the newel post just sat on the floor with no fixings, the whole staircase holds it in place.

👍

I would tell her to crack on whilst you do something else 😉

Or square!!, I fitted a kitchen for a customer and luckily the units fitted the width exactly (when I measured it) but found the building was so out of square i ended up taking 50mm off the plaster and wall in the corner to get the units in 🤯

Unfortunately I no longer live in a passive house but one that’s fairly well insulated with gas central heating, I have just bought an electric towel radiator for my bathroom as drying a towel or having a warm towel when you get out of the shower is an pleasure I can afford, plus it’s nice to have a bathroom warmer than the house when you get out of a hot shower and even 20’ feels chilly with no clothes on and wet 😳 (it has a timer by the way).

All put to bed now……

Yes large tarp ready, finish is not quite as good as I would have liked or did before with a power float but it’s only a garage, mistake I did make was bringing the dpc up and over the shuttering so unable to get my edging trowel around the edge. I have a concrete grinder disc fir my angle grinder so can always tidy it after it’s set hard. Old chap needs a lie down now 🥱

The easy float does a good job, still trowelling away …..

No time to arrange time lapse photo because concrete arrived an hour early 🤯, still down and tamped, just waiting for the bleed water to evaporate and get on it with an easy float.

Welcome to the Buildhub. I too would consider a demolish and rebuild but if you have made that decision so be it. Is it cavity wall? What size? What insulation will you need to meet regs?, these are all things that renovation is harder than re build!. I would cost both routes first with the advantage of better re sale price in the end. Bring on the questions.