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ToughButterCup

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Everything posted by ToughButterCup

  1. Electricity cable installed today. (with a mole) Now I need a meter. My current supplier (Utility Warehouse) can't supply a meter for free, and helpfully suggested that I look for a company that will supply a meter for free. Anyone know of a company that will install an electricity meter for free? Ian
  2. Cheapest, quickest, easiest. The cheque's in the post @Russell griffiths. Thanks everyone for helping me think this through. Much appreciated..
  3. Wall starter? Whasssar?
  4. Yes; with rebar and all the works, plus newt bridge and built in lighting and built in drainage.
  5. That's a decision, then. @nod, you've been out-voted, mate. (PS, I still owe you half a days labouring.)
  6. Exactly right. I have a two week window in which to get bits and bobs done, and this wall is one of the issues to sort out. The main game is getting the First Fix organised. And I thought a wall would be p1ss easy (given the ICF experience I now have) . I was going to get the wall up and done in an hour or two first thing in the morning and last thing during the day. You know, like normal self-builders who have a full time job and build their houses. But, but, but. The creation of a wall would also give me an outside, but undercover work area that - most importantly - is in a wind shadow.
  7. Just about to build the wall connecting our house to the piggery. The wall has a full-on foundation, piles and all (for which there is no need, but thats another story) This is the junction between the house and the wall. You can see the DPC and radon barrier in the house. The wall hasn't been poured yet. (empty Durisol blocks) You can see the EPS300 butting up to the Durisol block. There's a 100mm + gap to make up the wall to the house DPC level. As it's a garden wall, there's no need for the horizontal DPC is there....? But should I run some DPC vertically between the house and the garden wall?
  8. Hmmm, don't tell me.....I know this one.... eermmmm this customer ..... she's a flamenco dancer Yes?
  9. We're about to pop down to the shops to buy a new double oven. Brief: cheap as sensible (<£300) Current oven outside dimension: (h) 880, (w) 600, (d) 600. Caution makes me ask if anyone knows of any current offers or promotions. Just in case.
  10. @Russell griffiths, its a very slow weep. If I draw my finger across the bottom of the valve, I can see a fine film of water.... (now that I know what to look for )
  11. This place is a mine of information. All I need now is a tame slave to bring me tea and cakes while I botch the system completely this weekend
  12. Yes. But I'm also taking the plumbing bull by the horns (Bit like @jamiehamy) I've been scared of it the whole of my life, but not any more. '... Lockshield valve...' It's just a plain valve isn't it. What does it lock and what does it shield? That looks like fun. (YT research) But I will want to sell our house this spring and its needs to be done pucca. By me Ha! That's exactly what we have, an F&E system (Sound like I know what I'm on about dunnit? ) And the rads were probably 17th hand by the time they were fitted. Looks like an interesting weekend ahead.
  13. Got it in one. Exactly what we are suffering. It's all the rads which are in the old style HEP2O loop. Excellent tenente!
  14. @Onoff, I am almost sure we have been plumbed using what was left rolling around in the back of a plumbers van.
  15. Que? Oxygen barrier?...... Plumber-speak for leak?
  16. Thanks @PeterStarck and @MikeSharp01. It'll be a good exercise for me to replace all of it with HEP20 because I'll be using it in Salamander Cottage. I'll get a new valve too. Another steep learning curve coming this weekend.
  17. Ahhhhha! I'll get me callipers out. Now that's really interesting
  18. What do I want to know? The trade names of the plastic piping: both the white stuff and grey stuff. If you look at the top right of the top right photo, the plastic stuff re-connects to copper piping - but if you look at the radiator that that loop serves, the piping is plastic where it goes into the valve. So for one or two of our radiators on the feed side, the water travels through copper, then plastic, then copper then plastic piping . On the way back it's just plastic. I think our system must have been built by a cobbler, not a plumber.
  19. Hoostun, we have a prablerm. I'll save you the sob story.I need to know what this stuff is. Our local BMW are experts at making me feel like an idiot when I go in and ask for stuff I've never used before. So could you please tell me what this stuff is, please..... It's a loop containing 3 radiators in our central heating system And I think this valve is leaking... What do you think? Any guidance would be most welcome. Ian
  20. Better to travel than to arrive. Well, sounds like you need to start all over again.
  21. She wasn't thaaaaat nice.
  22. Ploughing through the FF (first-fix, first fix) electrics today. Met a very nice lady from a lesser know electrics chain. She likes to say Yesss. Anyway, looking through the catalogue I see Hager do a thing called Klik lighting So, what's more natural than searching BH for reference to it? Nada, nichts, nothing. However, there are some on here who'll know every last detail, every last reason why I should use it, and why not. This is what I was looking at The question is, should I use this system to run my 6A lighting circuits? Ian
  23. Here's the draft checklist for comment 1. Drain runs: must be downhill and straight 2. Spare conduits: draw strings 3. Soil Pipes 4. Copper pipes 5. MVHR runs 6. Hep2O 7. Electrical backing boxes 8. Electricity cable 9. Data and Audio visual: printer, HDMI cables, speaker cables 10. Telephony 11. Socket location 12. Security 13. Fire alarm 14. Normal pipes 15. Door bell 16. Door frames 17. Pocket door frames 18. Stair well: floating / cantilevered? 19. Leave floor boarding unfixed to enable new cables to be fished across 20. Photograph everything, measure and mark with a sharpie as needed ( but not on Plaster Board) and/or take notes. Make allowance for finished floors & walls. 21. Sound insulation 22. Plaster Boarding 23. Support (noggins) for wall hung items such as cupboards, sinks, mirrors, TVs, What have we missed out?
  24. Of one thing you can be certain. They will be in there. If I put a bit of rotten wood in the bottom, they'll tuck in there quite safe and undisturbed. Not like the one that Sid growled at in our living room last week during that warm spell.
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