Russell griffiths

Watch the 1 tonne dumper, they fall over regularly.

Think of all the other jobs you can do get a machine for the week and get all the hedges out and tree stumps and other shite.

You will need some form of insulation to stop the cold bridge through the studs. an easy thing to do would be to look up loads of timberframe house builders, look on their website and find the technical drawings, steal some ideas from there. look up mbc timberframe, copy their twin stud idea and it will be the best extension in the street.

For the planning part I used two different people, not one Architectural technician for the drawings and a planning consultant to get it through planning. if my planning consultant fees had been 10 times more than they were they would still have been worth it.

For anybody doing this in the future, the better method is to cut the plenum tube flush with the plasterboard, then the plasterer will fill the gap when he skims the ceiling.

Tiles don’t stay in place with the adhesive until it sets, you need a support under the tile while the adhesive goes off. either a batten screwed to the wall or work from the workshop upwards a picture would help us understand what you missed out.

Nope.

Pointless post in my opinion your building a house for you and your family, not for anybody on here. our opinion doesn’t matter, do what you feel fits your needs. my house would be no good for 75% of the people on here. we walked around our two previous houses and took measurements and notes on the things we like, what we needed and what we didn’t. our last house the main bedroom and en-suite was 44m totally over the top, this time it’s down to 28m. build it to fit your life, not to get our approval.

Why it unique??

I plan on doing something similar soon. can you simplify it. hip ends will cause you lots of work, hips to construct, then 4 hips to cut the tiles to, then hip tiles im going with gable ends as it simplifies the whole job. you don’t need 150 x150 as a wall plate unless you like the chunky look. I’ve looked at loads of these and an easy way is to notch your uprights and sink in a 50 x200 or something similar and use that as a ring beam around the whole structure. many ways to skin this cat, have you sketched it up.

Who’s job was it to supply fixings if you are supplying all materials then you should have had them on site if it was your joiner then they have deviated from the approved plan so need to change them at their own cost. m8 raw bolts will be available in any merchants.

I would say there isn’t enough room to satisfy parking or amenity land needed for the dwelling.

I’ve also applied a waterproof render behind my stone slips, external stone adhesive then sticks to this.

Subtle details will cost you money, do you have the budget for an architect that will include lots of nice subtle design features. they will look amazing, but this is where your £100,000 overspend goes. just read the rest of the posts, with your budget I think you need to forget the expensive architect immediately.

How far is junction 16 of the M4 from you. nice sawmill there that I get my cedar from. Vastern timber.

Look up level 5 finishing. there are 3-4-5 levels of finish e with 5 being the best. aim for that.

would say it needs a light primer as the easy fill will be very porous, so will suck the plaster dry in that area. probably a diluted coat of pva and skim whilst still wet/ tacky. @nod

No need just get them skimmed and door linings after

I would also look into the hold down fixings, unless it’s on a different drawing, those spit fired nails will not be adequate into trench blocks. needs a hold down strap bolted down and secured to some of the studs.

No final skim coat. Easy fill easy fill light sand mist coat emulsion primer coat fine surface filler mist coat two top coats.

Does that mean you can now rip their septic tank out ?? go on do it. DO IT, DO IT.

Sod them, build what you want, spend a couple of quid more on a good consultant, and less on an architect.

That went sour very quickly

If you use easy fill 60 you can build the areas up in 2-3mm layers, you can also sand it back so you can feather the edges in. make sure you primer the deep dry areas.

I cut my own, stone slips factor in £3-400 for a good machine and a couple of weeks labour.