Russell griffiths

There’s a product called JACKOBOARD it’s an insulation board that can be plastered onto using the right primer. you can get it in multiple thicknesses, if you bought say 20 mm thick you cut it to size and put it in the reveal, give it a thump with your hand and the brackets will leave an imprint in the back side, cut out the imprint and the board will sit over the brackets. you need to talk to the plasterers about correct positioning, to line up with there finished skim. the board can be fixed on with rapid set tile adhesive or a good quality no nails type stuff. just one way to do it.

I would only ever use one directly from the wc, so visable, I’ve seen a few pics of them being attacked by rodents, the theory was they let light through them so a rodent in the pipe thinks it’s an escape route and chews through it. have seen two pictures of this recently on a plumbers talk group. if you are remodelling both bathrooms there must be the chance to chase the soil pipe back to run it in where you need it. ?.

Try Beswick stone in Cirencester. they have a very good selection of stone in store. might not be exactly what you want but worth a look.

I would not be putting any form of flexi waste in a place I can’t get to.

I have used nails on a plastic strip. nearly every nail ends up sinking in with a chunk of plastic jammed under the head, ok on rough work but not on finished article.

Deleted, probably not relevant

The ones I looked at where £7000 ish. I decided against one.

The quarry dig stuff out the ground, they wash it and sell it to builders merchants as sand, gravel, ballast the chances are they have a bagging plant which bags it to sell to wickes and places like that, a good chance they will have a concrete plant either at the quarry or set up a short distance away. they are making double the money if they don’t actually buy in the raw materials, but it comes from their own hole in the ground. if you do a list of 30m ready mix for footings 20m of ready mix for floor slab 40 tonne of type one under floor 20 tonne of screed 10 tonne of bricklaying sand blah blah blah you will get a better price than just being some Joe who just wants some concrete. have a drive about and do some networking. .

That’s about right. have a ring around for that quantity. open an account at the local quarry/ agregate supplier, write a list of everything you will need and ask for prices against your list.

If I was to build mine again I would use a thin render base coat on the entire house, under the cladding and on all the window reveals before fitting windows and cladding.

Get an eps rasp, big flat thing that you rub all over the joins to flatten them, then a stiff broom to take of the loose bits. the base render sticks like shit to a blanket. ,I have actually tried to rip sections off by grabbing the fibre glass mesh, very hard to pull off. if I was building an icf house again I would render the entire house, including window reveals, everything, even areas under cladding, just to protect the eps from stuf and to allow tapes and glue to stick to it.

Triton TT gas and water liquid membrane.

Why. don’t do it crazy idea the correct thin coat system will be cheaper, by the time you factor in the stainless mesh and the screws, then the labour to fix it, then you need a good team to render it flat. the thin coat systems are really flat and accurate and have been purposely designed for eps. sorry silliest idea I’ve heard this week.

I’ve been doing this one 6 years, it’s just like a full time job without any wages. 😂😂

Better off using block n beam with a structural concrete topping, no steel to rust away, nothing to temporarily support while you concrete it.

Isn’t it easier to build it correctly in the first place. seems like a quick fix for a problem that shouldn’t exist

Apart from the joint that connects to the outlet pipe which is solvent welded the rest you access from the top theres not much to maintain just a hair trap to empty and that’s it really.

Most of the weight goes down, your frame should be fixed with straps, not screwed through the frame straps come out the back face and to the timber, then cover in insulation and plasterboard

Sort of, you could bring some insulation down between the door and timber also.

I would set the posts100mm back from the opening, you can then screw a stud to the side facing the door, this could be clad in some form of ridgid foam and then the door fitted, it will provide good fixings for the door and isolate the steel from the frame.

If you live in Dorset then you need to go to the self build centre in Swindon Wiltshire. amazing place that doesn’t get the praise it deserves.

@markharro you can buy a rounded corner bead made purposely for drywall you can also get a bead that goes from round back to square for the skirting junction. look up profile store. if you can imagine it then it’s been made and used, it’s only this country that is stuck in 1886, most of the stuff on there is american made for the drywall business.

just use a good quality no nails type stuff, hold in place with a bit of masking, or stick a couple of pins in it if you have anything to nail to

November the 5th. baked potatoes and a few beers. invite your neighbours 😂😂

Mcalpine traps here as well. all solvent welded.