Russell griffiths

I’ve hidden a svp on the scruffy side of the house, the area that the ASHP sits and the LPG bottles, then another vent near the tank. my Graf tank has no noticeable smell at all. our other septic tanks stink.

Cos it will slide off the hill 😂😂

Would be cheaper to buy an excavator and do the trench yourself.

Bullivants where doing 200 houses a half mile from me, I called the office and they said they wouldn’t do it as it was just not worth moving the kit for a £15,000 job. if your rock drilling I can see that getting very expensive hope the plot was cheap enough to cover this, the design looks awesome, I hate that word😂. But it seems appropriate.

I like the design, exactly what I was thinking. the problem I’ve seen with mini percussion pile rigs is there a bit pathetic, so you end up putting in more piles than is needed to achieve the same goal. I would do an assessment of your access and send it out to a few companies and see what sort of rig they have to fit your site. TBH I can’t see it being a cheap job.

Do you have a pic of the site, and your proposed design.

We used a steel driven pile, piling rig was about the same size as 5 tonne excavator the rest of the kit could be moved with a small 1.5 tonne machine. you might need to do a re design and stop thinking English house and think American or Australian, they build loads on far steeper ground than we have, minimal number of piles with a steel frame rising from these supporting the house. cut the plot into two flat areas and work from them instead of the slope.

The thing to bear in mind is what is the sips sitting on, the load in a cavity wall is normally carried down the inner blockwork, so for your sips to sit on that you then have 200mm to build out to be level with the brickwork. needs a drawing really.

Why brick n block downstairs then, why not sips or timberframe and brick outer. the only thing I can think off is getting all the outer faces to line up.

Disconnect duct from distribution box and blow back towards plenhum.

We built up to the boundary and spoke to our neighbours, they wanted to do something similar but didn’t have the funds yet, I agreed to put in their foundations using my access and they paid the costs for their bit. if I had have built mine first they would have had to do the lot with a shovel and wheelbarrow, it worked out well all round.

Do it yourself it will be under £20,000 mine is 400m, trench took about a week to put in with my own machine. largest cost will be the cable.

Have you had a quote to put electricity in. Oxfordshire Warwickshire border, I can’t believe your that far from a transformer. im on 12 acres and have power on both boundaries there’s obviously a high cost to install, but off grid equipment is not cheap either.

A leaf blower is good for cleaning out the ducts, watch out for the dust that will fly out.

They do steel linings for commercial applications. These are normally not much wider than the door and a small stop, so 60mm wide ish. however if you do a narrow lining then bring plasterboard into the reveal you will get a lot of damage to the corner, door linings and architrave take a fair beating.

I’ve only had this product in my hands for a few minutes, and it felt very firm. the stuff I messed with might not have been the flex version, have they made one more squishy for this sort of application. my opinion would be that it won’t compress down to 89mm. that’s a very expensive insulation option, have you looked at other methods.

What’s the thoughts on Ewi on a cavity wall then. I was under the impression that a cold uninsulated cavity would still be cold no matter what thickness of Ewi is added. so with a cold cavity then isn’t the inner skin still cold. I thought IWI was the go to with a cavity.

As Conner said, nothing on council records will be excepted without trial holes showing what exactly is there.

£1000 per lin metre at the moment I’m led to believe talking to local lads.

Equestrian property is in high demand near me, but if your committed to doing a new build you could be in luck, as a lot that I see people want it all ready to go. fenced paddocks, ménage, tack room. I think you might need to look at older run down bungalows with 3-4 acres, and start from scratch.

I would fix the falling down structures so the footprint looks larger than just the brick part.

I’m getting far better figures on new builds in the last few years than refurbishing. I spent two years doing a complete gut and refit, back to brick everything out, struggled to cover my costs in the end, without drawing any wages on it. never again. maybe it’s area specific, anything by me old in a good plot is just getting flattened.

What sort of insulation levels would a refurbishment of this kind need to comply with building regs. if you take down the outer leaf and extend the cavity to get 100mm of batts inside it then what happens with the wall ties, are they not going to be too short, then what about the lintels, then will this wider wall fit on the footings with the new regs on footing width.

@allthatpebbledash I’m just trying to be a realist your saying a knock down and rebuild will be more expensive, it certainly will be, but how much better will the final product be, and what is the value of a new build versus your refurbishment. get some nice street scene pictures done for you and get them valued, you might be surprised how much the new build comes out at. having spent all my life chopping houses about before I found one to knock down, I will never do a refurbishment again. if it’s been empty two years I can guess what sort of condition it’s in.