Russell griffiths

I’m sure this is what I said. if you put that pool in a reasonably sized room the foundation design will be altered to accommodate side loads imposed on them by not having any soil to retain them. foundations will need to go to a level below the bottom of the pool depth. unless in a very big room.

It’s rough no doubt, so needs a bit of fixing. I would be more concerned over the height difference from corner to corner and from one side to the other. you need some form of rotating laser or just a laser level, set it up un poor light conditions and get a clean stick, go to a corner and put a pencil mark on that stick, go to another corner and see what difference you have. the next bloke carrying on will have a ball ache if your levels are out, trying to get up to the top of doors level all the way around if the bit below dpc is 40mm out will be a pain. all the rough working should have been sorted out long ago. the inside of the cavity is always rough.

Nope that’s proper shite.

I used a 20mm screed to bring the room up to the height of the other rooms and painted it with garage floor paint. the time all the cylinders are in there and water softener and all the other junk, there’s hardly any floor visable.

Waterproofing, drainage, pump, surrounding flooring, extensive ventilation system, extra insulation and vapour control in that room. the list goes on. Obviously every building will be different. the last one I was on the house foundations all had to be changed due to digging a hole that would project further into the ground than the house foundations, so foundation depth needed altering.

@SBMS take your £41,000 and double that by the time your swimming in it. ask @Nickfromwales he’s got a bit of a grasp on these things.

I think we talked about this a while ago, and it was found that the downwards load was so small there was no problem sitting either heavy sliding doors or windows onto eps or xps. the weight divided over the area was tiny.

Mine is clad in timber. my bc said it’s only to stop the spread of fire if you have a second floor, as mine is only single storey, then there’s nobody up stairs to protect.

Do you mean cavity barrier for fire protection. if so we have a letter from bc saying we do not require them as it’s a single storey dwelling with no neighbours. and not near the property boundary.

I’ve used a product called kingspan green gaurd in the 500 kpa spec. why only a thin piece though. I would take it full depth of your insulated raft, so it bears down onto the stone the raft sits on, fully adhered to the outside insulation. bit confused though, if you are covering the insulation in aluminium, then why does the door cill project out so far that you need this support, wouldn’t the door be set further back in the frame. do you have a section drawing showing frame position and cladding location.

too fat or something like that

Could you build a plasterboard box, maybe two layers of board all glued together and insert that behind the dropped ceiling then board straight over them, then when you cut out for your spots you end up inside one of the boxes you made.

You don’t need sand blinding on beam n block. Why would you. you also need to get away from the thoughts of you have a cold house that you heat up quickly. forget that, you have a warm house that is warm all day, you don’t let it cool down and then blast it with heat to get it warm. make it comfortable and keep it like that. if you can’t get your head around that, or you think the house won’t work like that then put in radiators if you want a sudden burst of heat into the room. a 75mm screed acts like a big heat emitter, it releases heat nice and steady, you can’t ask it to suddenly chuck loads of heat into the room.

If your a carpenter and fairly handy you can do it, you will need a few specific tools but only hand tools so £150 will cover it. loads of instructional drawings about if you hunt for them. I think green coat is the actual steel coated product. this is then used by various manufacturers and bent up to their specific sheet style.

Do you really want the glazed gable. they look pretty on paper, but unless that is a very deep room you won’t be able to stand back far enough to appreciate it. I have lots of glass and could definitely get rid of 20% of it and not notice the difference.

Building control I meant.

PUT YOUR PRICES UP LAD. Has always served me well.

Usual practice is to have a service batten and fit low profile lights, there are lots that fit in a 40mm void. but every build is a bit different. you might need to build boxes. you could paint them with an airtight paint, so you only need to tape to the edges.

You probably need to do a bit of this and a bit of that. your airtight layer needs to be continuous if those beams are on display can you not continue the airtight layer above the beams. do you have a layer of plasterboard sitting on top of those beams. a sketch of what you have is probably a better idea. you might need to build some boxes around the light fixtures.

Give us a picture.

You need to stop thinking that BC will pick up any problems, they are only looking at the very few items that need to comply. so they check a damp course is installed, but don’t really comment if it’s a sub standard job, as long as it passes a standard that’s it, not a good standard. after your up to damp course level you won’t see them again for a while. you really need to get to grips with the next stages and what is right and what is wrong, before you go up any further.

Some lenders don’t like the idea. will you need a mortgage, or if you ever sell it.

Hire a floor cutter and cut it into 600x600 squares.

Tell the fencers what is there and you suggest they bring a petrol disc cutter they can plunge it 75mm deep in the ground and cut through the wire as one of them applies a bit of tension to it.

There’s two blokes on here who have done that configuration with I joists. @Gone Westand @Patrick patrick isn’t on here much as he’s building up his empire.