Russell griffiths

Your bead is too big before you hit it with the Cramer tool. I bet you’re picking up a lot of wastage on the tool. smaller bead push firmer with the tool lots of wet wipes.

Morning I’m in Cirencester first question. Why electric showers. would be my last choice, unvented cylinder and nice thermostatic mixer shower will provide good shower pressure and loads of hot water.

The wife has just finished our vat claim i will see your 161 invoices @Benpointer and raise you 1057 invoices anybody had a larger amount than this.

I’m not sure I get what you want. you get a self build insurance for the new build and keep your original house insurance on the original house. what has the building work in the back garden got to do with the original house. are you splitting it into two plots ?

If I was pouring a slab in this weather I would have rolls of hessian stacking in an old bathtub of water, an hour after the final trowel up i would cover the slab in the damp hessian. the picture is just ring beams, but it was 28 degrees and the hessian cost pennies compared to the cost of the concrete the pump and the labour. cheap insurance really.

Imagine concrete but the aggregate is like pumice or volcanic stone, very hard but lightweight. they use it a lot in void filling after pipeline work. it can be cheaper and easier to muck away everything that comes out of a trench and import in all the backfill because it doesn’t need compacting, it just pours and forms into all the irregular shapes of the hole.

I thought there are a few void fillers that don’t need compacting and are very light and can be pumped. the days of barrows and compacting in layers has gone for these large fills.

If you have lots of glazing I would not be looking at the lower end price wise.

I like your idea, pumped in from outside, leave it 300 mm below the floor level then break out the floor and remove then insulation and a concrete slab on top.

I don’t know what build method you are proposing, but if it’s a new house and you have failed the sap then you need to go back to the beginning and start again because something is very wrong. you either have an architect who thinks it’s 1960 or you have chosen a poor build method, How are you thinking of building this thing. please don’t say brick n block with 100mm cavity and 75mm mineral wool insulation. we all started somewhere, c’ mon show us what you got.

IMHO it’s 6 foot without planning.

I was recommended a screed company, I was told they are absolutely shit hot, I met the main man and he knew what he was talking about, I asked about screed curl at the edges and covering the screed to slow down evaporation. he said it wasn’t necessary. so I did some more reading and asked a few questions. they did the screed, an hour after they had gone I hosed it down with a very fine mist spray, I then covered it in polythene and also covered all the windows to stop the sunlight coming in. the result is I have the flattest most level screed I’ve ever seen. you need to satisfy yourself how it should be done, and any short comings in your opinion you need to make up. buy the polythene and install it yourself or do you due diligence and insist on a curing agent. if you think they are good why do they not want to cover it ?

Who cares, you’re not going to stand on them contemplating. you run up and down going from a to b.

Sheet of plywood cut to the cover size, 110mm pipe in the top, allow a bit of wiggle room to slide ply out and give it a hose.

Depends what you want to do with it, I bet if you visited ten Victorian terraced houses in that road they would all be the same, unless there’s some large trees near this one I would think it’s fairly standard. have a good look outside, are the tops of the windows level, what about window cills, on the wonk, the benefit of a terrace is it’s held up on both sides. have a look at the neighbours houses, any movement ? you need to remember there will be very little in the way of foundations under this place. walk along the street look for signs of men working, maybe carrying out a full refurb, ask to look in it, talk to the builders, what did they find when they stripped it out. are you going for the full strip out and re build ? if it’s been in the same ownership for 60 years it will probably need it, are you prepared for this or do you just want to wall paper over them.

Wera do a pz2 bit that has a collar on the bit holder so you can’t sink them in past flush.

You could build in a rigid plastic duct for the heat pump pipes, make sure you get the correct diameter insulation around the pipes so you get the correct size duct. but then what happens when the heat pump installer doesn’t like the location, unless you are getting him involved now to give you the location then just core drill them out, you won’t see the holes as the amount of insulation around the pipes is huge. the only thing you mentioned that it’s worth building in would be the MVHR ducts, pick up the exhaust and fresh ducts and build them in. you will still need to fit a collar or tape them to your vapour control layer as mortar will shrink back and leave a gap.

Got a picture.

Ffs the top floor windows are wrong as well. how can somebody have the knowledge to replace a lintel and not follow the brick bond. baffles me.

I would start with getting the bricks replaced under those windows, it’s been incorrectly bonded.

Get a bloke out with a drain camera.

I would build an aluminium and steel pergola thing with either a retractable roof or an opening roof. alternatively a large couple of shade sails that you remove in October time to get some winter solar gain. get on chat gpt and see what they think.

Remember as well both the lads answering on here with a stove are up in Scotland.

If there’s no solids going down it I don’t believe it needs to be 110mm pipe, you could drop to the 80mm version or even 50mm depending on run length and rodding access. I would go with hiding a smaller diameter pipe in the insulation level, insulate all around the pipe and put a chicken wire reinforcement over the pipe in the screed.