Russell griffiths

We have been given a bit of leeway with one of ours as it is higher than 1100mm from the floor, bco has stated due to the amount of furniture in the room egress through the windows could be gained easily by using a piece of furniture to stand on.

Not a chance it has to be an openable window. i would not fancy your chances smashing triple glazed windows with the outer pain in laminated glass.

Bang an outside frosti tap above it and it won’t look like it’s out of place then.

Is doesn’t matter how big the gutter is if you don’t have enough outlets. every 6m is the regs in Australia due to rainfall, we should be looking at that as a standard.

Where’s the pipework, that might dictate what you do, are you going to chop into that wall or build a stud wall in front of it.

Far to thin, I have used them under my soffits where I needed to pack them down a bit, I would not use them on a facade. not enough meat for the screws to grab hold of.

What’s the bottle gulley for ? pipe down through floor and connect into a chamber. the only reason for the bottle gully would be if you had an outside tap positioned above it.

There’s a big difference between expansion joint and a movement joint. what sort of area are you talking about, I have probably 50-60 m in one area with no expansion joints, but I do have 3-4 movement joints where the large area joins thin smaller areas. I was always told that was the place cracks would occur. imagine the shape of a tennis racket, it will always crack where the head joins the handle. I also have movement joints in every doorway.

Woodpecker ate my bloody facia board, !!

Where is your technical drawing showing the location of your airtight layer. is it showing the vcl at ceiling level or roof level. you need to imagine and show the roofer/ builder an image of a continuous line around the whole property with no gaps or breaks in it. from ground floor to roofline a continuous air barrier.

Use a waterless trap then you don’t need to be home. im as crazy as you, see pic.

If you own a plot you should have self build insurance from the day you purchased the plot if someone walks on to your plot(even if not invited) and hurts themselves you could potentially be liable. take out a self build policy and check it covers you for demolition.

Get it fully scaffolded, strip the roof, clear polythene sheet over it, use clear as it’s easier to see the timber work underneath for doing the alterations.

Mine is like this.

Roll of plastic up the front of the house, 2 cubic metres of weak concrete build the ramp to spec, get it signed off pull the ramp out and chuck it in a skip. pain in the arse, but I completely don’t agree with these regs so just work around it.

The rough work should be underground, by the time he’s at dpc I would want it within 5mm from corner to corner. so if you have a box one corner can go down 5mm and then up to the other corner, I don’t mean it progresses down or up around the building until he is 20 mm out. 5mm overall. why don’t you put a stake in with dpc marked on it at every corner. he should work from that height down not from the concrete up.

Who’s Harvey milk. ??

You say diy project does that mean you are laying the screed, what sort of area do you have.

You can get an air driven de nailer you need a compressor, it punches the nail back through in one quick motion.

If you stood 3 feet away from mine you would not know it’s running, you have to actually put your hand in front of the fan to feel the air blowing.

I’ve got to say it. THAT REALLY IS A BIT GAY.

Hold the chunk of timber up to the ceiling on a couple of props measure up from floor both ends and mark the timber use a block of timber to scribe the ceiling contour on to your length of timber plane it to fit.

Keep it wet, keep the u bend completely full, if you let the air get to it it will harden. get a piece of 15 mm hep 2 pipe and ram it around the trap, back and forth take detailed timing of how long this takes and charge the flooring contractor you really are attracting some muppets.

Why not use a thicker board 25mm and carve the back out to match the stone work.

Bond it on with spray foam, then when it has gone off squirt more foam in the voids, I would not go thinner than 12mm too floppy.