Russell griffiths

I’m not sure i would be looking in the merchants you have a few things going on here you had a post asking how to get a certain mortar colour, and this is mainly down to quality tradesmen getting the local Joe who slashes up an extension every week is not the man I would want. for a whole hose with multiple openings I would want a quality team. cheap n cheerful is not what i would want.

In that case you will need a full depth of joist box all taped up. make them bigger than needed.

Twin stud wall, full fill with rockwool type insulation, take the insulation down between the steels also. long straps from 3 courses of blockwork down to timber studs. thar ridge beam will need a fair bit of insulation around it too.

Aluminium profile 2mm thick, powder coated to your choice of colour. stuck down

Show us a picture of the build, your times seam woefully low.

You want to go and look at it, it’s like you gave a load of school kids some crayons and said draw me a load of houses. 😂😂

2mm is far too thick to diy bend without the correct gear, either get some thinner material or just buy a pre bent piece. Most roof materials are well under 1mm the only thing I have in metal thicker than 1mm are the window cills and they are probably only 1.5mm.

Exactly this I had my planning granted the SAME day I took the plans into the council.

After living in Australia this is a common thing over there. a large plot of land is divided into a few dozen house plots, the local companies come in and buy and build their design house on that plot, punters then visit at the weekend and walk around all the show houses. you pick a builder you like and commission them to build on a plot you have or they will have other plots on other sites. I really hate the English way of a divided up estate all built by the same contractor in the same boring design to the same poor standard.

Remember your smoke alarms, you would need power to them and inter linked to the other alarms, add in a conduit to pull the cables through somehow.

Can you not cover it in pvc trim the same as the windows, it will take up about 8mm.

Why do you have a steel lintel on show, shouldn’t it have a trim over it.

Your not going to drill a 210 mm hole with a hole saw definitely a jigsaw job as John said fit ply mark centre point for duct drill centre hole with a slight fall remove ply and trace outline of duct cut out hole in ply draw around off cut of ply on the pro passive cut out pro passive draw around cut out of ply on outer layer of truss cut out outer layer Fit duct and seal up well fit ply and seal up well. or leave the duct loose until you are ready for the mvhr. I would always cut the holes larger as I like a good squirt of illbruck foam around everything

That’s the good thing about the fermacel boards, no skimming needed, just fill the screw holes and paint.

I’m going to say this is such a horrible job to do that you will end up doing it badly if done badly with air gaps then you might as well not do it. I would do room by room take the skirting off, lift the floor, re fit floor re fit skirting and then re decorate each room.

Plant room 18mm ply direct to the walls then 2.4x1.2 sheets of fermacel jointed using their joint stick, then two good coats of eggshell paint. all the plumbers handprints and pencil marks wash off easily or a quick touch up and there gone. this is what I did. I cannot believe the amount of unpainted walls in plant rooms I see on here that then have ufh manifold fitted and tanks put in place before the walls are painted looks totally rubbish.

If you want an insulated board for window reveals then the cement faced xps has been used by a few on here myself included, I called up one of the technical depts and found out the need for the primer.

The cement faced xps board required a specific primer before skimming.

I had two different lads do two rooms both I wasn’t happy with the finish. in the end I had a recommendation from a lad on here, I used the bloke he recommended and he has since gone on and done another buildhub members house. £4 a metre gets you a site plasterer, smash and dash lots of work for the decorators. mine came in around £6 when I added it up, I could see an awkward layout or high ceilings costing a bit more. I seam to recall a conversation with him about £10 a metre for high quality pain in the arse stuff.

Ask your rendering team to take you and show you how they normally finish this area, have a look and see if it fits in with what you’re after. I used the coloured trims and I think it’s very neat, but it takes a good man to run the render up to them neatly. the trims do have a tear off strip that protects the windows while they are being rendered.

Look on Facebook, normally a few sets on there knocking around for half what your quoting, will sell for same money at end.

Don’t you have 6 months to put your vat claim in after bc sign off, so six months after sign off.

Nope. I poured 27 cubic metres on our first pour with me and one helper. there was the owner operator of the pump working that, then just two of us using the vibrator and checking it was all plumb. Icf is very diy friendly your not pouring a flat house floor that needs to be within 3-5 mm tolerance your pouring wet concrete inside form work that you have already plumbed up theres a good few on this forum that have done their own icf including the pours.

Well the concrete comes in a ready mix truck, and you need to hire a pump to get it up to the top of the wall, but that’s about it. like saying you can’t put a timberframe up yourself because you haven’t got a crane.