Russell griffiths

So as they swing out and along they put a load on the edge in a sort of pulling motion ? is that what you mean.

I’ve just re read your original post, I thought you were proposing to build a beam 178mm high, which I based my answer on, but looking again your saying plate both sides in ply 600mm high. Now that would work. I would want to extend the plywood onto both side walls, not finish the ends level with the sides of the opening.

You won’t be spanning four metres with timber alone. with that wall above it will definitely deflect too much. steel flitch beams or some sort of steel beam with insulation and timber all sandwiched together.

What am I missing here. I see no need to fireproof the framing, you wouldn’t fire proof the frame of a house, so why a garage. timberframe as the structural part, steel sheets on the outside as non flammable exterior, then if you wanted you could put cement sheets on the the inside. but being as it’s in jock land what do they want.

What score do they say they will achieve with the airtightness test.

Nope. most of those hangers rely on having brick work above them to secure them to the wall. you need to sketch up what you think your verge detail will be, you say no soffit but you will have a small drip edge coming down from your roof finish. This needs to be on the outside of the render. I think Nick mentioned oversailing the top cord of the joists. this is an easy way of not having to fit a rim board/ pole plate. fit a wall plate cut at an angle then top hang the rafters/ joists. Infill between them with noggins then sail over your ply / osb, then roof trim will hang down and cover the ends of the rafters and ply. get your crayons out and sketch up what you want it to look like.

I’ve had a few of these, fairly straightforward to put up with one helper.

Steel frame agricultural barn type thing. steel c sections bolt to the slab, clad on the outside so non flammable construction, insulation on the inside and then osb clad on the inside. im not sure of any regs for a garage apart from fire regulations close to other properties. as far as I’m aware there are very few regs for a garage. I would get the detailed drawings from the agricultural barn company and send that to the council.

Why would you build a permanent structure on land that is leased, unless you have a long lease. Does your lease state that you have to put the structure back to the state it was before you built, meaning you will need to remove your garage. depending on what you want to put in the garage maybe a shipping container or pre fabricated sectional garage would be better.

Does it need filling.

Remember if you take this up In block work you need to treat it like a gable wall. so angled ties at ceiling joists level, then more ties at rafter level. the ties stop the wall bowing out and restrain the ceiling and roof rafters, it all works together. with the icf walls you have done there wasn’t such a need as the structure is very rigid and stiff on its own, a block cavity wall can be a bit wobbly.

It wouldn’t as you would have a cavity all the way to the floor. and being an open carport I presume a bit of moisture will quickly dry out if there’s a bit of breeze to blow through it.

You will also need a substantial way of keeping any moisture from behind the render board running backwards into the structure I would use a wide dpc from the top of the ceiling joists downwards to create a tray damp to deflect any moisture outwards.

If render is your preferred finish why are you changing from brick to timber. wouldn’t it be more straightforward to continue up in a concrete block and render that. If you are happier in timber then i w put a dpc on top of the wall, then a treated sole plate first, use this to span the cavity and close the cavity in one go. then ceiling joists on top of sole plate, put noggins between joists and then another sole plate on top of joists then stud wall up from there. you want an angled top plate, or a flat top plate then an angled trimmer to take the metal web roof timbers. that’s a shit drawing.

Before you start any ideas about drilling into this wall you need to actually figure out what the problem is. start by clearing the top area and all that growth that is obstructing you getting a clear understanding of what is going on. it is clear from the picture that the water is running over the top of the wall, it should not be, so figure that out before knee jerking and drilling holes in an otherwise perfectly good retaining wall.

Why do you think it needs reinforcement the weight of the tiles is determined by what base board you fix too, not the stud strength, do you have a picture of it. unless it’s been butchered before it’s probably strong enough. you could add extra noggins into areas that will have fixings, or you could sheet it with plywood before you board it.

Looking at that bigger picture then the land at the top of the retaining wall has been built up too high in my opinion allowing the water to naturally drain off the top and down the face of the wall. get up the top with some gardening tools and cut back all the crap on the fence, scrape back any soil and sit and watch, I bet the mucky area in the corner is the natural run off from above. I would want a drainage channel or a sort of spoon drain up top to prevent pooling water up there running down the face. sort that bit first. the cracks I’m afraid will be very expensive to fix and I would live with them for the minute the small hole has not been filled since the wall was built and is just an easy escape route for water that is behind the wall. sort the top first then let’s see what happens. get a pressure washer on that corner so it’s clean and you can monitor it.

Yes, and re, pointing the original section at the same time the new section is pointed would at least get the pointing to match.

You can definitely replace a section, but no matter how good a bricklayer you find it will always look like a new panel. even if you find the exact brick match the original wall would have aged over time. depends if you can stand seeing a different colour section or if you have the funds to replace the lot.

It’s a concrete poured wall not blockwork.

Why strip the icf, block of compac foam glued to icf, resting hard down onto beam n block. dpm lays on beam n block, folds up face of compac foam and laps onto dpc under door or use liquid dpm on door threshold, bring dpm up from the floor and tape onto liquid dpm.

Looking at your other post have you actually had this built or have you bought an unfinished project ? look at the financial aspect here you might be better re doing some of the work to make moving forward easier and you will end up with a better overall product, instead of coming back in a year asking why your new house is cold.

Come straight up from the block n beam with the compacfoam generous amount of squirty glue onto the icf if you still don’t think this is enough then resin bond a few threaded rods into the icf core and bolt through the compound foam.

The car crash one is an important one as it’s a double joist. get him to install a bolt in the wall in the right bloody location 🤦🏻‍♂️ then sink the nuts in on the wonky ones so they are flush, then re fit the joist hangers correctly Fark me it’s not that hard. why are the bolts at a stupid angle.

They do leak they are the work of the devil, try not to use them, trying to tighten the ring with wet dirty hands is hard work.