Russell griffiths

What’s to stop you dropping the 100mm insulation between the top chords of the posi’s then putting 100mm over the top foam the bottom 100mm to the pos’s then a bit of further details from below, foam all gaps to the walls with illbruck foam, not the cheap nasty open cell stuff.

This is not the same situation. new build, not a 1930’s semi that needs the airflow through the roof space.

What do you mean by the dry type will take a lot longer. wet self leveling stuff they will be done in 2-3 hours, dry traditional they will be done in one day. hardly much longer. drying time will be longer, with traditional you will need to stay off it for a couple of days if it had an inhibitor in it when laid.

What don’t you like, I’ve recently been on a job where it’s been used in a flat roof situation condensation risk done, no problem whatsoever.

I do not lend anything or borrow anything.

Have you considered closed cell spray foam sprayed to the underside of the osb, whithin the webs of the posi joist 50mm pir on top of joist and 150 spray foam inbetween. very little height build up then. your box gutter shape needs changing to vertical sides, with no horizontal epdm stuck under that parapet.

As John said. Unless a habitable room above then no fire protection needed. the timber however would need a treatment to stop the spread of flame. so a treatment so a fire will not roll across the ceiling and spread to another area.

You can’t ask this question here and get an answer that will fit you. there are people doing a bit of painting and saying they built their own house, then there’s people actually on the roof fitting all the slates, then there’s people doing everything from foundations to the roof. you can build whatever you want, your budget is easily achievable, but don’t think it will happen quickly, you will need to do loads yourself. building a kitchen is not loads and will save you ten grand. doing a bit of painting will save you a couple. you will need to be very much hands on to achieve what you want.

Go cheaper and spend a couple of grand on the shed. but don’t be thinking 8 foot by 6 foot. a proper building. looking at another shed I have on site it needs to be a minimum 3m x 4m

We have an additional shed 4x6m washing machine in it, fridge freezer, kettle and microwave for my lunch so I don’t go indoors covered in muck, small fridge and toaster, we also have an outdoor toilet. I leave our cabin at 8 in the morning and don’t need to go back into it all day, so muck stays out and cabin is a nice place to live in. water and electric you can run anywhere, poo pipe will need thinking about a bit more. make this comfortable with a little patio and chairs outside, I bet you any money you want you will be living in it longer than you think.

Larry’s videos are all pre cls just 2baaa4 and 2baaaaa6 😉

I think you need to stop and start a new thread on how to fix everything there. in your original post it was pointed out the poor design and cold bridge, as I thought you had already built this I didn’t bother pushing it. now seeing that picture it shows the cold bridge is still there and you are in a position to fix it. and being that the block has just cracked it will give you chance to fix that bit as well your door needs to sit on a layer of some form of insulation, you then need insulation up the front insulating the front and leaving the doors sitting on that block work you are asking to have a drippy wet internal cill. take a wider angle picture or a drawing showing your external insulation added.

Didn’t look at the cill. do you need a drainage channel, is there not a porch roof or something above the door, I would only have the channel if you think you will be getting a fair amount of water there.

Put the drill back in and chew the rawl plug up. go and buy a bigger better quality plug. look at the fisher fixing ones.

Yep that works.

I noticed this post earlier but didn’t want to comment in case it came over too negative john is right in your cold bridge. TBH that is a terrible design and you will suffer with bad condensation on the steel and the bottom of the glass. look at johns latest post and try and relate that to the rest of the design. anywhere you have a path for cold to come into contact with warm will be a place for condensation to form. you need to isolate all cold parts of the build, foundations, exterior walls, roof junctions.

My norrsken ones are 1500 high.

Foot traffic do nothing vehicle traffic dig down both sides and cover with 100mm concrete capping, ensuring its wide enough to spread the load.

In my mind the epdm must lap over the parapets completely, not up the face, not half way across. then get a full aluminium/ steel powder coated capping that covers the parapet and down both sides. lift your cladding slightly higher so the aluminium/steel trim hangs lower or you will see a gap.

As mark said, it’s the wall thickness that will decide the weight 25 x25 x5mm. Will be heavier than 30x30x1mm wall thickness have a think how it’s being welded this might guide you choice of wall thickness. 1.5mm isn’t a bad place to start. remember we have seen your welding previously. 😂😂😂

The timber idea is terrible use something appropriate for sitting down there, compac foam or plastic angle. why can you not use the fibreglass angle. if your drawing is correct you already have a big thermal bridge from the blocks to the floor

Why not icf, very diy friendly, build it on your own apart from pour day. only block the road on pour day for 4-5 hours. or as I said previously I joist stick built and pumped in insulation. as far as I’m aware using sips you will need to add further insulation somewhere either external or internal, there’s many ways to do this, don’t get stuck on one method without exploring the others.

I have never seen a site with such bad access as @Patrick, he built on site using I joist and filled with blown in insulation. maybe he could share some pics.

That 600mm depth is nonsense, you can run drains as shallow as they need to be, as long as they are bedded correctly for the depth you are using and covered correctly to add the level of protection needed. if most places started at 600mm down as they leave the house you could be metres below ground by the time they reach the destination. you still haven’t provided a picture so we are all guessing here. pipe can sit 30-40 mm above the footing and enter the house via a hole left in the brickwork with a lintel over the top. your builder should know all this it’s fairly standard. put a picture up.

The thing with 68mm studwork that I don’t think people think about is running services putting a cable through the centre of a stud puts it only 30mm from the surface, which as far as I’m aware isn’t deep enough to keep it the recommended 50mm in to give it half a chance of not being screwed through. im aware it should be in a safe zone, but good practice and all that stuff. 68 for wardrobe walls and anything non important 89 for dividing walls.