Russell griffiths

I’m not sure exactly what you have drawn there, but none of it complies with any regs, all those blue lines need to end up in some form of inspection chamber or gulley that is accessible for unblocking purposes.

I’m not sure I fully understand, do you mean on the outstanding conditions ? this was back in 2018 so it’s a bit vague now.

@Lewis88 follow what has been drawn up by sbms, that’s probably one of the most clearly laid out drawings you could want.

LA

What’s all the osb for.

It was getting to summer and I was keen to start, so I asked our local bc if I could do a phased building regs submission. they said yes. so I submitted the drawings for piling and ringbeam design from the structural engineer, while we were getting the piles in we asked for a list of stuff bc wanted. very little in fact, sap assessment was the one they really wanted, the rest was just loads of drawings forwarded from other designers. structural design for roof timbers. structural design for all lintels and steel work structural design for block n beam. we had the house up to wall plate level before we had submitted everything. we also had a couple of conditions relating to cladding choices and stone, I told them that I could start building because these conditions didn’t effect the construction of the house it was only the outside facade, we got these signed off a few weeks before we placed the orders for the materials.

Attic trusses craned into place. insulated between and over the top with some form of semi rigid insulation, not pir, it’s a nightmare to fit and offers very little in the way of sound absorption.

Norrsken. in Bournemouth.

Fark me. the human race baffles me more every day.

What exactly do you want to achieve vaulted ceilings to the bedrooms, or 1-1/2 storey with room in roof. some context needed really as to why you wanted a sips roof.

I was going to suggest that, but thought it was dicing with death.

Get a laser level.

That’s the plaster, normally 12-15mm thick. the plumber hasn’t used a long enough screw, so it hasn’t reached the blocks/ bricks properly. will need taking off at the valves and the radiator laid down then the brackets re fixing.

If you can add a service cavity then do it, these speed you can add services is brilliant and will save money on trades chasing and filling in chases. if you use the correct size batten you can get a back box to line up nicely with the front face of your boards. the board system you state sounds like it will give you a flatter wall, whereas the clay might look more traditionally lumpy bumpy. My plasterer has just installed some clay finish plaster that you don’t paint, comes in all different colours.

What’s the problem get the forms fill them out, get acknowledgment that it’s all been received from the council, start work.

Our knew planning policy inside out, they even had staff who were ex council planning officers. They knew the planning officer on first name terms, and every time he quoted something she shot him down with a counter argument. is it too late to withdraw your application and get better advice.

Planning consultant architects draw pictures of things.

I looked into sips roof on an icf house and forgot about it because of the spans. sips cannot span very far on their own without intermediate structural timber. you either need large splines of timber between the sips which leads to cold bridging which then needs additional insulation, or you need to put additional purlins at mid span to stop the droop from eaves to ridge, these then project into the room space. I would build a cassette type roof on site using I joists and insulation then osb.

You won’t need to weld it or glue it. most letter boxes come in two parts an inner and an outer all you need to do is work out how to cut the hole. once that is done the inner and outer fix through the door with the supplied screws/ bolts. go and get the letter boxes of your choice and mark the door up. I don’t know what type of door you have so some pics might come in handy when trying to work out how to cut it.

You can use the wood fibre insulation, but you put your sarking boards over the top of it. look up the term warm roof. as long as the little parapet wall is high enough, or you might need to raise it a couple of hundred mm.

How about we don’t actually need more houses, we need less people.

It’s good to see the drain isn’t broken, I think you need to do some more digging untill you find solid ground under there. can you tape your phone on a stick and put it right in there. how long have you lived there, that plastic pipe looks in very good condition, is it newish.

Get more blocks up and do some digging, come back with what you find. It’s all a guess at the moment.

Broken gulley below the rainwater pipe, or broken clay connection. fairly normal to see this. I’ve seen a kitchen extension drop 25mm due to a dripping pipe under a corner. you will need to take up a lot more paving and fix the broken pipe first. then back fill the hole paying great attention to compacting the fill material, or mass fill with concrete. fix the cause of the problem first.

You don’t nail into the wood fibre insulation, you fix through it, so either your sarking boards or counter batten and batten get fixed through the insulation into the rafters, the wood fibre boards just get trapped in position.