Russell griffiths

CONCRETE CAP BECAUSE IM A LUNATIC.

PULL BOX OUT AND BACKFILL.

PUT TANK INSIDE TRENCH BOX AND FILL WITH DRY CONCRETE.

PUT BOX IN HOLE.

DIG BIG HOLE.

No. The tank was placed inside that blue trench box the trench box was lined with plastic sheets to prevent the concrete making a mess of the trench box and me having to power wash it all off. the concrete was placed inside the trench box and vigorously stamped down around the tank. the next day I dismantled the box and pulled it out of the ground. then I back filled the gap the box took up and used a wacker plate to firm it all up.

this is the highest it got probably about 750 below ground level timberbracing on top of the tank to hold it down and keep it all level while concrete was put in

Dig hole, put a semi dry mix of concrete in the bottom, place tank, wiggle into position, fill tank with water, hold tank down with straps or props or whatever you think is appropriate, backfill with wet/ dry concrete as needed. al the above steps will have periods of swearing, wishing you had not started the job,wanting to smash it all up, and thinking the bloke up stairs hates you. I’ve built my entire house save for a couple of bits, and my tank was the singular hardest part of the entire house build. probably all down to water. Dig a test hole to see what you are dealing with. I called on the experience of a man that fits these all day everyday and he gave me some pointers. your water level will indicate exactly how you need to do this job. if I had of had solid clay to put it in I think I could have got the hole dug in a day and filled the next day. the water and extra equipment took another 5 days of endless frustration. but I was quoted £17,000 to do it and in the end it cost me about £7 ish so I saved a grand a day for all the pain and suffering. I even slept in the shed the day the tank went in to keep the pumps filled up with diesel, until the concrete arrived in the morning.

Concrete depends on if you are filling a wet hole or dry hole, I still had water coming in that was being pumped out at the same time, if I turned the pumps off it would be 1m deep in an hour. so concrete was bone dry mix out of a truck that mixes on site, like a kerb mix dry just binding together, I filled the hole burying the pumps and kept them running, I expected them to stall out or blow a fuse, they just kept pumping and I watched the outlet hose, when it slowed down and looked like I was pumping concrete water I turned them off and cut the hose and leads of and carried on filling with dry mix.

side loads can be controlled with good shuttering, pumps are essential, plus a spare pump, and a spare pump for the spare pump. I actually had two submersible pumps running as we filled with concrete,both these pumps are still in the ground buried under 4 tonne of concrete. we started digging without the box shuttering and had to stop work and re think and come back to the job with some proper kit.

There’s a couple of us who have had to deal with a high water table, you need to state how high as this could really change your method of installation. concrete fill will be determined by your hole size, if you end up with a large hole due to the sides collapsing from water problems you will end up using far more concrete than you planned. you really need a good plan if you have a seriously high water table.

The white ones we don’t alter much, chilled out mellow white in all the glass cabinets and on the ornaments. the RGB ones we have we mess with loads more, but that’s probably just the novelty, we haven’t moved in yet.

What do you want to know, I’ve got about 12m of it in a kitchen fitted in a small aluminium track. all works from an app on the I pad and switched from the wall so the last setting is remembered. the LGBGT multi colour ones are ridiculously expensive compared to them.

Unless you have a fair bit of experience I would forget herringbone and use a plank, far more forgiving

You will find that with 75% of the things in the house. people asking about the most aesthetically pleasing mvhr vent 😂 shadow gap skirting and architrave. im sure I could have been in my place 2 years ago im I stopped overthinking things.

I’ve rendered all mine below dpc.

No idea it was 4 years ago.

You won’t need a chamber at the end just a rodding eye coming to ground level

Have you priced any of this stuff up, the last time I looked at an osma chamber base I thought it should come with a free Rolex.

I recently put all our valves up, they have been up two weeks and the wife has never noticed they are there. just go for function over pretty.

I’m not sure I like the shed idea, I think it would be too small, after a couple of years the fun of heading into the shed to do the washing will be wearing thin, I think I would either build something better or drag in a shipping container welfare container that’s already insulated, add a heated clothes rail and you can do drying in there as well.

Norrsken wanted 30mm clearance above my door for deflection of the rsj above the door, I told them it was icf construction so no rsj, they couldn’t understand how it held itself up. do your own research and make a decision, a few companies arse covering goes to silly levels.

Look at kingspan green guard 500. I put that under our doors.

Straight onto the eps, we discussed this a while back, the windows are heavy, but divide the weight by the area and the downwards pressure is very minimal.

In Australia I did its a tapered edge cement based board, you use a product from a tub over the joints and screw holes the same as internal plasterboard, but it’s obviously ok for outdoors. you can get a coloured board from James hardy that uses a joining strip instead of taping the joints.