Russell griffiths

If I’m right you are having a cavity, check the details for this area in particular.

Call them it’s that easy. then get an exemption form.

How are you running services, you could run a service batten on top of the insulation then fix plasterboard to that.

Have you looked at clay plaster that is applied at thinner thickness a mate of mine did a couple of walls in a hotel recently and I think he said it was thin like skim coat, he troweld it up for hours and it changed colour the more he worked it.

Why 3 bathrooms in a 4 bed that your selling i would think the market would expect an en-suite to the main bed then a family bathroom on the first floor and cloakroom toilet downstairs. Saves a big chunk of cash. what sort of houses are available locally and have you been to look at a few that will be in the price range you are aiming for.

Why the clay plaster ? if you had 3 chubby roofers working on your roof would you be concerned it was going to collapse? if it had plasterboard and skim before then all you are adding is the weight of the clay plaster, minus the original weight of the skim plaster. if you think that will overload your timbers then they should all be replaced now. how much do you think snow load is calculated at ? far more than a light fixture I think you need something else to worry about.

Pictures needed really

Have a look at a company called EWI SOLUTIONS they do a render specifically for below dpc and have a thin coat top coat called mosaic that goes over the top. you will need a stop bead and a drip bead at dpc to prevent the two renders touching and drawing moisture up.

Now that is certainly a better thing to worry about, I would start a new post about fire proofing and ceilings. as soon as you start going 3 storey everyone gets a bit fidgety.

Nobody will be coming and counting light bulbs, get it in.

I’m not sure i would be looking in the merchants you have a few things going on here you had a post asking how to get a certain mortar colour, and this is mainly down to quality tradesmen getting the local Joe who slashes up an extension every week is not the man I would want. for a whole hose with multiple openings I would want a quality team. cheap n cheerful is not what i would want.

In that case you will need a full depth of joist box all taped up. make them bigger than needed.

Twin stud wall, full fill with rockwool type insulation, take the insulation down between the steels also. long straps from 3 courses of blockwork down to timber studs. thar ridge beam will need a fair bit of insulation around it too.

Aluminium profile 2mm thick, powder coated to your choice of colour. stuck down

Show us a picture of the build, your times seam woefully low.

You want to go and look at it, it’s like you gave a load of school kids some crayons and said draw me a load of houses. 😂😂

2mm is far too thick to diy bend without the correct gear, either get some thinner material or just buy a pre bent piece. Most roof materials are well under 1mm the only thing I have in metal thicker than 1mm are the window cills and they are probably only 1.5mm.

Exactly this I had my planning granted the SAME day I took the plans into the council.

After living in Australia this is a common thing over there. a large plot of land is divided into a few dozen house plots, the local companies come in and buy and build their design house on that plot, punters then visit at the weekend and walk around all the show houses. you pick a builder you like and commission them to build on a plot you have or they will have other plots on other sites. I really hate the English way of a divided up estate all built by the same contractor in the same boring design to the same poor standard.

Remember your smoke alarms, you would need power to them and inter linked to the other alarms, add in a conduit to pull the cables through somehow.

Can you not cover it in pvc trim the same as the windows, it will take up about 8mm.

Why do you have a steel lintel on show, shouldn’t it have a trim over it.

Your not going to drill a 210 mm hole with a hole saw definitely a jigsaw job as John said fit ply mark centre point for duct drill centre hole with a slight fall remove ply and trace outline of duct cut out hole in ply draw around off cut of ply on the pro passive cut out pro passive draw around cut out of ply on outer layer of truss cut out outer layer Fit duct and seal up well fit ply and seal up well. or leave the duct loose until you are ready for the mvhr. I would always cut the holes larger as I like a good squirt of illbruck foam around everything

That’s the good thing about the fermacel boards, no skimming needed, just fill the screw holes and paint.