Russell griffiths

How much is the huge fee from the planning consultant our was about £4000 and she worked with us for 18 months getting the plans passed. your not mixing up all the survey fees and other documents with her cost are you. the rest of the fees took it up to £16,000, but the actual planning consultant I felt was very good value.

The cement faced foam core boards can be skimmed, but you use a specific primer. definitely not pva.

What do you want to know the brass stop cock is the incoming main, it’s got the couple of turns in the pipe so the tap is easier to reach instead of it being above the cylinder, as that cylinder is probably 1500high. the white bit of hep pipe is the temporary pipe because the water softener isn’t there. This allows the house to have water while the softener was removed so we could get to do the pipe work above it without dropping solder all over the new softener.

I have a Carlos fandango bearing puller, oil filled mega pressure one. it’s still easier with a cold chisel and lump hammer. get a chunk of 16-20mm round or square steel, put it in the vice and bend the top 40mm at an angle you can get that down the centre of the bush and use it like a drift.

Join a Facebook group called 8 ton and below loads of info on there regarding anything digger related.

First thing to do is put some safety glasses on. they are extremely hard and can shatter. I would look at some YouTube videos I did mine at the bucket end. you can do it a few ways, make up a puller/ pusher tool buy using some threaded rod 16mm you will need some old sockets from a socket set or buy some cheap Chinese rubbish from Amazon, get a socket the exact or just smaller than the bush add on a small extension bar, place on face of bush and whack the f##k out of it. After 3-4 whacks you will see it move. if it’s a two piece bush so one either side with a gap in the middle you can get a foot long cold chisel and put it through one bush and up against the other bush. Again whack the be Jesus out of it. it’s not a delicate operation. all sockets and extension bar will be buggered at the end so don’t borrow your mates best snap on set. 🤣🤣 SO YOU BOUGHT A DIGGER THEN. you kept that quiet. have fun.

The problem I’ve seen in these situations isn’t having sufficient bearing of the concrete lintel onto brickwork below, it’s the condition and location of the lintel onto small pieces of badly secured brickwork. cutting a hole up through a wall could end up with the lintel sitting on a small cut piece of brick instead of a full brick. removal of the plaster is needed as is proper placement of the opening or removing any small slithers of brick and replacing with full or half bricks minimum.

Some of our building regs are bloody ridiculous

It looks like there is all little melted bits of lead that have dripped onto the roof covering surely molten lead should not drip on to a rubber roof, or am I being OTT

Minimum bearing for a concrete lintel is 150 each end I believe.

Has been said above patination oil vertical joins are there for expansion but, that is a shit job, the creases should not be there, and why the flipping hell has he done it over the roof membrane without covering it. im not impressed with it to be honest.

How about a build hub local support network I’ve met a local lad building similar to me, we meet up once a month and drink tea and walk around his build, as I’m a couple of years in front of him I’ve been able to point out some things that worked well and some that didn’t. we have all been able to exchange some left over materials and also lend / borrow some tools. since meeting a couple of years ago we have also been out to the pub a couple of times with the wives. it’s handy to find someone in a similar situation who feels the pain you might be going through. I know it helped his wife to come to ours as she could see that there is actually light at the end of the tunnel, even if it’s just a distant glimmer. im in Cirencester if anybody wants a coffee or wants me to pop in and offer encouragement.

I would look at a multi tool blade that is longer than standard with a tungsten edge to it go under the cill and plunge in for the full depth then cut out the mastic under the window. good luck.

The way your describing is fairly serious as though you think there’s some gunk in there, if you stop loops 1-11 does the flow gauge on 12 not start to move. having the whole system going through 1 loop should really whoosh it around. or have you done that.

My windows by norrsken spin right around I’m not sure if that’s exactly what you want, but I’ve been nothing but impressed with them since fitting 4 years ago.

In that case I would check it has been built according to the drawings that picture shows 2 or 3 top plates with no support under them, it could well be the picture angle but from my angle that timber sitting under the top plate is not sitting on top of any studs and is just floating there. do you have a picture of the studs supporting the timber over that opening. if the timber that is on its side is knotched into the studs then that is the support, but from the inside aspect it looks like they are just nailed in. better to be safe than sorry after it’s all been covered up.

@ToughButterCup go indoors you fool, do the jobs inside, it will be spring in a blink of an eye come outside then. follow me for more insightful tips #sillybilly #nofoollikeanolfool

@Nickfromwales one for you.

That looks like the cheapest polythene you can get. if it’s a warm roof shouldn’t the vcl already have gone in under the insulation. is this the same builder that didn’t seal up all the roof area that you had to redo. and the same one that built the timberframe I questioned a section of your timberframe saying it was wrong but you didn’t reply to that bit. if it is then you need a new builder.

You can get a handheld version get that fora day as a tester. what are you actually try to achieve.

I looked into it, but you are limited to only a few designs as the machines have a certain shape jaw for forming the shape it’s a bit dated so might fit a traditional build, but not anything modern unless you find someone with different profile jaws.

You can get a self leveling compound designed for forklift traffic in warehouses I don’t know what it looks like, probably grey and boring looking if that what you are looking for. you could do one room with expansion gap at a door way as a tester.

Exactly that, you answered your own question.

The cables will probably come out into the back of a rotary isolator, so you won’t see those as there’s a big box over the cable holes. the pipes will have pipe insulation over them so again the hole in the timber will have a substantial lump of insulation covering it. flow and return pipe individually communication cables on their own supply gables one hole per supply to each isolater the holes for the pipes should be about 75mm so the insulation goes all the way through the wall, don’t but it up to the wall or you will be heating the core of the wall up.

Are you going to get the original building cleaned up a bit.