Russell griffiths

No, get them folded in aluminium and powder coated in the colour of your choice.

Nerdy dork alert!!!

Whatever you think it needs over engineering Massively I witnessed a large staircase that had a complex curve in it nearly twist off the wall as the temporary bracing was removed. there are some serious forces at play with cantilevers, and there would be nothing worse than a bouncy staircase. steel support structure buried in the wall for me, or a 140mm solid block wall.

Nope do nothing, Natural England have no money, no staff to either enforce anything or anything else for that matter, it’s just like making more laws but not having a police force. the only thing it is doing is making it increasingly hard to get new planning permission, unless you want to build 2000 houses that is.

Silly old England again. we live in the largest catchment area in the country that is not on a mains sewer, hundreds of houses everyone with its own septic tank. Natural England have just put a blanket SSSI status on the area covering a few thousand acres.

2 down pipes and very very little fall even dead flat, you don’t need much fall with modern aluminium gutters or high flow gutters. the weather in this country is changing, gone are the days of 8 hours of drizzle, now it’s. Big fat rain drops, these people specifying this stuff need to stop thinking it’s 1886. Australian regs are an outlet every 6 m, you want the water off the roof not sitting in a gutter unable to get out. we are starting to get more tropical big weather events. I would never build anything again with either hidden gutters or box gutters, recipe for a disaster.

The water from our graff tank is clear and completely odourless, it’s not likely to bung up your drainage field unlike my other septic tank which is horrible.

In this weather you can happily stand and soak the blocks with a hose pipe before laying, just soak the stacks of blocks while the mixer is getting loaded up.

Following this one.

Wrong blocks, you will not get a good bond onto celcon, you need to use a weak mix as the blocks are so weak the mortar ends up stronger than the blocks. a free standing wall will not have a lot of strength until the wall plate is on and it’s loaded with a roof structure.

@gavztheouch dont do it, you need a full length rack that extends out to the front bumper with vertical bars going down to the bumper. if you have 2m overhang out the front the wind will whip them up and snap them. I do this regularly, but my timber yard is an 8 minute drive away, so worth taking the punt around the back lanes. you would not believe the loads imposed on that timber if doing 50mph.

Both, why does it matter, unless you remove all the slabs on top then dig down the back and waterproof it correctly you are not going to fix it, the best you can do is tart it up and keep it looking fresh. having it re rendered won’t fix it.

When I did the costs on mine it was £3000 extra for pir over eps. that’s a good chunk more than a few hundred pounds.

You need to clad the walls with something that is not directly fixed to the blockwork like the render is. you will NEVER fix the problem without a complete redesign the trend of these white rendered walls in a garden situation was always going to fail, everyone is doing them and they will all fail. im afraid it’s just a poor design choice. some form of composite cladding then a larger overhang on the coping stone would have been more robust. sand it back and paint it, you will need to do this every year, tart it up in the spring, get a summer out of it and let it deteriorate in the winter, repeat next year.

We all know that, but do you need 200mm of pir in an nudura icf house, zero cold bridges, probably an air test of below 1 dpm sealed up against the walls, insulation fitted tightly. ufh will probably only flick on for an hour a day. I just don’t see the need for such a high level of insulation when the ufh pipes are in the 80mm screed sat on top of the insulation.

200mm eps then screed, save a fortune over pir.

Engineering for at least 150mm above ground level to allow for water splash. I like the look of 2-3 courses of a darker brick at ground level then the face brick. 450 is only 6 courses.

With a mist coat you need to work out your finished paint system and work backwards. it is a big problem in the painting industry at the moment of using 50 year old technology of a watered down contract emulsion then going over the top with one of the new technology scrubbable matts. the two types of paint don’t work and the hard wearing scrubbable version will pull the mist coat off the plaster. look at your top coat and follow the instructions on surface preparation.

600mm appliance normally only requires 615mm hole.

Mines all ducted.

I’ve never seen a raft foundation for a single dwelling with an expansion joint in the slab. what’s your engineers thoughts on this.

Run the duct for the fibre into the plot, run enough cable to reach the new house, but run it to the site hut or caravan, then just redirect it to the house when finished.

You need to buy the tap, then work out if your fitting flexible pipes or not, then mock it all up and do a drawing for the pipe penetration through the wall.

Not understanding the question block n beam floor has blocks between the beams, is that what you mean.

£600,000