Nestor

@Russell griffiths As mentioned. I glued all our stud wall to the screed using Caber D4 adhesive.

@saveasteading I used a extension on the bucket to lift Glulam ridge in position and some Genies to lift the 10.5m Steel for kitchen ridge. Otherwise it was all lifted by my Dad,on ladder and myself, 74 and 54 at the time. I did purchase some Kwikstage scaffolding to fit roof and cladding.

I made the frame in sections on some workhorses. Worth spending time on getting it all square and vertical. Have fun.

I was surprised how little waste when using 4.8m and 3.6m CLS C16 / C24. A few dumpy bags of off cuts left from tonnes of timber. Final finished sizes needed to be considered 50mm X 100mm = 38mm X 89mm. I used wafer head screws and did purchase a Senco DS5525 for fixings, heavy but helps. One of the more enjoyable parts of the build.

Verticals are 100mm shorter to allow for base and head plate horizontals. Is that right?

We have 125mm gutters with 87mm downpipes. Have some long runs, 14m, 13m and 12m with a single downpipe for each and work fine so far, absolutely hammering down at the moment though. 😟

Agree with @nod, Last week I fitted 2 X 12 metres of Lindab to the garage. Visually looks awkward on long runs but 2mm per metre is about right. I tried less but left a lot of sitting water so redid the brackets.

Have a 5000 litre tank and in use last few years. Originally connected up to 5 X WC's, washing machine and outside tap. Muddy water at times, so disconnected the washing machine first. Then a few power cuts and pump issues so disconnected the WC's except one. It overfilled yesterday for the second time due to debris blocking the overflow. Pumped it all out to clean and it was full again this morning after last nights heavy rain. I did empty the system last year and gave it a thoroughly clean and dug out and increased crates at the end of the overflow pipe. Will now dig out and extend overflow into the open for better access. Use leaf strainers and sell cleaning leaf traps at the other end, gutters will need regular maintenance though. Just my recent observations, not trying to put a downer on it, system will work with some maintenence.

Same here, used for the garden and garage WC. I emptied the tank last year and cleaned it thoroughly as even using filters and strainers debris still gets through. Also a few power cuts and pump troubles as well as digging out the overflow pipe to add more crates. Now will move overflow pipe past the crates and directly out.

I know what you mean about final / end product. The finish of the "Artisan" is near perfect from stock. I used some P320 very lightly between 2 coats of Polyvine decorators varnish using foam sponges and brushes. The plywood looks much better than the photos imply.

Agree about the MVHR and rainwater harvesting. Tank again over filled yesterday due to blocked overflow.

Thought I would just update this thread with a few photos. It was a bit of a journey for me compared to the main build as the detail is exacting down to how sharp is that 2H. Starts from the original measurements (used a laser measure), drawings in SketchUp, produce cut list for https://sydenhamsplywood.co.uk previously Avon Plywood. Spec was 22mm Birch "artisan" grade. Then the invisible fixings which I used, for the first time, a Peanut 2 Mini jig and a few pocket hole fixings. I did use Ikea Pax frames and drawers inside the plywood surrounds and fronts. I learnt a lot, did the other bedroom and now have plywood floor to ceiling pantry, coat and boot and utility cupboards! Also window surround. Very fortunate to have the time and space and do appreciate the skill and cost of the professionals. Total cost £4.6K in materials. Curtains / blinds, window cushion to follow which I will not be making.

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/browse/sliding-door-gear/sliding-and-folding-door-kits/timber-sliding-door-kits Barn door sliding kit, others available.

@revelation Fitted some Parador LVT at home https://www.doorsandfloors.co.uk/parador-trendtime-5-mineral-black-spc-rigid-click-vinyl-flooring.html in 10m x5m kitchen around an island and at the end of the room small gaps appeared. Relaid it and fits perfectly. The fit is exact though so any gaps indicates incorrect fitting. As @nod says, 5mm expansion gap. Attach some photos.

No issues anywhere with condensation in our airtight (meets requirements for passive) house, all pipework within envelope.

Rightly so, I built most of my (airtight) house except door and window fitting (Internorm), electrics and skimming. The fitting was very poor, I just wanted them off site and spent many hours finishing the fine details using some foam and lots of tape. They only used compriband. Not quite sure how far inbound of the frame towards the reveals lies the responsibilities of window fitters ? Don't trust them much.

Exactly what @ToughButterCup said.

My floor build up has 100mm of concrete below the 150mm insulation. I set the UFH in 60mm screed.

@TheMitchells @MikeGrahamT21 Is this the kit you are using or similar?

From my recent enquiries about building a sauna at home the internal material costs alone for a 2100 x 2100 are £2600.00 from here : https://www.saunashop.co.uk/product-range/details/2100-x-2100/377/ That price excludes all timber framing for walls , floor, roof, double glazing and any labour. I would expect a sauna in the above image to cost between 7.5 - 10K.

That is a poor job as others have mentioned. I used some concrete bolts. It is critical to use the exact size masonry bit and the hole is cleaned out before fitting the bolt otherwise it can split the concrete.

"But we''re setting an example"

I did the render last and it was one of the worst jobs I encountered during the whole build due to the access.

Not sure what stage you are at with your build but I put a direct air supply in the concrete slab if and when we fit a stove.

I agree with @Conor and would put the oven and all the other tall units where the hob is . Move the hob to island and keep the sink in front of the window. Ventilation for the hob is the challenge but doable. I prefer no mid height wall cupboards. You have a plenty of drawers and a pantry. Otherwise option C. Enclosed is a photo of when we just moved in. The island is 2.2m X 1.2m. (just large enough for prep and cooking). The sink work top by the window is 3.6m. We have a pantry 1.6m x 2m through the doorway on the right of the tall cupboards.