Nestor

Not an expert but have similar thoughts about where the internal floor build up meets the external walls, no sufficient thermal break visible to me. I fitted 20mm Pavatherm reveal boards in the window apertures, timber frame build. Not suitable under large doors due to compression so used 25mm plywood. Walls are 390mm deep.

Thanks Nick, this was just an internal cupboard but do understand the principle. Thought that these perimeter strips were more to allow for expansion and stopping the screed escaping, the external walls are 420mm wide! Have a great Christmas.

I have enclosed a shot, it is inside a hall cupboard! I fitted 150mm celotex tight to the walls, taped all the joints, fitted plastic sheet, taped then UFH. The perimeter edge insulation has an adhesive strip on one side which fixes to the upstand / wall and polythene apron which lies on the floor. Just need to make sure the screed cannot escape. Hope that helps.

I installed similar worktops in 2006, very pleased with them. The final surface was a smooth as glass. Once in use the minor blemishes will hopefully become less relevant. Easy to maintain, every couple of years I would rub down with wire wool / sandpaper and reapply with a cloth. I did test the 3068 but found the white pigment interfered with the actual colour of the wood, this was a few years back.

Clicked on the link expecting details about U values and weather compensation curves. Lovely surprise. Best landlord .

Not quite the same but have just painted 14 flush plywood internal doors with black Osmo Oil stain. I did 3 coats, first 2 applied with a 4" roller and sanded with 320. Top coat applied very liberally with lint free cloth wrapped around a hand pad holder, Osmo do a fleece, link below. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-hand-applicator-fleece?sid=1&s=3970027-c23026905f54b60afc435908c3958a1f&r=10&p=1 Have you noticed any white pigment in the 3068?

As @Conor Can you confirm the quality of the tile, even thickness at either end and centre. Perfectly flat or any bowing? Can you run a straight edge across the vertical surface for a photo.

I used the In screed cable from here, have a read around. https://flexel.co.uk/product-category/underfloor-heating/ Just check the UFH matting adheres to the board, the self levelling will help bond it all together. Regarding threshold heights, on a new self build it can become a bit obsessive. Just do your best with the materials available. Do another section drawing in mm with the new materials for your own peace of mind including tile and the adhesive. Make a start, hopefully using large format tiles! I had over 1100 hexagonal and small rectangonal tiles to fit in our Wetroom. Never again. I used https://www.protilertools.co.uk as well.

I. agree, you agree. It was really a comment on @ETC contributions. Addressing overbearing and cramped should get this passed.

Progress, Option 1. Huge improvement. Great to see a contemporary new build design instead of rehashing the existing vernacular. Personally, it is a tricky site with minimal parking for both properties, I think a 3 bed with attached garage would be acceptable.

From our window experience it was all such a disappointment, especially the fitting which they do everyday! I think an independent report would be advisable to move forward. Lovely looking home, btw.

Some random thoughts, not a professional but built a house with 4 bathrooms. A level threshold to the bedroom would be very critical for me, within a few mm. I fitted wet UFH in foiled EPS boards under the 6mm Hardie Backer and electric cable in a 50mm sand & cement screed. You could use 18mm P5 or 12mm Hardie Backer above the insulation and slab but would need to be fixed well, no movement. I think fixed battens to the slab would work. Electric, (is it self adhesive matting) fitted to one of the above then apply thin layer of self levelling to encapsulate heating elements. Then tank and tile. What the Boss @Nickfromwales said.

What Nick said, A tiled floating floor wet room does not work for me, I would want it all fixed with zero movement. When I tiled our wet room I fixed Hardie backer board through to the P5 Caberdek which is fixed to the floor joists.

Floating so battens not fixed to the slab?

As above.

It is all subjective but I would not call this " a prominent corner plot" even though the case officer seems to be on your side. It is overbearing and cramped. All are semis with a driveway between except number 42 with a separate garage at the rear. You have had 19 letters of objection. Upset the Arboricultural Officer and Natural England. No property in the street has had a two storey extension built. All single storey wraparound. Look at no 33 for ideas, looks like garage with a mono pitch roof or imagine no 42 with an attached garage.

Enclosed are the drawings of the application for a 2 storey extension at no 33 back in 2006. Was refused. You have also had 11 objection letters from your neighbours. Also the removal of 2 mature oak trees prior to planning does not go down well with the locals. Not sure your planning consultant is listening. Good luck.

This was your second refusal? Some random grabs from a quick search, 2 have a front facing gable which are probably not suitable and 2 hipped with garage on right hand side. Looking at past planning applications, your neighbours have planning for only single storey extensions, the only 2 storey application was refused in 2006.

Good point and I would switch the garage to the right hand side to create more visual space to no 35. Worth doing a few visuals.

That was a bonus. Your proposal (Double fronted) and the corner home opposite yours, you can understand the comments cramped and overbearing. Difficult design to compromise if wanting the double frontage. You will get there.

Did you purchase the property in September 2024 with the sole purpose of building on the corner plot? You are taking full advantage of the plot size so not surprised with some push back. Another attempt with the planning consultant should get you your result.

They are doing a great job, I was only being pedantic. It is great seeing the progress through your blog. The local timber is special but quite challenging to work with, shrinkage was inevitable ( air dried in the garage for 3 months but not enough) but the half lap compensated for it. I also used about 150 sqm of local Douglas fir for the garage, no half lap as horizontal shiplap. Quite similar to Cedar, not as knotty, feels a bit denser. Weathering well and might stain it next summer. Onwards......

Fantastic build, the Ash is such a premium product and looks great. I purchased about 300sqm of locally cut Red Cedar, 200mm wide and then cut a half lap on each edge, fixed with SS screws. Very knotty compared to Canadian but does not detract. Image below is triggering!! But you do have very good builders, you must so pleased with the progress. Can you tell me what the electrics behind the cladding is, one looks like Cat 5/6?

Screen grab from the Kingspan site. Not sure where the 10mm drape on top of the batten would have come from. Is your final roof covering on? I did fit 9 Velux in our roof using the Velux insulation and underfelt collars as well as taping the membrane around the frame. Near waterproof before I fitted flashing kit and metal roof.

Sack trolley, clock hands or the image is a standardized symbol (IEC 60417 - 6284) used in technical documentation. No idea.