Nestor

2 options, CPI or temporary freeze until CPI aligns with RPI, mid 2030's. Over 800,000 homes had FiT installations. Email address: RO@energysecurity.gov.uk Payback calculations below, November 2011.

I fitted the same and like you abit disappointed, the trap being plastic, overall does not really match the quality of the Majestic system which is excellent.

And @SteamyTea Thanks for that, will have a read and could replace with rockwool. I read that some type of aluminised vapour control membrane needs to be fitted. I will look for a drawing.

I have a 12m x 6m garage with carport on the end. I have now enclosed a 3m x 3m area to accommodate a sauna, 2m x 1.3m, separate shower +WC, and kitchen sink. Large enough to lie down, 3 seated. I had some 150mm Celotex left over so used that on the base, + 50mm concrete screed with electric UFH. Fitted Celotex in the external walls. External cold shower and above ground plunge bath eventually. Stud work completed, waiting for the electrician..

In 2017, BPC supplied a metal silencer, ASM 150600 with my kit. I fitted it between the Vent Axia unit and supply manifold only. Unit fixed down well? It might help temporarily, disconnecting one of the supply from the manifold to the bedroom as you have a double.

Just had a quick glance at your drawings, looks great. I do like the split level, we have a sloping site and all 4 entrance /exits are flush with the outside. Any doors to separate the hallway from the main living area? Noise might be an issue upstairs. We have 2 pocket doors (Not noisy) and are in use most evenings if others are in the bedrooms. I would spend time and money on soundproofing between bedrooms and bathrooms.

I fitted about 55sqm of Parador Trendtime 5 LVT, rough dimensions 900mm x 450mm x 6mm. Floating on Caberdek. Good quality product but does slightly lift where sited in direct sunlight in front of 4 metre sliding door. Very slight bow between first and second tile now. It just lays flush up against door threshold, I left expansion gaps against walls and under kitchen cabinets. Gaps all hidden. I plan to lift the first row and apply either glue or double sided. No obvious movement issues anywhere else.

Not Bosch. Lots of good advice on thread, if not ready to spend I would recommend again hiring for a weekend at least 40cc + machine. Fill it up, plug in your AirPods / headphones and keep clearing until the tank is dry, repeat and see how you feel. The site needs clearing by you or others and then kept cut back, mown using a flail / topper, ideally.

Depending on the area and frequency you wish to cut back the overgrowth, I would rent a 40cc + Husqvarna or similar for starters. It will need heavy duty strimmer line or a metal 3 tooth blade for dense and heavy grass and small woody stems. You will need a harness and eye / ear protection. Fuel and oil. I have a Huqvarna 545 RXT, it's a brute, yes expensive but will last me out if maintained. It can be exhausting clearing large areas so be realistic about your goals.

I did B, no movement or cracking. Taped and skimmed. Lets ask the boss @nod

I agree with @Mr Punter. Have 2 runs. Not a professional but I exited pipework out of the building to avoid long runs within the slab. Bit of extra external excavation but all accessible.

Please explain why you call it a softwood? Paging @SteamyTea

It has been working fine, been in use for 5 years now, emptied twice as we have a septic tank here as well for another building. Very simple operation, has been redesigned since this model. Air pump housing was basic plastic box which reverberates so needs careful placement sound proofing, etc. No settled sludge, no smells. Much missed Joe90 passed away in February.

Yep, a race to the bottom and we are winning. Their is a lower and standard rate depending on qualifying materials.

Correct, most composite doors have a solid timber / foam core surrounded by uPVC.

You would need to check the lipping amount on each vertical edge. Our internal doors have 6mm lipping. External doors are usually constructed using solid strips / blocks of timber but you would need to check the door spec on each stile. You probably need to move / replace the door stops depending on thickness of replacement.

Rough, you need an architect.

Good question as LVT does require space for expansion especially if in direct sunlight. As SWMBO changed their mind I then laid LVT on top of the tiles up to the legs as I had already installed the kitchen units. Ask the flooring company why.

Not a professional tiler but tiles first, @nod will confirm.

Good job but probably need vertical support underneath. I have same issue to resolve, no access underneath. What is the final finish, paint / carpet ? I will probably remove some of the riser or tread to fix verticals underneath. It's on the list.

What is the distance between the supply and extract of the MVHR, mine are 2 metres apart with the extract above the supply. Would move it to another wall or 2 - 3 metres above ASHP, if possible.

Your expectation from the AC guy is probably accurate, if not doing yourself then a high quality carpenter / decorator required, High quality fees will apply. Do post final outcome.

I would remove enough plasterboard and move the MVHR extract up the wall closer to the ridge, would need an extension for the ducting, etc. Fit some additional noggins between the existing frame to support the inverter. Just a bit of work but worth it.

That is an image from google. I battened then counter battened before fixing cedar. Only 50mm gap here. I assume you will use larger timbers. I think it most cases the timber frame would have been designed to accommodate the overhang. Can the gable end fascia / soffit fit the extra 200mm?

From a practical point of view running the cladding proud would help keep water off the top of the stone work and clean edge. Do a quick search, mostly forward of stone work. Lots of great examples.