Russdl

Yes. Every little helps.

How can that be possible in 5 years? I guess only via dodgy installation/commisioning?

The red bar thibgy won’t move unless you move it. It’s a marker to show where the black thibgy should be. You should never need to move it but it can be moved to indicate a different pressure by using a screwdriver in the centre.

I would say stick with experts here (me not being one of them). This is not rocket science and I reckon you can fix/fault find this yourself - with the help of the smart people on this forum - and then you can either cure your problem yourself, or tell a ‘professional’ exactly what the problem is and what you want fixing.

I would call that brand new. Ish. It looks like @ProDave has got your back to make sure you’re not being scammed.

Isn’t it all brand new??

Maybe. Pretty unlikely I would think - but I’m no expert.

So, to re pressurise the big red expansion vessel you need to open the silver isolatation valve (second photo) with a screwdriver (90 degree turn either way, doesn’t matter, it’s open when the slot is in line with flexi hose). Then turn the black handle lever thingy (first photo) to slowly open it and you should see the pressure increase indicated by the black pointer creeping towards the red pointer (third photo). It’s probably best done with the heating off, but I don’t know. The fact the pressure has gone from the expansion vessel is indicative of a leak somewhere.

Somebody smarter will be along to give better information I would hope.

I’m no expert. The red pointer is just a marker for where the black pointer should be. Clearly the pressure has dropped. I can’t see clearly in the video but on the right hand side of the flexi hose, that looks like an isolation valve. Is that open? Slot in line with the valve not across the valve? With that open then slowly opening the black one you mentioned should allow water through and the pressure should rise. Stop when the black pointer is in line with the red pointer.

Nice one Centurion.

Good effort @SteamyTea using around a quarter of what you used to consume in the same gaff is no mean feat. What was the main driving force? CO2 emissions or cost reduction?

Personally, I think you’re right. ~~~ If it’s wild outside don’t open the garage door. Go in by the side door - and if you have to open the garage door when there are ‘elements’ then keep the side door closed and most of the elements won’t get in. The larger single door will make life so much easier than two smaller ones when you’re getting stuff in/out. We have a 5m door (and within is my ‘baby’ car) the elements don’t get in. I won’t let that happen.

Also trying to sell a house (who knows what the future will bring?) without any heating may be problematic. That was one of the reasons we opted for UFH. The lived experience is that if we were living without UFH during these cold spells there would more than likely be a bit of grief with ‘er indoors. As an aside, our downstairs north facing toilet has two short loops of UFH pipes going in and out. The UFH is never on for more than 6hr (cheap rate electric) and it can feel cooler than the rest of the house during these cold spells. One or two tea lights is all it takes to keep that room snug and warm.

Ah, OK. (you could always build it detached and then go and ask for forgiveness 😁)

@flanagaj I presume you won’t be attempting to access the garage from within the house? And if not, why are you planning an ‘attached’ garage and not ‘detached’? Detached would be a whole lot easier I suspect.

The Osmo oil I’ve used in the past said ‘maximum 2 coats’. I can’t see how 4 coats would be a problem but maybe it is? Does your particular oil mention maximum number of coats? I’ve got 2 coats of the white pigment one (probably the 3068) on a table top and it’s not showing any sign of wear and tear after a year or so - mind you nothing is put straight on to the table top without a mat or coaster.

absolutely. I find that a bit strange, but if that was your experience then I can’t argue that. In our previous place we had a screen above the fireplace and a projector behind us, no one ever had issues (old, young and in between) watching films, sport etc. day to day viewing was an normal TV at normal level (which actually was probably looking down a bit). In our new place we have a large TV at an above fireplace level because it’s a picture/photo when it’s ’off’ and that’s the only TV we have (no fireplace this time). No complaints from old, young or in between.

Just to be contrary. Definitely put it above the fireplace, your head won’t be at a noticeable angle and it is fully articulated so you’ll cope with any minor angle required. Replace the mantle piece with a larger one to provide heat protection (maybe remove a course or two of blocks so the mantle piece can be lower). Then get a Samsung ‘the frame’ TV so that you have a stunning artwork in pride of place, above the fireplace, for those times you’re not watching the box.

Wouldn’t one of the problems be insufficient parking space? You’ve not mentioned that.

That’s great news, I hope I don’t have to make that call 🤞🏻

Hopefully that will be sufficient to concentrate their minds. Good luck.

Can you reject it under the sale of goods act as ‘…not being of merchantable quality…’?

If you make the external mesh size much smaller it’ll be that which is bunged up in no time. You have to decide which filter you want to give the most regular attention to. Personally I knocked up a pre filter to sit between the two, and now, on the Mk2, it’s all going very well - but it does need frequent cleaning, pretty much every 3 months.

I would have thought only you can answer that question for your circumstances? For my circumstances the sectional option was much better than the roller option. I don’t have any roof storage space or lights to obstruct when the door is open and I did want good insulation so it was a very easy decision for me to make.