Russdl

There is a fair bit on the forum going back a good while regarding instant water heaters, I don’t know if you’ve searched yet but something there may answer your question. I have an instant water heater in the garage, puny little thing but produces nice tepid water at the end of a 20m cold run. As for the Willis heater option, that won’t automatically switch on when you run the tap so I’d suggest it would not be a straight forward solution for your problem (great for UFH though!)

Don’t really know. If it’s definitely a wood fibre board it’s unlikely to contain asbestos but if there is any doubt you should get it tested. Asbestos was used in so many building products mid 20th century.

That’s my point. That’s what we did.

I was dead set against not making good use of the loft from a ‘wasting so much space’ point of view. Why go to so much effort to build a quality, individual house and then have a loft space that’s kind of part of the house and kind of not, and largely useless… …until the next owner spends multi thousands doing a loft conversion and finally bringing the loft into the fold. Christmas decorations (you may have a point). Some gym equipment and a couple of SUP’s (you may have a point again). Suitcases. MVHR. House battery. Kids LEGO and train sets in storage for grandkids (I’m back in the lead).

Is it too late to incorporate it in to the thermal envelope and make it a proper useable loft? Ours is (MBC). Proper staircase going up to it, carpets etc. It is the loft, no windows but most definitely the loft but also a very useable part of the house and that’s where the Christmas decorations are. Along with lots of other stuff. It meant we had to have FD30 internal doors but it was worth that.

Cor that’s weird! Have you got a thermal camera you can point at the door to see if it’s a uniform temperature (thus uniformly filled)?

I suspect they are all much of a muchness, I think I got all mine from Wickes who don’t seem to stock them anymore. Perfect for that level access with no drainage problems. Perfect for when you change your mind about the patio shape. Perfect for when you drop something really heavy on to a tile and damage it, 2 seconds to lift the tile and replace it.

If my experience is anything to go by then mistakes will be made - nothing major, though every small mistake seems enormous in the moment. Stress will be high. But, without a doubt (for me, with zero prior knowledge) it was definitely the best decision.

No recommendations apart from have you considered managing the project yourself? It’ll save you a bundle and you will more than likely pay much more attention to what is going on, and what soon needs to be going on, than any professional project manager.

Do you need those? It’ll be plenty light enough in there with the windows you have planned, those roof lights will just add complexity and cost (and maybe leaks) and be noisy when it rains. Wracking my brain for a ‘positive’ but can’t come up with anything.

Why not go for a flat roof, wouldn’t doing that solve your problem? EPDM is very DIYable.

Holy sh*t, and what a noise, has he left a spanner in the pump?? I’m sorry I can’t help in any way, but do go in all guns blazing tomorrow.

Yep, this stuff. It was around -2 when I took the photo and been negative temps for about 8hrs I think. I didn’t think +10 was too bad but I haven’t done the sums (Steamy will do those I suspect). Actually the foam is probably a degree or so warmer than the +10, that coldest spot is the plastic Ubbink connector.

It’s chilly and foggy outside and the ‘Mk2’ insulated pre filter box is performing admirably. The Ubink insulated ducting being the coldest thing in the MVHR room now. It did seem to seem to be noisier/running faster than normal. I had my suspicions that the pre filter mesh may be getting clogged again, I also had my suspicion that freezing fog may be having an adverse affect on the air permeability of the fine mesh… Turns out the freezing fog was playing a major role in restricting air flow.

All went well in the end. I know some on here have had a good experience with Fermacell, they are probably more experienced in that kind of thing. Me, as a rank amateur, struggled. Good luck with whatever you end up doing.

Yes. Every little helps.

How can that be possible in 5 years? I guess only via dodgy installation/commisioning?

The red bar thibgy won’t move unless you move it. It’s a marker to show where the black thibgy should be. You should never need to move it but it can be moved to indicate a different pressure by using a screwdriver in the centre.

I would say stick with experts here (me not being one of them). This is not rocket science and I reckon you can fix/fault find this yourself - with the help of the smart people on this forum - and then you can either cure your problem yourself, or tell a ‘professional’ exactly what the problem is and what you want fixing.

I would call that brand new. Ish. It looks like @ProDave has got your back to make sure you’re not being scammed.

Isn’t it all brand new??

Maybe. Pretty unlikely I would think - but I’m no expert.

So, to re pressurise the big red expansion vessel you need to open the silver isolatation valve (second photo) with a screwdriver (90 degree turn either way, doesn’t matter, it’s open when the slot is in line with flexi hose). Then turn the black handle lever thingy (first photo) to slowly open it and you should see the pressure increase indicated by the black pointer creeping towards the red pointer (third photo). It’s probably best done with the heating off, but I don’t know. The fact the pressure has gone from the expansion vessel is indicative of a leak somewhere.

Somebody smarter will be along to give better information I would hope.

I’m no expert. The red pointer is just a marker for where the black pointer should be. Clearly the pressure has dropped. I can’t see clearly in the video but on the right hand side of the flexi hose, that looks like an isolation valve. Is that open? Slot in line with the valve not across the valve? With that open then slowly opening the black one you mentioned should allow water through and the pressure should rise. Stop when the black pointer is in line with the red pointer.