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Russdl

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Everything posted by Russdl

  1. Russdl
    As @Gus Potter mentioned we’ve cut many many many meters of firings to go on top of C section steel joist, diminishing in size front to back so that the roof deck for our new garage has the required fall. I shopped around and no one was really interested in doing it for me and ultimately I’m pleased about that, quality control when you’re doing it yourself is so much easier. It took time, but that was mine to give. With the drawings from a certain SE and good old SketchUp I knew exactly how much scuff (or taper) I needed on each firing so that the boards laid flat on the firings instead of just sitting on the high point of each firing. For us it’s was 0.7mm - we settled for 1mm as it was easier to measure! So, for example, say one of our firings needed to be 45mm thick on the uphill side, it needed to be 43mm thick on the downhill side. I measured the 44mm and 43mm on either side of the timber, drew a line and then lined up the skillsaw with the pencil line, did a few test cuts close to the line on the waste side of the timber to confirm the angle of the saw and then set the guide and cut away. The set angle remains the same for all firings. Our joists are equally spaced and each firing was 7mm bigger than the previous so I just moved the skillsaw guide by 7mm for the next firing strip. It worked really well, each sheet of OSB sits squarely on all the firing strips it touches and has the required fall. Hope that helps.
  2. Russdl
    @Adrian Walker our flow rates are generally low, circa 100m3/hr unless our CO2 monitor tells us to speed things up or we’re drying clothes in the utility room so I don’t think it’s going to be moving around - but who knows. I may not tell him, I may just present him with some 6mm without explanation of the route the cable has taken. That may be a bit of a pig to drag round the numerous bends the duct takes. I expect the 6mm cable may be problematic enough. I think I’m leaning toward the cable inside the MVHR duct. It’ll be dead easy to do. Famous last words.
  3. Russdl
    I have an idea. Is this crackpot? The cable needs to go from the loft, right where the MVHR is, to the utility room. Several MVHR ducts take that route already. How about I run my required cable inside an MVHR duct. I would obviously need to airtight seal where the cable enters and exits the duct. Madness? Has anyone done similar before? What are the pitfalls?
  4. Russdl
    @ProDave I like that plan, thanks. I think the “hive mind”agrees it won’t be an issue (?) because I don’t really want to burn the house down. I shall propose that to the installer, or maybe magic to bits of 6mm either end (I know he won’t fall for it but I’ll see how I get on 👍)
  5. Russdl
    Sadly not, not enough room. The only option identified so far is outside the back door which is pretty close to everything and there is a duct in place. But I don’t want it outside, I want it in the loft. It’s a tough life isn’t it 🤣 There are of course numerous solutions but the AIO appealed the most. C’est la vie, I’ll work on it.
  6. Russdl
    The installer/sparky got the following response from Givenergy: ”Unfortunately, GE will only give approval for a singular 6mm cable to the AiO Battery.” I suspect that means no warranty etc if it’s not installed as approved, I also suspect the sparky won’t install it unless it’s iaw the manufacturers now very specific guidance which is fair enough I suppose. I’ll run the points raised in this thread past him but it looks like it’s time to reassess. Thanks for all the input (despite me only understanding half of it!)
  7. Russdl
    As an indication of how far I am from understanding the finer points of this, I don’t know if: “…= 9.7kW!” is a good thing or a bad thing - but it’s clearly a thing.
  8. Russdl
    Thanks everyone for the feedback, much of which was over my head. I don’t plan on doing anything myself but will use the provided information to hopefully prod the sparky in the direction I wish to travel but ultimately I guess he’ll decide if he’s happy with it or not.
  9. Russdl
    Thank **** for that 🤣
  10. Russdl
    Trouble is I don’t have a clue how to do that. Any pointers?
  11. Russdl
    It will be from the loft to ground floor, probably around 12-13m as the cable flies. A bit of Googling looks like the worst case for 4mm (conduit in wall) is max 26 amps and for the 2.5mm (conduit in wall) is max 20 amps. @ProDave has the worst case for the 4mm as 22 amps so with a similar reduction to the 2.5mm to, say 16 amps, I still have a combined 38 amps. My cables are not conduit in wall so will be better than those figures, amperage wise it would look like I'm home and dry? The cables will be similar though not identical in length, what other issues are there likely to be?
  12. Russdl
    @JohnMo, thanks. Any idea if the max current of 32A has any bearing on my original question re paralleling the 4mm2 with the 2.5mm2?
  13. Russdl
    Thanks for the reply @ProDave I’ll see if I can find the max current in the specs. Both the 4mm and 2.5mm cable will, on the whole, be in free air though pushing through a rock wool batt here and there I suspect (can’t remember precisely, and I don’t have sufficient photos).
  14. Russdl
    Our house, when built, was wired for a battery system, plus it had cabling installed for an emergency power supply (both of these cables sit redundant). We're at the stage now where we are seriously considering a battery and I'm looking at the Givenergy All In One battery system. The installation documentation for the All in One states "...minimum cable size requirements for the All in One are 6mm2 minimum" The existing unused battery cable is 4mm2 and the existing unused cable for the EPS is 2.5mm2. Running a new 6mm2 cable to the position needed would be virtually impossible so I asked the installer the stupid question, does 4mm2 + 2.5mm2 = 6.5mm2, in other words can I combine the two existing cables and use them as a parallel supply? To my surprise he didn't laugh at me but instead said he'd check with the manufacturer. This is the manufacturers response - a bit of a non answer "The wiring would have to be as per UK electrical Regs in terms of wiring and connections". The installer is going to check what they actually mean, but can someone help me here, is it lunacy to even suggest such a thing or is it safe/acceptable to parallel the supply with certain protections in place? Any guidance gratefully received.
  15. Russdl
    We fitted a silt trap in the pipe run to the soakaway. Works well, I empty the silt trap every quarter or so. I’ll find a link… https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/silt-sentinel-300-series-1000mm-deep-catchpit-vertical-silt-trap.html
  16. Russdl
    @Coanda (you got me at ‘SketchUp’ love it!) What do you plan on building the frame out of? Any plan for a summer bypass?
  17. Russdl
    I presume you’re snuggled under a quilt with a room that temperature? Without any heating our bedroom temperature is 21.5 degrees, as is the rest of the house +/-0.5. We’re sleeping under a quilt cover (no quilt) and we do so for >90% of the year. It’s like summer night bedroom temperature all year round. I’m guessing that currently you don’t achieve your desired 15/16C in the summer? You’ll adapt.
  18. Russdl
    +1 to the Shelly relays, that’s what we use for our electric towel rails, works a treat.
  19. Russdl
    I guess you’ve checked to see if there is a rear exit flue option on that stove? Some stoves have the option of top or rear exit flue and if yours does that may solve your problem.
  20. Russdl
    We live in the country, not too far from a large pig farm. On occasions with the wind in the wrong direction it can absolutely wreak outside. The smell has never made it indoors via the MVHR and we have no carbon filters. I’ve no idea why. Someone scientific may be able to explain? Also when it gets chilly out the wood fires start from the houses all around and that is also very obvious when outside but again the smell has never got indoors through the MVHR. It may not be the problem that you think it will be.
  21. Russdl
    Don’t do what a bloke I know did. He put a circular saw blade in an angle grinder, took the handle off because it was getting in the way and a few seconds later he cut his leg off 🤮 He did get a free helicopter ride to hospital though so it wasn’t all bad.
  22. Russdl
    @pauldoc we have a very similar construction and we had similarly ludicrous quotes. We went with HomeProtect and they came in at a ‘normal’ price. We’ve just renewed and it’s still normal.
  23. Russdl
    That’s exactly what we do. The whole House is on softened water with the exception of the kitchen tap. That has conditioned water from a Combimate. It’s all working very well, no sign of limescale anywhere and we’re in a hard water area. Softened water isn’t salty by the way, maybe fractional more saly than un-softened water but imperceptibly so in my experience (teeth brushing for example).
  24. Russdl
    I’d recommend the porcelain. (Virtually) indestructible, very easy to keep clean and looks the same from one year to the next. The Indian sandstone will look good when it’s first laid and deteriorate from there on in.
  25. Russdl
    Not so sure about game changing for ‘old stock’ because as they say, it doesn’t fill holes it seals leaks so holes would have to be found and filled first but thanks for sharing that video, the first I’ve ever seen or heard of such a system, a brilliant idea.
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