Cpd

Good luck man. I REALLY hope you get the desired outcome, I don’t think I could cope with another disaster on this thread...... it’s not even my roof and I am nervous ?

I am in the same position, this year is the first time in six years that I have had to prune my dogwoods, fuchsia and a few other shrubs and although I can have as many bonfires as I like I would prefer to reuse any waste I create out of the garden. Was given a “Broken” mulcher recently and need to find the time to see if it’s an easy fix.. I made about 30+ cuttings from the stems I cut and will see if they grow, have had good results from cuttings in the past and have such a huge garden that it’s easy to plant 30 or more shrubs and then forget where you put them !

A great tip ! Thanks

Never had the nerve to try lead welding, i have been soldering my joints and they are still 100% after six years. Hats of to you for getting in about it.

Russell’s description is right. However because I am using very traditional slates they can be up to 15mm or more thick and when you’ve got them all overlapping it can soon add up to a thick layer of stone.... I also live in a very windy location and if I did not have a malleable material there would be a big old gap below each soaker and therefore I use lead as I can form it up and around the slates and then run it under the slate to beyond the next slate joint or wherever I feel is appropriate. The Lower part of lead you see in my photo is the chimney breast skirt as shown in the photo below. I like using lead as it’s fun to work with, I have learnt to solder it with very good results, clean joints that have not failed in 6 years so far. On a modern build I really don’t think you would need it as there are great alternatives that and cleaner and will give a much more crisp finish.

+1 I have used quite a lot f plantings to repair my road, cheap and when “properly” compacted and tidied up will look presentable.

What I call soakers..... are single L shaped pieces of thin metal that slot under each slate and go up the wall, they then have a cover strip over them to prevent water ingress from above. This is my chimney where I used lead as I needed to mould it round the tradional slates as you can see the piece under the lead extends quite a way so even if you got a moss or leaf build up in the corner water would not be able to back up and cause any problems,

Thie link you show is what I would call a valley not a soaker....... but This would be an improvement on a home made lead valley and used with modern slates would, I think work well. If your In a woodland environment or an area prone to leaf build up I would make sure you have looked at all options as soakers on each slate would not be susceptible to getting g blocked. I used soakers around my chimney breast and dressed a piece if lead down over the top and it worked really well. Uses a lot more lead...... but modern aluminium soakers and cover plate could look crisp if done well.

Nice and simple ! Good example.

Like others I use a aluminium rail, I use it with my jigsaw and circular saws and it doubles up as my “long” straight edge for levelling and marking. I got this bad boy for £30 ex demo but new they are over £60...... when breaking down sheets the clamps are great as it’s quick and easy. It will outlast me if I don’t do anything stupid with it........

I have not done this on a modern build...... but I used lead. I made lead gullies and lapped them into a cut line on the stone wall. I must say that I am not very pleased with the gullies as they can get leaves and moss stuck in them and the water can track back onto the roof membrane. was I doing it again I would use soakers. So to answer your question (non expert) i would use high quality (probably not lead) soakers and attach them to the wall and then Use some sort of cover strip that you render down to to get a clean crisp edge. Your fixing points are all covered and sealed and it will look great. I look forward to hearing how it’s “properly done “ !

I am doing my shed at the moment and there are three things that have dictated where I put my studs, 1. To make sure that my obs sheeting edge will fall in the centre of a stud 2. Designed spacing to accommodate rock wool insulation with minimal cutting 3. To make sure it’s as solid as I require it. Am am I missing something

I may be wrong.....l. But is it not because if your using 1200mm sheeting or plasterboard it will start against the wall and you want the joint to land in the middle of the stud........

Slightly off topic ...... Living in the remote wilds and leading a very outside lifestyle I find that The bathroom upstairs in this house just means people traipse In with there boots through the hall up the stairs and into the bathroom........ it’s a boots on house as that’s the only thing that works. In my last place I build an outside loo It was round ! and it was great and I will be doing the same here when I get the time... this time I’m thinking Tardis or really small horse box conversion..... I personally love an outside quirky loo with a view !

I am in a top spot for a wind turbine, no adjacent property for miles, open to the sea facing south west, with hills on either side that funnel the wind straight at my property. But finding the funds and knowing your spending it wisely are a couple of big hurdles I still need to cross...... anyway back to work.

This thread (as great as it is) reminds me of my time spent with a religious community.... I was very intrigued by their way of life and was trying to see if I had any give in my very atheist tendencies...... one day I was standing on top off a hill with the leaders wife and there was a beautiful rainbow...... the lady asked if I knew how a rainbow was created, yes I said and started telling her how A rainbow is a meteorological phenomenon that is caused by reflection, refraction and dispersion of light in water droplets resulting in a spectrum of light appearing in the sky. It takes the form of a multicoloured circular arc.... she looked at me like I was daft....... no no no she said and proceeded to explain that God said to Noah and to his sons with him, “Behold, I establish my covenant with you and your offspring after you, and with every living creature that is with you, the birds, the livestock, and every beast of the earth with you, as many as came out of the ark; it is for every beast of the earth. I establish my covenant with you, that never again shall all flesh be cut off by the waters of the flood, and never again shall there be a flood to destroy the earth.” And God said, “This is the sign of the covenant that I make between me and you and every living creature that is with you, for all future generations: .... I looked at her like a stunned mullet. This is all in good faith or good humour ..... whatever ‘I enjoyed thread.

Only just seen this thread.... I have riddled soooo much gravel in my life....I mean literally hundreds of tons.....life as a remote area walking track builder....... we make frames like what you have but put it at an angle, chuck spade fulls at it and the big stuff rolls down and the small stuff falls through. Good on you both.

Nice to know, never brought a fake one but the time to try one is coming close.

I have 3 buildings but all close to one another and all being worked on...... so corded is the way I will go for a planer.

..... hmmm that was on my next to buy list....... I read that you really need a 5ah to get some good performance out of it ? Would you buy it again or should I go corded ?

‘I used something similar and it was great, if you hit a nail it’s not the end of the world.... whereas if you hit a nail with your big un then it’s devastating! It’s all about balance...... has this bad boy for years and years and when needed it’s just the best.

I will also say Makita as this is the way I have gone and have NO regrets. but rather than buy a “bargain” job lot with the models already chosen for you I would look at what model of each tool you want and then track them down individually. Tools that your going to use the most (my list) - impact driver - drill - mitre saw - table saw - jigsaw - hand held circular saw - .multi tool - palm router - hand planer and planer thicknesser should be high spec and the ones you don’t use as often can be a bit lower down the spec sheet..... can’t think of the ones I don’t use often........ my piller drill and bandsaw are nothing special and I regret buying cheap here....... i went with the high end Dewalt table saw and it’s bloody fantastic - I tried and ruined the makita one so avoid that. I also went with Triton TRA001plunge router - .mounted in a table as it’s fantastic for this.

You mean the big plastic sheets of a roll that I use are not acceptable........

I think it’s great your going to do it, so much more satisfaction doing it yourself but it would be a real shame for it to become a maintenance pain due to rust so I will also go with onof and say that you should get it hot galvanise dipped after it is built. Looking forward to some photos! I am the worlds worse welder so I will be looking for some good tips !

A few years ago I was digging out one side of my pond...... somone local had a 1 ton mini digger and I got a shot on it. It was way to small for the job but I made it work... due to the short boom I had to do all the work from inside the pond....... I used a lot of pallets at my “bog matts” to prevent the obvious disasters but it was still a bit unnerving as the water was so muddy and the pallets kept slipping on each other...... got the job done and luckily this year we had a drought and I was able to borrow another far to small digger to dig out the other side in relative stable conditions ! I’m glad I did not take a photo during the work but as we all love pics this is of it finished. I dug out the lhs a few years ago and the rhs this summer.