Cpd

It’s easily saved me a few hundred pounds already, I have one of these plastic cyclone heads mounted on a 200 litre drum that’s dedicated to the table saw as this produces a lot of sawdust when your ripping stuff down, again the sawdust NEVER gets near the bag ! It’s like magic !!!! Also have another one dedicated to the router table ...... when you own one you will just wish you had another......

I have got one of these, the GREAT thing about this is that it blows or sucks and has a power take of for hooking up small tools like sanders, planers etc so it comes on automatically when the sander is switched on. I use it on my big table saw and for sucking up building waste and sawdust. The Amazing bit of plastic / drum (buy from Rutlands or some other place but there one is great as you can see when it’s full and if it’s working) Is what goes between the hoover and the the sucking end, it collects about 98% of all the stuff so you NEVER need to replace bags ! It has saved me a fortune and is one of my best bits of kit. I could not be happier with the whole set up, I just join old bits of hose together depending on the job, you can get them for nothing from a dump recycling centre ! Or again buy a hose adapter set from Rutlands or similar. I have put this through it’s paces over the last few years and it’s still on it’s first bag and has never missed a beet. Great kit and I am sure it will do what you need. I have used a whole bunch of hoovers and this one is by far the best I have got.

I used white cement all the time in Australia as we were mixing it with lime and colour oxide to match existing stonework, it was fine to use and did not go of quick. Not sure if you can get it in this country......... I personally would be very cautious about using a white mortar (and white bricks) as it could well start to degrade in colour / get dirt on the joints and look shabby pretty quickly. IMHO

Living on the west coast of Scotland in a wind tunnel i am also in a prime location, lack of funds at the moment but wind powered energy is my end game even if it’s just for fun.... in the research to date I have found that the smaller turbines just don’t cut it and large ones require serious service and my location makes that a non starter.... so one day I would like a small turbine to power some heating and LED lighting in a poly tunnel to extend the growing season........ as I said it would be fun !

I don’t glue in the tongue, it’s just a perfect fit, as the boards are wet they are only going to shrink not expand and the floating tongue allows for continued movement. But your right in that if the boards were dry they would expand and warp as they would have nowhere to go ! always something throwing to trip us up on a self build.......

@Barney12 Hell man that’s is some serious landrover porn !!!!!! I rebuilt my first landrover / every nut and bolt when I was 20..... series 2a and now have the knowledge to pretty much do all the repairs I need from my own humble workshop. Total love affair! Living on an island that does not require an MOT means I can run some pretty old crap and not worry about the madness of an MOT..... though my mainland landy (the grey one) obviously needs to be kept up to spec. The ex Military Police one needs a new canopy now but this is what it looked like a couple of years ago, got a spare axle on the bench at the moment undergoing a FULL rebuild...... again sorry for the thread wobble I will stop NOW ........

Yup..... and they come with special leaking door seals just to keep them authentic........ love them though.

As @Onoff says it’s a pretty poor job.... but it is what it is. I agree about the batons potentially causing some problems but I would not use 70mm only fixed on one side as I think they will lift and look messy, better to fix the 50mm ones through the middle so the fixings go through the gap in the boards as shown in my photo above. You could easily put something on the back of the door to run the screws into. This way the wood can expand and contract without splitting. But again all this is because it has not been done correctly. I have build various doors and the one in the photo below was with unseasoned larch but I put in a big larch Tongue expecting them to shrink and they have been up for six years without fault.

I would use a 50mm wide batten to cover the gaps all the way down and some stainless steel screws. Photo of what it would look like.

Top job mate.

Looks fantastic, nice work mate.

Have you got loads of stone, time to waste and want it to look great ! Here’s one I built in Australia, must have put about 10 of these in this road each one custom built to fit into its surroundings, if the ground slopes away at the end then consider some sort of retailer / spillway to prevent erosion.

No chance of hedgehogs where I live unless they learn to swim.... plenty of otters, they used to come into the garden but stopped when I moved in as we have dogs. Visitors from the sky are quite exciting with a golden eagle about 70 meters above the house two days ago and two peregrine falcons looking for lunch today. Tawny and barn owls out most nights and a regular fly by from sea eagles looking for dead sheep. I am about as rural as you could imagine......

I have just done one of my rooms and put 50mm of kingspan / calotex up below the ceiling and I filled above with 300mm of rock wool. The 50mm insulated calotex / kingspan plasterboard (62mm including plasterboard face aprox... ) would be my preference as a minimal amount as it’s easy to work with, easy to cut etc. And then as much rock wool above as is feasible. I think you really need to think about wall insulation, yes you will loose a bit of space but your heating bills will be so much cheaper ! I am putting in 75mm insulated plasterboardon on my walls. I am sure others will be along with advise but your not I over thinking it, if anything your under thinking it....... you need to insulate the hell out of it unless you want to live in a cold damp house or pay the electric company a shed loads of your hard earned cash every year for the rest of the time your living there.......

So we have talked about bathroom extractor fans on the other thread but i am doing some internal insulation on the kitchen and when it’s done it will be a lot less draughty than before and I want to increase the ventilation. The main issue is when people are cooking, it’s proven impossible to teach them to simmer and cook with lids on pans and other normal precautions to prevent excess steam etc..... so I need to ventilate more. The big problem is that the cooker / hob is gas and therefore I can’t link the extractor fan to an electric switch on the cooker...... I really can’t afford to buy a new electric cooker and induction hob at the moment (just spent my spare cash on 600 trees.....) I have a 100mm pipe installed through the wall above the back door that’s within a few meters of the cooker, electric is very close as well. So i am assuming it will be wall mounted or inline as the far side of the wall goes into a lean to shed that is very well ventilated so no problem pumping the wet air into this area with an inline fan on the far side of the wall. I have been looking at various Vent-Axia wall mounted options but wanted to see if anyone has a recommendation? Humidistat would be the obvious choice but I have not had experience with this in a kitchen environment. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00802LCZM/?coliid=ISTVXZCLZQJU2&colid=1DXZJRROU3VT7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0080GLBNQ/?coliid=I9OXVLMVB0OFI&colid=1DXZJRROU3VT7&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Ok more info if required, any recommendations? Thanks colin

I think you need to do some more research, I assume your after a very low cost housing solution, have you been offered some ground to use or is it a plot your going to buy ? Having done up a caravan, clad it in timber, built a turf roof and about a million other jobs I can assure you it’s a very expensive and time consuming endeavour and in reality I would have been better of doing what @Crofter did. However in my defence it just evolved as a project, grew arms and legs and like most of my projects took far to long.... I would NOT do it again. However I still think there is merit in looking at all options when it comes to housing and what you can personally afford. what’s your total budget, time frames, is there power on site, water, etc try and give us more information so someone might be able to point you in the right direction.

Thanks All - non perfumed and non - thickened standard bleach. Got it

I have installed and commissioned my new water system and now need to purify the system by flushing it with Sodium Hyperchorite 5% however i cannot find the right stuff locally and struggling on line..... it seems to come in large quantities for swimming pools.... and I only need a few litres. @JSHarris having done this yourself, can you recommend something that’s easily available and will do the job ? I may be over thinking this. Thanks

I think this is more realistic, some other points to consider you need to understand the damp issues, many time consuming possibilities how is the roof, chimneys and gutters, is there adequate exterior drainage round the house, wood paneling costs a lot.... is this fire safe / allowed and are all the noggins and stud work rotten ....... reopen fire place, with what as a good wood burning stove will cost you £1000+ and then you have to line the chimney etc redo chimney and build the actual fire place / insulate i don't see a significant cost associated with new insulation........... There will be more...... but a few more things to consider

I would say that I am definitely on my “forever plot” but would not say I am in my forever home ! I am 47 and feel very fortunate to have been able to buy the plot of my dreams, I have wanted to live here from my late teens. One day when the kids are all away and I have regained my finances I would love to knock down my main house and build something from scratch.

Sorry but I am over 3hrs away and on the wrong side of the country. It might help to elaborate what your needs are.

I am in the same situation...... but with three ongoing renovations..... had I known then (6 years ago) what I know now I would have definitely of levelled the whole bloody lot and started from scratch one building at a time. It’s hard to find the positives in my decision but when it’s all done I will have three very traditional looking but unique buildings that fit perfectly into there environment..... but I still wish I had a time machine!

But make sure you can buy off the shelf brackets that will FIT ! Otherwise you will need to strike up the forge and make your own...... that’s what I did....... on another roof I am going to use the fake cast gutters made of plastic, less shiny than normal and will look fine with my slate grey corrugated roof.

I just built (yesterday) a 6m long shelf at 600mm wide and used some left over 22mm chip / flooring board. Had a continuous wall plate at the back out of 3x2 and a big 6x2 along the front with 3x2 ties from the front up to the roof joists at about 1200mm intervals. It’s stacked up with loads of stuff, but it’s really great to have won the space from below. I was walking / crawling around in it and it did not flex on bit.

Bloody hell!..... looks kinda like a sharp turn to come onto the landing strip....... that or they are just really good at it. Either way makes for a good show.