Cpd

I think it’s just you ?..... done correct it’s just fine and it works. It’s an integral part of the velux flashing, you could use a flat flashing and then put foam strips to stop water blowing up if you were really fussed......

On a simple roof like mine where there are no angled cuts it’s possible to not have any cuts showing full stop. However you order the length exactly for the roof length (cheeper to order all one length) you then need to cut down the short sections above and below the velux, this is just a straight cut across the sheet, not along its length. These cuts are then hidden below the flashings, there is a bit of jiggery pokery as you also need the turned down edge to fall into the velux gutter so you need to flip some sheets around to make this happen. Again no cuts required. You adjust the overlaps to make sure the tin that runs down the edge of the velux is a FULL length so NO CUTS. It’s usual to need to cut the tin at one end of the roof but again this is hidden under the eves flashing.... so in short YES it’s possible unless your a total tight git like me who had worked his sheets out to the very last one without and left overs..... and then realised that due to flipping the sheets around I had ended up with one cut edge that I could not hide...... buy a new sheet and plus pay £200 hauling fees.... I could live with it and put it low down hidden by the gutter !

@Visti you’ve got a good attitude mate and you have covered your bases with written instructions and gone above and beyond your duty to provide them with a work area etc. I really hope they come good, if not stand your ground and don’t give an inch.

Errr it’s a flashing and it’s supposed to be on top of the tin..... Just not sure what part you don’t like with velux in a tin roof, these are the ones I put in and yes the lower flashing is not beautiful but it’s functional and I really don’t mind it.

Following with interest as I have my MDPE ending in the house but have got no further, so swapping to Hep2o may be the way to go. Personally not had a problem with MDPE but I did notice the pipe is very slightly oval and not round ! So the inserts are essential. also. I got all my stuff from PIPESTOCK and everything was great quality and very well priced.

It looks about as bad as I have ever seen on a “pro” install. IMHO it’s got to come off and then restart. You will need to repair Any holes where the fixings have gone through the roof membrane with a very good quality tape, easy enough to do. I would also use different fixings as those are the serious agricultural ones and look a bit industrial IMHO. The ones I used are perfect and very low visual impact. As previously stated there should be as few exposed cut edges as possible, on my roof I had 4 velux and on the whole roof I had only one cut edge that was at the bottom of the roof so can’t be seen, I could of had none but I was being a cheep bastard and did not want to cut up a new sheet for the very last bit under the window as I had the perfect off cut ! Totally unacceptable and I hope you don’t have to pay them a dime. The cost of the materials if you got them is going to be a pain but it’s not the end of the world. String lines pre installed across the whole roof is easy as the tin just slides up under them so you can get straight lines for the fixings...... it’s all just common sense and having some bloody pride in your workmanship.

Not me, i have seen half a dozen “professional” tin roof installations and and every time there was a velux window or some other complicated section it was bodged in some way..... that’s why I did it myself, yes my roof is not perfect but it’s better than anything I have seen so far and next time I do one it will be spot on.

Ow man after all the warnings on the metal roof tread we had going....... Sorry to see this, if there is anything I can do to help advise please just ask or pm me. Col

May it rest is peace. Best of luck.

Hi

I used to use a guy in Australia who had a mobile hydroponic splitting rig, pre drilled the holes put the splitters in and hay presto. Also used explosive experts to split granite boulders in the Cairngorms down to usable size lumps...... what are you trying to achieve?

Everyday is a school day. As a stone mason in Australia I had to repair quite a lot of sandstone stonework that had been re pointed with cement as it causes terrible damage.

Hay there Daz, welcome to BH. I was out in the blue mountains (Katoomba) and palm beach In Sydney for 10 years, came back to Scotland 7 years ago. I still wake up in the middle of the night sometimes and wonder if I made the right decision....... I love it where I am but had always intended to switch back and forth as Australia was where I made my money..... 2 kids over here put a stop to that. The days of a disposable income are well and truely over....... when I eventually get this place up and running I expect I will then sleep straight through without glancing back at “what ifs “ your place looks great but bloody hell its big !!!!! Best of luck. P.s it’s probably going to be a good thing that the Wife is tight as a renovation of that size could very quickly get out of control in regards to a well intentioned budget.

Personally if I can afford lead I would always use it, looks great and lasts a very long time. My property is rural and very traditional so lead works well. On a new modern build I expect there is a good argument for alternative materials. Would be good to see some photos from people on this forum who have used alternatives to lead.

@Alexphd1 can you explain your reasoning for putting your roofing felt on in vertical strips rather than doing the whole roof first and laying it in horizontal formation starting at the bottom so that your overlaps will prevent water ingress should there be a leak. I am sure you are following proper guidelines but I have never seen it done like this. Thanks.

I have been using chainsaws my whole life, started at 16 and am now racing towards 50. I buy Oregon chains / bars and sharpen with a round file and take the depth gauge down with a flat file as needed... it’s always worked just great. Have never considered any gadgets as sharpening only takes a few minutes.

Very interesting question, I had one window on a shed that was a problem, it was double glazed and after the 3rd death I put a board up In front of it ! I know this does not answer your question but I think it’s got a lot to do with location as I have not had a problem on any other windows and I have 3 houses in close proximity. I am surrounded by birds as I have a fairly serious / very large wildlife garden.

Come on give us a link then !

I would rig them in a temporary box that you can move around the ceiling if possible and get a feel for how they perform, try to get everything like furniture etc in its right place and also if you have a preferred music chair this should be the place you constantly sit in to check how they sound from different locations on the ceiling. When you have found the optimal placement for your needs, How they sound is the MOST important not how they look ! Then you can see if it’s going to be possible to mount them at that location, compromise can be made from the perfect location to where they can Actually be fitted.

Can you provide a landscape photo of the area from the doors looking up the field? It’s always best to try and stop water at its start point rather than where the problems are showing themselves, I had this exact problem as I have a small glen up behind the house and in heavy rain all the water would come down directly to the back of the house and run through the back door and out the front !!!!! This is when I first got this Run down place. I went up the hill beyond my property and with the consent of the landowner dug a deflection ditch as @PeterW states and this moved the water to yet another drain that fed it into my pond. I then did some minor adjustments to path levels to shed any surface water away from the house to a gutter down pipe drain. Everything has been working well for 7 years. If it’s a rural location I much prefer an open drain / ditch as it’s much easier to see if they are working correctly and it’s a quick job to maintain them with a spade if vegetation becomes a problem. There are other options but some more detail of the situation will help.

Due to potential dust buildup and furniture affecting the performance of the speakers I would personally go for ceiling mounted, but that is just my own personal choice as I am also doing ceiling mounted. Will be interesting to see if we have any sound experts on the forum !

From the very beginning of this thread I was concerned about the lack of detail in the drawings and even more so with the lack of a written down fixed price properly broken down to show what was and what was not included in that price. It’s a very small and simple job in regards to detailed cost brake downs and transparency of what is and what is not included in the contract. I used to undertake contracts worth hundreds of thousands of dollars on a regular basis for very complicated works, it was clear down to the dollar what I was included and what was not, if the client asked me to change something or alter the quantity in any way it was a sit down to talk it through and get it all written down and a signature from us both to approve the changes. i have not giving you technical advice but I have provided you with warnings about how the contract is being run and my concerns about how it could so easily go horribly wrong. I stand by those warnings and still have hold my concerns, it’s a public forum and I am allowed to voice my concerns !!! If you don’t want to take people’s concerns seriously then that’s also up to you but then it becomes harder and harder for people to help as it’s like feeding a forest fire rather than fighting it. From far away it looks and sounds like this contract is destined to go Pete Tong and the longer you ignore people’s warnings and offers of advise the more us mere mortals find ourselves holding our hands in front of our eyes and peaking out between fingers when reading the saga unfold...... I wish you all the best of luck and will let the technical helpers continue to provide you with GREAT information and advise, should I be able to offer some technical advise I will.

@epsilonGreedy great stuff ! My little clachan and it all looks correct, x4 building, garden and pond all in the correct place with the boundary. Thanks

I was more wondering if and where I could buy the updated map for my own interest.

I had ordnance survey turn up here a few years ago (on his push bike) at the request of council, really nice chap who spent a long time recording everything. All went well and nothing out of the ordinary he said. I wonder how I can access what he recorded ?