Conor

The advantage with ICF is that you just continue the same build method from the bottom to the top. I'd you do shuttered concrete, you need to think and detail how you change from that method for the two walls to the rest of the structure.

Ultimately, the same loads will be applied to the ground, and need to be dealt with. So by changing from load spread out over a larger area, to point loads, may result in less digging, but those pads will end up with similar, if not larger quantities of concrete. Savings may be marginal, esp after you factor in re-design fees.

If you've no expansion vessel, the slightest change in temperature or air escaping can make a huge difference to the pressure. Don't worry about it.

The security of these machines is minimal to non existent. I broke the key to a hired Kubota and was able to open and start it with our letterbox key. A small one can be loaded on to a car trailer and gone in a few minutes. Make sure you get good insurance and assume the worst will happen.

Your normal compression waste fitting will work with the solvent weld pipe, not the push fit type. That's how I did all of mine. But I've no idea how you'll hide the fitting. Would be better if you had a push fit bend / coupler in behind the joinery so you can just push the gold pipe in. Can you get access behind to remove the solvent weld pipe and install a push fitting so it sits just behind the finished joinery?

Install an aco / channel drain all along the edge of the house. Gravel would also work, and it reduces splashing.

You just need a preliminary SAP. Should be easy enough from your planning drawings and a spec list (glazing, insulation, ASHP, MVHR etc).

The building control process will cover most of your build quality/competency concerns. Speak to your own insurance company about third party liabilities and what they would require from other parties.

Probably fine, but if they are asking for it to be changed, then a 45° downward bend then a 45° Y junction instead. If it's a backdrop, where's the inspection chamber?

For the walls where we didn't put in steel mesh ties before the pour, I cut back the inner insulation and used galvanised L brackets approx 150x150mm at every other course. I'll put up with a minor cold bridge with 175mm insulation on the outside, losing a strip of 75mm in the inside is preferable to a wall falling down.

Smaller, and triple glazed, roof lights would make a bigger difference than new insulation. It looks like you've some 30-50% glass in those rooms. You could make each one half the size and not make the spaces feel too dark. Cost would be more like €5-7k, and youd properly insulate the reveals. You'll never see the money back on those above quotes. More heating / cooling would be cheaper over a lifetime. I'm assuming the roof lights are of the same generation of the remedial roof works, ~15 years old?

You can temporarily wedge the toilet up on some wooden blocks and slip the lvt under. Assumes you have a Flexi supply pipe. You only need 40mm or so.

Get a couple opinions from roofers. If it is due a strip and reslate in the next decade or so, makes sense to do to it now. Use in-roof trays, keep all the slates, use the best for the roof and the rest as spares. And get a roofer to do all this, not a PV installer Old buildings have these big costs now and again.

I used adhesive underneath and 180mm concrete screws with washers.

Use an air admittance valve and ditch the SVP.

If your joiner has said 900x2090, is assume he's allowed 25mm or so wiggle room. 905mm will be fine, worst case you might need to chip at a bit of wood. I'm assuming this door will be a saving for you compared to a bespoke order?

Make life simpler and better, have it all the one level. Drop one by 200mm, raise other side by 200mm. Keep ridge heights the same. Would it make a big change to the appearance of the house from the road? (i.e. would anybody notice/care?)

I know?! Some people think they sound like a motorway at rush hour or flight EZY665 on takeoff.

Our cool energy 9kw isn't any louder than a large office fan. The only time it's noisier is when on cooling mode, when it sounds like an overboiling saucepan on a stove. But that's like 5 days a year.

Would you not just raise the ground level with stone and pave? Would be a lot simpler and cheaper.

Without commenting on the calculations and assumptions, a 5kW will struggle. If the max output of the heatpump is the same as the heat loss, when it's cold, the heatpump will have to work 24x7 to keep the house warm. So no time for heating water. And if the COP isn't at what the point needed to produce 5kW, then your house won't maintain temperature. I'd be looking at a 7-9kW heat pump.

100% agree with @Gus Potter When we settled for ICF, the first thing I did after learning the basics of ICF, was scope out contractors. There were basically four guys in the entire country that did icf at the time. One was discounted due to not so great reputation. Other was just too busy. So was down to two. System didn't matter, as Gus says it's just formwork to hold the business end of things together. Drawings based on generic ICF and requirement in the contract to meet the required U values, so was easy to send out and get prices. Building again, first thing I'd do is look at what is done locally, and take it from there. Personally, I wouldn't use ICF again, primarily because of the huge embedded carbon figures, I'd be going timber frame, cellulose insulation, with brick outer skin.

I'd move it. Those plastic boxes don't last long if driven over. They may even refuse to install.

Keep it simple, get and induction hob with integrated downdraft recirculating extractor. Lots on here (myself included) have that setup and are very happy. No ugly, cumbersome bulkhead over your cooking area either. Architects are not kitchen designers ...

Compact foam