Radian

The story seems to be that surveyors cannot examine the condition of the rafters. Which is exactly the same for all room-in-roof conversions with insulated, plaster boarded ceilings. I suspect that the excuse is that there is no traceability in the installation process where evidence of an initial examination of the condition of rafters and build-up to external roof covering (felt etc.) prior to installation might not be available. However, I would be unable to provide evidence for that in my recent RIR conversion either. Who knows what's above such a ceiling in attic rooms?

In this other thread... The subject of having to rip out spray foam from a property that was bought at auction reminded me of a story that keeps cropping up in tabloids - people who had 'cowboy installers' spray their attics and find that their property becomes unsellable because buyers can't get Mortgage Companies to lend on account of a perceived problem. How justified are their concerns?

This subject annoys the heck out of me. At the bottom of it all there will be some proper science but on the surface all we ever seem to get is unscientific sentiment. I wouldn't be rushing to rip it all out until I had established a definite need - which might, unfortunately, include being able to sell on the property. But if you were intending to stay for the foreseeable future then it could be performing a useful energy saving measure. The very thing you asked about in your OP. Edit: started a new topic to discuss this:

The cable insulation would appear to be up to it but I resisted suggesting this as the creepage clearances in the sockets and any interconnectors may not be. For our mains voltages I would consider anything less than 3mm between exposed conductors to be unsafe.

200W average over 24H is 4.8kWh so like, 2 hours of 2.4kW resistance heating? I'd hope not!

How much did you have to pay 'em? MOD's MOD's!!! WORM EMOJI ISN'T WORKING!!! 🪱

I had the same dilemma as I'd already run a perf pipe about 30m to drain off the top of my back extension's foundations after water started building up under the block and beam floor. When it eventually came to dealing with rainwater off the roof it was tempting to drop it into the perf pipe because there were no nearby downpipes on the house - but it didn't feel right to be adding to a problem that I'd cured. More trenching it was then 🙄

Yes

4-wire plug-in lead to connector CN6. Probably RS485 so easily extended to bring indoors. Unpopulated CN8 alongside probably duplicates function.

Yikes! That video really triggered my vertigo 😨

e.g. craigandrose.com artisan rust effect Might be worth a try on something...

Pricing up about the same as the unknown supplier, but I've never bought stuff from Superlec before either. At least there's some reviews out there so I'm inclined to give them a try. Thanks.

https://armouredcable.net/ has some keen prices compared to usual factors but I'm wary of buying from a company I've not heard of before.

Adafruit USB C breakout If you desolder those then you might be able to get the tablet to charge from the 5V pins but this may override OTG. At least you could experiment a little further Just put 'USB Type C Breakout Board' into your preferred online marketplace.

I personally regard the USB standards as a 'hot mess'. You may be having USB on-the-go issues. Pull-up/pull-down resistors are added to D+/- inside USB plugs to assert the connection roles between host and peripherals. Usually you would need an OTG cable to connect a USB peripheral to a tablet. If you go back to the working cable A to C you hacked, measuring the resistance between data and power pins might shed some light on the problem you had with the direct connection to the type B.

Yes, vapor pressure is less familiar to most people than air or water pressure. A notionally 'sealed' air space that it cyclically heated and cooled is a complete monster in practice because there is really no such thing as 'sealing' in the building world. That's why sometimes the safest bet is to acknowledge that it's more fool proof to opt for a system that only relies on air being circulated to the great outdoors. This is how its been done for centuries and there's no sign of a 'were you mis-sold a cold roof?' campaign. I hope we never get into that territory with warm roofs. For complete disclosure I opted for a warm roof on our garden room extension and a cold roof for our garage workshop extension. The decisions were driven by a whole lot of different practicalities rather than any ideologies.

Handy chart from Science Direct

Sure but a ducted turbine is going to get even more stuff stuck in the duct! Also tricky to home-brew a decent screw compared to buckets.

You're good to go then. You only want one data connection so you can 'T' in just the power to go off to your PSU.

Few people, certainly not me, have a solid understanding of the hygrodynamics involved. The fallback approach is to make as few assumptions as possible and all the advice I've seen is to err on the side of providing plenty of ventilation. The environment will do a pretty good job pushing vapor though from wetter to dryer areas so keeping places dry is not so easy. Good airflow will mitigate such issues.

For attempt 1. How did you know which of the data lines were D+ D-? Was it because they had the same colours? That might not be the case. Was the Type-C cable you had in your junk box able to data connect your tablet to a PC for example? I mean, if you patched it back together would it work? Same logic applied to Type-B cable would establish that at least there are working data paths.

I was just thinking that if you were to create a barrier (dam) and have a hole for a jet pipe then you can set the top of the dam at an appropriate level and automatically provide relief (overtop) when in full spate. The Pelton wheel is probably the most efficient energy harvester you can build.

Are you talking about a Pelton Wheel here?

This Y cable plus a USB C to USB C?

If you don't want problems with condensation, then I would say yes. But your nogs seem to be the full depth of the joists so when you panel over for the ceiling there's a whole lot of closed-off spaces. Think of what happens to the water vapor in the warm inside air when it gets up to the cold underside of the ply. A vapor barrier may help but they're hard to make perfect when you bore through for LEDs and cabling. Cold roofs generally require a howling draft throughout to be foolproof.