Radian

The COBs are nice for even illumination. I don't know of anything better really. You might have room to lay a pair of wires parallel with the strip to take power to the far end? It really is a matter of trying some as you can't guess how much copper they use in any given product. The width could be a clue but they're usually all close to 10mm.

Why did you orient it that way around? If it was rotated 90' to mirror bed 4 I can't see it would make the room significantly smaller and then the space wasted by extending the corridor along as suggested above would be considerably less.

Looks good. He's just gotta do the rest of it now! Makes me nostalgic over building my garden retaining wall that looks a bit like the above in sandstone and buff mortar. First time I ever laid stone and it was over 30m long. Thoroughly enjoyable to the extent that I miss doing it now its all finished. Still got a ton of stone left over - if I could think of something else to build with it.

Indeed - one of the mitigations I mentioned earlier but, unfortunately for willbish, not available in COB form. Interestingly there's a relatively new integrated pixel IC in the WS28XX series - the WS2815. The first iteration being the WS2811 which is an SO8 IC that can tolerate 12V and sink current for up to three seriesed 5050 RGB LEDs. Then came along the WS2812 which was the first to integrate the RGB LED and driver within the same 5050 package. These have the highest pixel density but can only operate with a 5V power rail. This is a nightmare as the current is three times higher than the 12V tape and things really do go south at the end of a 5m run. But now there's the WS2815 which can tolerate up to 12V per LED. This extra headroom allows for long tape lengths without colour shift/brightness uniformity problems but at the expense of actual brightness. In order to dissipate the higher volt-drops in the IC's the LED current is significantly restricted. Not much of a step forward really but it demonstrates there is a problem in the world of LED tape.

Transistor current limiting in the WS2811 SO8 IC's means they dynamically adjust to the volt-drops, so maintaining uniformity.

There may be ways of 'filling' the light to the ends if you get really unlucky with the cut-points. You might be able to overlap a small stub wired in parallel at the feed-in point for instance. It will depend on how thick the tape is and how much room you have. If your profile has a diffuser that will help blend things out.

Are you suggesting that there are no LED products designed and manufactured entirely in the UK? 😉

It's the uniformity of brightness that is impacted by length. The reason being that the resistance of the copper tracks connecting the LEDs causes a volt-drop that increases along the length. This means the LED's furthest from the cable entry can be noticeably dimmer and show a slight colour temperature shift. 24V tape overcomes this in two ways: the current is halved, hence worst case volt-drop is halved for a given length of tape. Also, there are a few volts extra headroom for the current limiting resistors to operate within which makes their effect more linear. These effects can be mitigated in 12V tape through two mechanisms: the power can be fed in at both ends so causing the middle of the tape to experience the maximum volt-drop (which will be half as much as when fed from one end only) and 'professional' constant current tape which replaces 'dumb' resistors with transitor based current limiting. This dynamically compensates for varying volt-drops and produces uniform illumination. 5m really is pushing it for 12V tape. I have a 2m long tape that I can see is dimmer at the far end. You too are probably doomed (and anyone else reading this) now that I've mentioned it. 🤣

Have you checked on Amazon? Seem to have plenty there and will be warehoused in UK or Europe. May be worth trying Prime if you're not already using it. Might I also recommend going for 24V... it will improve brightness over full length if you intend to use several meters in one continuous length.

Sounds a little bit optimistic if you have some shading. Have you tried using PVGIS to check your calcs?

If you're right that would be bonkers - given that defenestration from a first floor window is considered to be a safe method of egress.🙄

How about a trapdoor & ladder to garage below?

Yes indeed. So WTF did I calculate in my previous our post... Oh, the same 8.6Watts divided by 1000 to make into kWh then times 24*365 to get 75kWh p.a. Should have multiplied that by 30p/unit and come up with the proper answer £22.50 p.a. I accidentallly skipped that bit 🙄 same for smart speakers - more like £8 p.a. to run.

I'm not 100% sure but I think designation as a 'store room' might give it the status you require. The second fix electricals might be hard to justify though.

~£75p.a. @ 30p/unit - still, for comparison, a single Echo Dot or Google assistant would cost ~£26p.a.

Don't know. Fortunately I don't suffer from OCD or anything like that. 😁

Bit of both really. The broken pipe cutting the corner was an old clay pipe field drain. There were several of these, one which must have been cut through by the house foundations. Might explain why I used to see so much water at the bottom of the cavity walls. The 2.5m deep trench for this new extension filled with water overnight! Before we got the concrete pour we had to line with OSB as the lawn just kept landsliding in.

Thanks. That section of hedge was lucky to survive the excavation for our garden room foundations!

Lawn slopes away from the house by 1:30 on this side: Can never decide whether to cut the top of the hedge to follow the slope or remain level?

I've been meaning to tackle a cracked tile almost exactly like one steveoelliott posted above. I also thought I'd have to remove the shower screen because it partially covers the tile but you've suggested cutting the tile which hadn't occurred to me. Do you think this multitool blade would be any good? https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tile-segmented-cutting-blade-89mm/2180v

I do too. I get out my auto-levelling 3D Laser and trim ours until it's a sharp as a masonry wall. Could do without box blight though 😬

I wonder if it's been a hairline fracture ever since the shower screen was fitted - i.e. a drill hole and rawlplug is wot dunnit? Another much less benign cause might be the plasterboard behind blowing out due to water ingress. The PB expands and pushes the brittle tile into failure. You'll know when you get it out.

I figured we were due for a wet spell sometime this month - given the drought we've had down here in April just gone. Ironic how it seems to be the driest month of all.

Oh no, have I left it too late again?!? I was going to sow a lawn last Autumn but events got in the way so I put it off until this year. Having had no rain here apart from about 5mm on April 12th, I've also been delaying this spring.

It shouldn't be at mains pressure as there ought to be a PRV feeding the UVC and cold feed to shower (for balance) but maybe its not working or adjusted properly. Maybe the pump has been installed to overcome restrictive pipework or to feed extra shower jets? You need to know what pressure your UVC is operating at. If copper then something like 2 bar or 3 bar if stainless steel.