BotusBuild

UPDATE: After another attempt with a couple of new Cobalt drill bits, I hired a mag drill and bought the relevant bit for that. Hired it for a days - actually returned it at 11.45am!!

Still building our partially submerged 2 storey upside down house in Cornwall - I'm writing occasional blog entries on here

Meaning they'll go through it easily?

HELP! I need to drill some 16mm holes in a steel I-beam. HSS drills are not doing it. I have some 8mm bits that are going through no problem, but buggered if I can remember what type they are. What type do I need? Carbide? Cobalt? Something else? TIA Stuart

I thought the answer might be Yes. Reaction: Feck! 🙂 "Hey, get those acroprops out again!!" 🙂

🙂 obviously I was having a bad day. Suffice to say the house is the right size 🙂 The price per block was from Nov 2021. The prices went up in March 2022

Do I need to install a DPC under a stud wall that will sit on an insulated concrete slab foundation? The insulation is 240mm thick Jackon Atlas (closed cell insulation), then a Radon barrier and then the 250mm slab

The 8" standard block (96" long by 18" high = 768 sq in = 0495 sq m) The 8" standard block was £63.40 (inc VAT), so per sq m it is approx £128 / sq m

The plastic webbing in the Nudura had no issues.

The one series with an 8" core. FYI- I should have added this was for a retaining wall, so had to add a lot more rebar, and 8 instead of 6" core. Don't forget with Nudura, your insulation is done as part of the build so that is a cost saved 🙂

Just looking at our figures so this pretty accurate - about 94m2 wall Nudura - £12,500 Rebar - £2,000 Concrete + pump - £4200 I put up the Nudura + rebar with 1 days assistance/teaching from the supplier. Concrete poured by others 🙂 So, about £200/m2

I presume the clear plastic thing on the top of the bath edge is the new seal? and the perspex panel does meet it in such a way that the water runs off the perspex, onto the seal and then towards the bath itself? If so, then it needs putting right up against the bottom of the hinge (as per the added arrow), so that the above described flow of water happens all the way - at the moment it seems you have an approx 2" gap where the water can run off the perspex and then both ways - into the bath, or over the side and onto the floor!! When you move the seal to butt up against the hinge I would put a little bit of sealant in between the seal and the hinge (belt and braces)

A laser level and a plumb line are your friends for this :-)

One side concrete, one side glulam beam, two sides 125mm wide webjoists

Will give them a call

Plus a blind when necessary. SWMBO's speciality 🙂

You can apply for a water supply and attach a stand pipe to it. When your ready to, the supply can then be run into the new building.

OK, it seems my dreams far outweigh my common sense on this one 🙂 Thinking about it further, after a short while, I will stop looking up at it and the joins won't annoy me anymore 🙂

Looking at all the windows etc which we hope to get fitted in the new house this year. The one item that we're not yet settled on is the large 4.5m x 1.3m (approx) flat rooflight we have a little flexibility in those sizes as the opening has yet to be formed. The original architect designed for a 3 piece rooflight (3 × 1.5m long panels), but I'd quite like a single piece of glass. Has anyone had or seen a rooflight of the full dimensions (or something close to it) fitted? If so, and you know the manufacturer please can you let me know Thanks

Feeling smug (sort of) as my UFH loops in the slab have never had water in them, even when we poured the slab. Of course, I still don't know if there has been any damage as I haven't pressure tested yet. So not fully smug

A bit of MC Hammer time?

Mike, what make are you 0.8 outside doors?

I've been "chasing" something with U-value down to 0.8, but from what is being specified, even 1.0 seems are good place to be Conor's 0.6 is immense

With the build approaching that "closing the holes" stage next year, I would like to ask what U-values for front doors are your suppliers specifying? I'm just trying to gauge whether I am being too demanding, or over-zealous, about what I think should be fitted, and what is a reasonable ask. FYI - we are prepared to spend up to £3,500 on this door Cheers Stuart

Paypal and section 75 commentary https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/credit-cards/PayPal-Section75/