jamiehamy

I've got the same setup just now (not living in it tho). Cold feed is fine and yes, get water out the hot but not quite as strong (I have TMVs for the hot supplies to some cold feeding through)

Surely the elephant in the room is the lack of a smart grid system - we can't even get Smart meters to work properly never mind be sustainable in the face of technological advancement, so how on earth are they planning putting in infrastructure that allows external control of your/my domestic electrical useage? Talk about running before you can walk!

It does - thank you. I've actually just been to site and back but didn't see this until I got home. I was being a bit thick - the brass barrel does unscrew. I had it in my head it was some sort of captive arrangement so never actually spent time in threading it! But yes, your description is perfect! I'll take pics when doing the final seal and fit and post back up. Thanks again, Jamie

Not really sure Peter. Came from Lusso Stone but instructions are useless generic nonsense.

Pic 3 - inside the tap wall unit you can see the socket for an Allen key. If you put the water on gently and cover the end with a finger the water pours out from the wall unit - I cannot fathom how the seals, regardless of how I attach it to the tap arm.

Pic 2 tap arm. You can see the two grub screws and the brass internals pull out and have rubber seals inside.

Hi all, I'm a bit stumped with this. I'll attach a few pics. Basically, on the tap unit, there is a threaded brass bolt thingy sticking out onto which the tap arms screws. The bolt however spins - and has an Allen socket inside it. On the tap arm, there is an assembly that pulls out after releasing two grubs screws - but I can't work out a - how to actually tighten it to the wall unit properly and b - how the free spinning bolt on the wall unit actually tightens to the wall unit and seals. Am I being really thick? Pic 1 tap wall unit with free spinning bolt. This is the same on the other tap.

Going up

Thanks @AliG. Door is going to be 5026x2700 high (finalised it at the weekend Good to get an idea on prices - not as bad as I feared, although I'd like a pedestrian door built into it.

As crofter said, arguably fibre cement board or a plastic/wood composite cladding may be more durable. I suppose I need to ask - what do you mean by 'durable'? Although it sounds like an obvious question, some would regard (fairly) the look as playing a part in this - hence why more modern cladding is popular because it retains the original look with no maintenance. Many people do not like how natural timber weathers.

Hmm, I'd like to see the integrity of the walls and how the joins form doing it this way - just because it's all hidden doesn't mean it's not important. Whilst I'm no expert, I cannot see how pouring concrete in small batches can be suitable for large walls (getaway-with-able if it has rebar down it tho). After a few courses high it should all be braced - which can be done very quickly with some 4x2.

£480 here for two crew and pump when doing the floor, £680 for additional two crew when we were doing the ICF pour (we did it using a 50m line rather than with a boom).

Another dissatisfied customer here. Would have ended up in court but the company knew better. Only saying to let you know that you seriously are not alone!

I know you'll be thinking this way anyway but first things first - get the area safe then get it fixed and work continuing. Lessons learned to be baked in for any remaining icf. Two years ago we had a bit of a disaster with something being produced. The senior chaps at the company were not interested in focusing on blasting the supplier but rather getting a 'fix forward' in place ASAP. It was a very pragmatic way of working. At the same time of course you need to find out of this should have happened and if anything was missing to safeguard future works. If there has been negligence then the first priority is to get the situation fixed before anything else. If your builder works in the spirit of things with you then that will be ideal but ultimately its your money, house and time. Hopefully this is a case of missing the 'don't leave more than 3 courses unpropped during high winds' part, or something like that. Good luck today. But whatever you do, don't remained peed off beyond today - we've all had these moments, trust us!

On your droopy thing...! We had the same on our biggest window - quite simply I didn't put enough vertical supports on it (3.2m span). I made the window slightly smaller and it all sorted itself when it came to lining it out. You have the chance now to sort it of course but it will never be seen. As Peter said, regardless that frame will need a centre prop.

Thanks Nick. Floor mounted and 140kg empty.

Hi Nick, So none of the 3 are greater than 900mm from bottom of outlet to the horizontal revert. Is this the type of trap I'd be looking for then? http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-antisyphon-bottle-trap-white-40mm/20226 I've had a good check and for the main bathroom, I'm happy having the bath raised anyway with the shower, For the guest en-suite, the soil pipe is in such a rotten location that we'll have to raise the shower tray to get the toilet soil to meet it - slightly unfortunate but not end of the world. In our en-suite it's all fine and shower tray will be flush with the floor tiles. For the bath *arriving tmrw but got sometime before planning to fit) - it's a stone resin one - 4x2 at 300 centres best? This might be a daft question but I'm assuming we tile the whole area under the bath bar the area for the waste connections and then place the bath on top? Don't fancy tiling an oval but the weight of the bath makes me worry about tiles cracking? Jamie

The mosaics we have don't fit the sockets in any way - if we go down the route, we have to cut them out. I can see this far enough tbh!

How odd - that's exactly the question I was going to pose here shortly! I await more responses - we need to cut sockets out. The other half will be mighty pleased if it can be done easily!

We've put in a Slide n Hide Neff - it'll be useful for when you've finished cooking but want to leave it in the oven until ready to dish up without continuing to cook with ther residual heat- slide the door out the road and carry on. But apart from that, it's so cool. I love it Can't wait to try the plug in meat probe we got with it.

Which one is yours?

@NickfromwalesApologies gents, I never saw the responses on here. The floor is a concrete topping and the pop-up soil pipes are not in great positions (but as per drawings). With a bit more experience and confidence in what we were doing (2 years ago now!) we could probably had the right 40mm waste pipes popped up through the concrete in the right places with shuttering, but we didn't (did for our en-suite for some reason!). Although tbf to us, we had no idea what sort of baths or showers we were going to get, although we could have left cutouts in the concrete I suppose, but they weren't in the drawings. Where we are is that we have a 110mm soil pipe popping up we need to connect the showers wastes to(andtoilets and sinks). However, the architect has specified an AAV on both which means we can't connect without a raised floor? - which we actually don't mind anyway, particularly in the main bathroom where the whole shower and bath will be on a step up with uplights. I've attached the drawings for the two affected rooms - red being the room, orange being bit proposing to have a step up. Ayy thoughts? Be gentle!

I've used Trade Direct Insurance. Price was fine and did a 9month extension okay.

Couple of things to check - did you keep the old filters or see them? First thing I would expect on an inspection that resulted in such a drastic recommendation was to see the 3 year old filters... Secondly, did they do any form of inspection of the ducts? It's perfectly possible, although unlikely, they are blocked partially. Thirdly, what checks did they do on the unit itself? Could have a worn motor (again unlikely). The piece around flexible ducting is bollocking frankly - used all over the place. Is the company that did the inspection the same one proposing to do the works? Until they provide more evidence of the problem (taking their airflow readings as read) I wouldn't be dreaming of the planned course of action. I would add that a perfectly functioning system cannot stop a house feeling warm - it can reduce with summer bypass mode but all depends on outside air temperature.

And there was me thinking you had a white board with the daily 'to do' list updated every morning for them!