scottishjohn

so you need to make a clear passage way for air to go from under floor behind the lathes and right up to the loft if you want somewhere for the moisture to evaporate out on well built houses the floor boards stop short of the walls to allow a gap and the plaster to fall into the space under the floor If you intend to remove all the old lathes ect and build a stud wall instead then it it easy to fit a vaour barrier onto the studs after the pir infill , just make sure you have this air gap top to bottom of the house and through the first floor into the eaves or cold roof space my old house was TF with brick outer venitng into cold roof being clever ,as i thought i blocked up the gap at top of wall into roof space the roof is sheeted plywood to my suprise when i checked it after one winter i found the north side of the roof was showing black mould on inside of ply wood unblocked the gap i had filled and it stopped so that is where my understanding of need for ventilation in the cavity comes from are you sure you cannot accept loosing al ittlem ore space on outer walls , and use 100mm studs and then use insulated plasterboard to bump up the insulation smae goes for ceiling into roof space vapour barrier with insulation above and get it much more air tight will you really notice a loss of another 100mm for all the beneifts it will bring very easy job to construction stud walls insdie and between the exsisting ceiling and floors,rembering to cut gaps out of floor boards behind the stud walls if there is not sufficent gap

on your head then you have been informed

when you expose the rafters i would look carefully that they are not rotted at the 4 corners of the roof where the barge boards affix i had to cut them out and graft in bits when i was replacing my plywood soffits . iwas lucky in some ways as the actual soffits were T+g boards ,so icould nail everything to the plywood and old soffit boards very common when only single battons are used as they collect crap behind them and make sonewhere for water to sit single battons to me should never be used as there is no direct path vor water to exit ,just makes dams especially as htis is anold roof using roofing felt ,it gets hard and can disintergrate where its not supported

pictures of this wall please

sounds simple to me its their wall so send them a letter outlining what you know that it is on their ground and if it collapses your solicitor will be sending them the bill to remove the remains from your property by a contractor of your choosing that should do it and spend no nore and wait for the reply ,assuming you can pove what you have just said in your post

start with polythene sheet under where you going to grp it will set fine will take about 2hrs to go off or less depending on how much accelerator you use then copper nail it in place when set that might be a good fix for that complicated area

I would suggest the postion of the wall relative to the boundary will have a bearing on whose responsability it is and who built it to start with If its all on his side then its his problem on the boundary it is shared

correction idid not look closely at what you were proposing i used flat sheet for widows --just like glass the product you are suggesting is corrugated and has lots of support so will be fine i think

I,m quite it would be ok with a suitable frame work to give support but if your thought is to have 1m wide panes and the length of the patio cover with noo intermeadite supports i would say that is too much and would flap when windy ask the maker

I used that type of pproducr for windows in a summer gouse but never for a roof might be too flexible

still wrong , thelintel will be ok buy could crush those small bits under it

It might be easier to stick a piece of piping to the underside of the coping stones away from the wall i cannot see you recreating the groove very easily or of course you could replace coping stones with correct size as these half moons should out past the wall edge what width is the wall and what width are the coping stones and you will see then if them are correctand mis placed or wrong width for the wall you window sills will only have one shape in them as the inside of them would not need it or could it be that coping stones are not central on the wall so one side works and other does not

and you could use this to get over having to run 2 layers of slate on frist row whwich can make it bulky it slates are not consistant thickness https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/continuous-eaves-course-for-roofing-slate-pack-of-10.html?ppc_keyword=&msclkid=a7053c4218ad16b22acc5b570381f501&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pitched Roofing - PLA&utm_term=4575823829934575&utm_content=GRP Strips, Troughs, Soakers goes over the membrane and backs up bottom row of slates you could use at top as well makes a nice job

19mm would be normal gap for bedding it --so maybe a bit more clearance you need to knpw the deflection to work out how big gap for bedding you will need,so it looks right

If you do not use a catnic with inset limestone then a lintel will need to be at least 150mm into wall each side and thick you will need to be very specific on size with stone supplier if you want to set a one piece one in wioth planty of clearance to fit it in as the steek defllects does not need to be thick as its just for show Is this a new build or extension on exsisting stone building

been saying that for 30 years who in thier mind would allow kids to throw petrol bombs at police in NI should have been shot dead and we would not have the problem now too much tolerance of bad behaviour same oges for all the foregin rioters sure it would not be tolerated where they came from they just taking the piss all the time ,then cliaming human rights violations simple change inthe law ,which will never happen anything that happens to you AFTER you break the law is on you how can it be right htat asomeone breaking can sue you for an unsafe roof ,o having glass on top of your boundary wallwhich caused them hurt should not have been on it in the first place

that proves its probably settlement of the founds --so no panic then

no sthil saw will have big enough cut to do a 9 wall" even a 16"one will not cut that deep

your builder is correct If it had been filled with concrete first time and had a decent found it would probably still be ok hollow blocks are not strong and have little weight in them when not filled so get a digger in pull back the soil to below ground level put a foundation in twiice as wide ,at least as the blocks and at least 300mm thick with mesh whilst down to ground level fit a fench drain or juust fill back 30cm with gravel first row of blocks need drain slots then rebuild with concrete filled blocks or use std blocks on thier backs this should give the weight required and make sure if anything it is leaning back to you a little . the only other way i see to repair is to still dig down at yourside and build another wall behind first one with same drainage although looking at it looks just like it never had enough foundation so it sank a bit and split blocks ,allowing them to move ? gaps are widder at top so it looks like the bottom has sunk and oppened up the gaps all guessing games at this point

I think you will find thats to stop electric cyclists etc they could be even more of a hazard if you are met by one on your excursion and lets not forget all the takeaway delvery bikes ,both electric and powered and young neds on those little moto bikes an openable gate with a self closing spring would be the correct solution It could turn into a "rat run" and have 10times the traffic it has now

highly unlikly you.will get away with that if its sagging must be totally sodden and where is all that water going ,what damage to other fabric of roof and what about the rot on the joists below the board? or just use a gallon of roof repaur iiquid if it drys out enough put it off till spring? i am guessing it is a livable space below ? then any insulation will be wet as well guessing its av older house if its been done with felt ,so insulation is probably fibreglass wool which will hold water and spread it about maybe remove section of plastergoard from ihside to look ,as if its been wet it it need changing anyway you can do a rough patch inside once you have looked if it looks sound ,for the winter as said above pictures would be good

1 litre of PVA or SBR,but iwould not do it till you are going to render it

I would go for a dimplex optimyst by choice ,but had 2 and they do not last long ,but the flame effect cannot be beaten ,the other down side is they use 4 or more 45w halogen bulbs to light up the water mist the idea is great ,but not happy with the relaibility

Iwould replace the connectors and then yse glue filled heat shrink tubing over the joint that will be 101% waterproof

you won,t be suprosed that my wonderful wife also has a monster fireplace on her plans for room that faces the balcony made from granite as you might suspect that is definately well down my list of thihgs to do If any of you watched the series "yellwostone" she wants it made like the outside pillars on the house so i wll have to make a granite tumbler as non of my granite is round and look like they came from a river . well down the list