scottishjohn

it is unlikely that it is not repairable --so I bet once its out --assuming its not wraped inconcrete another self builder will take it away and repair it with new pump and media balls --after a suitable power washing out by a septic tank emptying company it sounds very retrivable once the drainfield is sorted but i would not want to share septic system with another house if at all possible--thye could be flushing anything down it and causing problems

fit a new system and do it on your own gorund there is obviously no legal agreement on who pays for upkeep and repairs --big mistake

do you know how it was built ? maybe it was built with aircrete blocks and rendered -- and no expansion gaps - -thats why all modern builds have expansion gaps in the block or brick work and if the mortar was stronger than the very weak aircrete blocks it will just crack vertically where as brick houses usally crack along mortar joints --zig zag thend view looks like it has a mould problem in the render at top but again this is just a guess as without investigation -- without removing render its impossible to say what is going on or if it isa foundation problem and if it has stopped moving now it also looks like there have been alot of extensions to orginal house - was it a self build ? is it same as otyher houses next to it? all depends how cheap its going to be

you need some access to the drainge pipe for when it gets blocked so concreting in where it seems to change direction is not good - myabe you should not be building over it ?

In scotland it is SEPA who advise planning and buidling control- maybe be same in england ? It is there determination that deecides what is allowed had similar but slightly different problem and after consultation they allowed treament plant ,although mine runs to a flowing water course planning +bc had to bow to their decision

look at the vortex system -- download the test certs for all you look at the water quality as far as ammonia and solid is nearly twice as good as bio disc so the water from it technically is drinkaable so if it could maybe be sent to a BIG soakaway along with rainwater ,which will clean it even more ? do you have psace for a seperate soakaway ? and even better its half the price

or add extrs smaller joists joists in some places to make sheets work or run sheets other way with bits nailed in between joist for edge support a bit of thinking at start should cut down amount of extra PB edge supports needed like maybe cutting some boards into stripes to get you back on the joists eg cut first to 36" then then an 18" strip to get 54" then same again lots of ways just a bit of buggering about on paper to see which is best way

so you using 6x3 palsterboard then Idid not know they made pir pklastergoard in 6x3

may not be applicable i was in same postion at back door so I built a wall then put block and beam on top and finished off with paveeing blocks never gets wet i did drill a few small drainage holes in retaining wall so water did not gather up below that was 20 years ago and still fine a quick shot out of the window

don,t forget to fit the lead valley in lengths --NOT one piece about 1.5m each bit and overlap them this will stop any problems from expansion of the lead when roof is hot also easier to get a long valley looking good

It could be a little better than washibng up liquid ,but doubt its a game changer

they will go inwith the ratchet strap method of that i,m sure --not sure iwill be able to swivel them if needed

how long has it been exposed to sunlight --anything over a few months and the UV strts to break it down

straight lengths --no problem its the bends which are brett martin --a very well known make ,that the problem is on

as far as i can see all different makers only supply one type of seal for straight joiners and bends but the bends are alwasy a tigher fit on pipe than a straight joiner but different makers have different shapes

Ihave come ot the conculsion that there ideed by different seals for fitting bends ,as Ihave 2 different shaped ones now --will follow it up and report

this is what I have come up with use one smallratchet around pipe to ancor another one then do same around bend then pull them together need another man to do it so cannot do it today also showing water flow today --which is just above average summer flow-1/2 tp 3/4 full in winter

I have a serious suspicon that famers do not use the seals --I say that cos the last ones had green surface mould on them -- and they cost more to use them and if you just using them as field drains probably not a problem --any leaks will probably seal up with the mud and sand that come down them over time

could you be more expnatory of what he actually did ?

I,m working with a live water stream as well

tried all those things -- just too much pressure required to compress the seals to make them go in even just fitting the bend direct to pipe are quite tight so twisting them is a no go really so my next trial is to use some huge "c" type welding mole grips to try to work them in a bit at a time --gripping onthe ribs on the outside and the lip of the bend--I hope the ones I have managed to get in take all my body weight to swivel them round to change the angle maybe htere is some special tool to compress the pipe and bend together --other than the hulk

Iknow i,m getting old and weak . but has anybody got a good trick for fitting bends using the seals I cannot gte enough push to make them go in striaght joiners --no problem but the bends are a tighter fit and just will not go inwith seals fitted

things you can do with a 3ton digger and decent dumper and my ground is allclay+rock and quarry waste so you can a alot with practise

If you got tree roots to rip up ,even a 5ton is abit small if the tree is over 15" diameter --lots of knibbling at roots around it before you will get it out . I do not know of nay hire company that will supply you a ripper blade ,whivh is what you really need to get stuborn roots out , my site with lots of old ash and beech trees which started off as hedge 15-24" -took all day with a 7tonner and ripper to get them out and htat after iahad assaulted them with a 5tonner the week before If you don,t need them out now --cut them down drill hole instump and fill it with weedkiller and go back in a year or more when roots have died back a bit --lot easier

they certainly do --to high and narrow not like my old benfoerd its wider track than the digger and it don,t complain when filled with granite --which is alot more than 3ton -- but its not hydrostatic drive its clutxch and gears and simple 30-40 deegree tilt no problem, your modern 1 ton --is very easy to tip it over not for sloping sites