scottishjohn

how long ago was it you did this as newer type of tarmac is a chemical setting type-doyou cannot haet it like old tarmac and use it again that is my worry that newer types of plannings will not bond together as older type which came from an old road made with real tarmac thanks for the replies boys as for cost, quite cheap here £15 a ton if you collect or £100 a truck load ,so I am told

as title what experience deos anyone have of them over time and how thick can you lay them so they will not move about with traffic

been here on my present house when i made an ensuite from an built inwardrobe and some of the bedroom I made the foolish assumption that the wall, as it was plasterboard would be flat in both directions my solution was to use lots of tile adhesive as a basecoat to get it right once i had removed the tiling to start again the lesson is assume sod all and check before hand with a long straight edge and repair anything first before starting and is why a professional will always want to use self levelling before starting to lay a tiled or LVT floor as the planks are very thin this was 20years ago and I made same mistake when useing 600mm floor tiles in living room 6mx5m bigger the tiles the less tolerance you have to get edges correct again in a rush to get on and we were living in house as well it started off fine but as i got across the floor it got worse and the thought of wasting half the tiles and time repairing it after removing tiles --I just carried on and got more bags of adhesive I ended up using twice the adhesive as it should have done it get it right the house was not new and the chipboard flooring and joists were not level and had bowed between the joists and probably not helped by me sinking UFH pipes into the flooring and sheeting with 6mm ply over top to put strength back in floor and this had been running UFH with carpet over it for a couple of years -- I checked it when I did the ufh ,but did not check again before tiling we all live and learn

seems to me this is a problem you brought on your self by not keeping them to the boundary in the fist place good luck

that will be internal walls which are dried from both sides from heat in house for 100years the outer walls are different as one side can be wet +cold and other heated by internals of house and thats where you will get condensation if the dew point is reached kile the inside of a single glazed window on a cold morning. I doubt you will have any DPC in a victorian house so thats the other place capillary action from water in the ground sucks it up which is why we have a DPC to stop it happening and why with no DPC it pays to have ground level outside house a lot lower than floor l there was reason why expnsive big old houses had steps up to entrance level, even if they did not have cellars to keep floor joists etc well above any rising damp from the foundations as genaral rule rising damp will only go up to a metre maximum on modern house with concrete floors etc the floor level will always be at least 150mm minimum above the ground level outside if not then lots of french drains and pea gravel to soak away any water from the walls look at the detail for dpc under a slab and where it finishs inside the walls above the floor level into the walls usually where the outer wall DPC is and your TF kit starts on dwarf walls

you do not need air bricks ,and air bricks should be ducted through both walls to under side of house to vent under the suspended floors ,not just in outer layer to make a draft up the cavity just let it happen naturally --warm air rises and so takes moisture with it and we are talking about an old house which we want to dry out or keep it dry at back of wall as for fire risk you fit intumescent fire stops which only expand if there is a fire and blocks off the cavity as for getting condensation on VCL--thats shows your insulation is not good enough and or lots of air leaks through it -if correct the insulation should stop any chance of condensation assuming you are not hydroponically growing weed inside

so you need to make a clear passage way for air to go from under floor behind the lathes and right up to the loft if you want somewhere for the moisture to evaporate out on well built houses the floor boards stop short of the walls to allow a gap and the plaster to fall into the space under the floor If you intend to remove all the old lathes ect and build a stud wall instead then it it easy to fit a vaour barrier onto the studs after the pir infill , just make sure you have this air gap top to bottom of the house and through the first floor into the eaves or cold roof space my old house was TF with brick outer venitng into cold roof being clever ,as i thought i blocked up the gap at top of wall into roof space the roof is sheeted plywood to my suprise when i checked it after one winter i found the north side of the roof was showing black mould on inside of ply wood unblocked the gap i had filled and it stopped so that is where my understanding of need for ventilation in the cavity comes from are you sure you cannot accept loosing al ittlem ore space on outer walls , and use 100mm studs and then use insulated plasterboard to bump up the insulation smae goes for ceiling into roof space vapour barrier with insulation above and get it much more air tight will you really notice a loss of another 100mm for all the beneifts it will bring very easy job to construction stud walls insdie and between the exsisting ceiling and floors,rembering to cut gaps out of floor boards behind the stud walls if there is not sufficent gap

on your head then you have been informed

when you expose the rafters i would look carefully that they are not rotted at the 4 corners of the roof where the barge boards affix i had to cut them out and graft in bits when i was replacing my plywood soffits . iwas lucky in some ways as the actual soffits were T+g boards ,so icould nail everything to the plywood and old soffit boards very common when only single battons are used as they collect crap behind them and make sonewhere for water to sit single battons to me should never be used as there is no direct path vor water to exit ,just makes dams especially as htis is anold roof using roofing felt ,it gets hard and can disintergrate where its not supported

pictures of this wall please

sounds simple to me its their wall so send them a letter outlining what you know that it is on their ground and if it collapses your solicitor will be sending them the bill to remove the remains from your property by a contractor of your choosing that should do it and spend no nore and wait for the reply ,assuming you can pove what you have just said in your post

start with polythene sheet under where you going to grp it will set fine will take about 2hrs to go off or less depending on how much accelerator you use then copper nail it in place when set that might be a good fix for that complicated area

I would suggest the postion of the wall relative to the boundary will have a bearing on whose responsability it is and who built it to start with If its all on his side then its his problem on the boundary it is shared

correction idid not look closely at what you were proposing i used flat sheet for widows --just like glass the product you are suggesting is corrugated and has lots of support so will be fine i think

I,m quite it would be ok with a suitable frame work to give support but if your thought is to have 1m wide panes and the length of the patio cover with noo intermeadite supports i would say that is too much and would flap when windy ask the maker

I used that type of pproducr for windows in a summer gouse but never for a roof might be too flexible

still wrong , thelintel will be ok buy could crush those small bits under it

It might be easier to stick a piece of piping to the underside of the coping stones away from the wall i cannot see you recreating the groove very easily or of course you could replace coping stones with correct size as these half moons should out past the wall edge what width is the wall and what width are the coping stones and you will see then if them are correctand mis placed or wrong width for the wall you window sills will only have one shape in them as the inside of them would not need it or could it be that coping stones are not central on the wall so one side works and other does not

and you could use this to get over having to run 2 layers of slate on frist row whwich can make it bulky it slates are not consistant thickness https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/continuous-eaves-course-for-roofing-slate-pack-of-10.html?ppc_keyword=&msclkid=a7053c4218ad16b22acc5b570381f501&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pitched Roofing - PLA&utm_term=4575823829934575&utm_content=GRP Strips, Troughs, Soakers goes over the membrane and backs up bottom row of slates you could use at top as well makes a nice job

19mm would be normal gap for bedding it --so maybe a bit more clearance you need to knpw the deflection to work out how big gap for bedding you will need,so it looks right

If you do not use a catnic with inset limestone then a lintel will need to be at least 150mm into wall each side and thick you will need to be very specific on size with stone supplier if you want to set a one piece one in wioth planty of clearance to fit it in as the steek defllects does not need to be thick as its just for show Is this a new build or extension on exsisting stone building

been saying that for 30 years who in thier mind would allow kids to throw petrol bombs at police in NI should have been shot dead and we would not have the problem now too much tolerance of bad behaviour same oges for all the foregin rioters sure it would not be tolerated where they came from they just taking the piss all the time ,then cliaming human rights violations simple change inthe law ,which will never happen anything that happens to you AFTER you break the law is on you how can it be right htat asomeone breaking can sue you for an unsafe roof ,o having glass on top of your boundary wallwhich caused them hurt should not have been on it in the first place

that proves its probably settlement of the founds --so no panic then

no sthil saw will have big enough cut to do a 9 wall" even a 16"one will not cut that deep

your builder is correct If it had been filled with concrete first time and had a decent found it would probably still be ok hollow blocks are not strong and have little weight in them when not filled so get a digger in pull back the soil to below ground level put a foundation in twiice as wide ,at least as the blocks and at least 300mm thick with mesh whilst down to ground level fit a fench drain or juust fill back 30cm with gravel first row of blocks need drain slots then rebuild with concrete filled blocks or use std blocks on thier backs this should give the weight required and make sure if anything it is leaning back to you a little . the only other way i see to repair is to still dig down at yourside and build another wall behind first one with same drainage although looking at it looks just like it never had enough foundation so it sank a bit and split blocks ,allowing them to move ? gaps are widder at top so it looks like the bottom has sunk and oppened up the gaps all guessing games at this point