scottishjohn

If you have 3bar of pressure why do you have header tanksfor water system ? only reason for a header tank is if you have a vented hot water cyclinder filled fromit with a ballcock ? and a back boiler or something otherwise everything would direct off the main

grp all the way

yes you can forget a decent grp roof for 30years +

yes you need a step down from house asit would appear that the garage is connected to house it will need fireproofing onthe ceiling of the garage as well especially if you are building over it and yes it is for the possibility of a petrol leakfrom the burning car which could set on fire and then run into house

yor going to need acompletion cert and elctrican cert anyway -- so I do not think you need to do so you will need to do a "buyers pack "if you come to sell so that would cover it

its what I have done 1phase for house 2nd phase for garage 3rd phase for expansion if iever build the holidays lets

unless i have been lied to --again you always have 2 "strings" of panels each string ir wired in series then the 2 strings are in parrallel you cannot have more than 2 strings on one invertor so I am told its when it comes out the other end of the 3phase inverytor it splits up the load -not on the input

having just been through a solar installation i can answer this fairly well I am too old to be going of roofs now so nooption but a professional job I already have 3 phase cos the difference inprice for my supply was only £1000 to do it as for how professional the salemen are that whole other story Iwas very happy with the actual engineers who did the job and they stood up well to mt grilling into all the technicalbits of the system and the dno /export systems as for what you put back to the grid you can send back 3.8kw per phase without any problem --they have to let you do that amount --no argument above that it needs agreement and adifferent permit from the DNO that will take time so you need that all sorted out and warrantied that it will happen before you push the button on a bigger set-up and give them some money - If they will not do that --change your supplier --they are cowboys the DNO judges what you send back by the size of the invertor as its maximum is the max that can be sent back continuosly the other thing is if you go for a 13kw=invertor it is classed as commercial -so your installation will have vat added pleas check this before making decision I was going for that when the 2nd supplier worked out he could get30 panels on the roof as ithought that it would pay back well inthe "shoulder months" they all seem to use "open solar" software which takes a view of house from goggle earth --but it is not scaled exactly --so thats what happened to me --when they came to do it they had the rails onbefore they saw that they could not get the 30 panels on !! an opening for a discount !! or get all your junk offf my roof and put everything back as it was to start with the resulting deal was another battery for free which took me up to the 17kw an old saying in scotland --"when you see a stick --cut it" I went for 26panels which gave me 11.7kw and the invertor is a 3 pahse smart 11kw and 17kw of giv batteries panels are the cheap bits and if doing it yourself you will not be allowed to send back more than 4kw total - unless you get it certified by an approved mcs installer you need an mcs cert -which you then take to your supplier to get an export M-Pan number you need to check carefully that the batteries you are getting will comply to get a bigger KW export cert . ocotpus only like giv batteries --but there are some they willalow onthier tariff --check which if you going octopus Iwould suggest you talk to ther suppliers before signing up I found they ALL lie to certain extent on things and do not be afraid to tell the others you look at what sig have siad then you will find like me all the holes in the quotes for example when asked they said bird gaurds are std fitment --not so they wanted to charge extra -- a dull chance that happening with me had to get them to alter the contract to include them remeber when you sign you are comitted just make sure your quote has all these things clearly marked I had one supplier who told me exactly what panels and invertor were going to be and when the quote came --the make was"to be advised" and another salesman told m the reason why they always specify a smaller invertor than the ouput of the panels is that the invertor takes 1.5kw to run it I rung up GIV energy and spoke to the tech man who pointed me too the spec sheet-- it takes 15w to run not 1500w so do not believe half of what they tell you do your homework also warrnaties for panels,invertor and batteries check with the maker -- for example --giv invertor has 12 years -but if you do not get and mcs cert and one of thier apporved fitters its 5 years lots of bobby traps -solar panels sales are like car sales used to be in the sixities .LOL- some do not include scaffolding in the quote and add it on

If you seed it you will have to cut it and maybe it will get damaged with building works I would leave it till you are done then weed kill it and level out and sow it then you could strim the thstles +nettles in between time

exporting without a battery you are going to be stuck with low rates lookat octopus FLUX you can fill up your own battery between 2 and5 in morning for 4.42p and sell it back to them later inthe day between 16-1900 hrs for 27p--even in wnter when your panels are not doing much it could still be a big winner you need to check your postcode cos the rates are different for other parts of contry I would not have gone for PV without a battery --thats where you can start to make the money back

Iwould worry that it is too thick and will take foreverto dry out Icould be totally wrong just when mine was done it took 6weeks with underfloor on to get down to the 3% moisture the floorers wanted to lay stick down LVT and that was after they had ground it all to get it toally flat but the final job showed they knew what they were doing best trade on the job by far that floor is made up from hundreds of little bits only big bits are thesquretiles -even the border is seperate bits

Iundertsand what you are sying ,but I can from experince that is not the case when i did my tero underfloor 25years ago ,very littlechoices and ifno was about so I routed all the cipboard floors --1km of them amdlined the groves with foil and then covered it with 6m ply -to put some strength back in in it the piping was Keetriple tube --a rubber syatem whereyou have 2 feed pipes and one return all fixed together to make a 10mm thick and 30mm wideassembly Ithen covered underside of floor with space blanket 40mm thick asI had spce to get underfloor --not bad but there were elaks as its just not possible to get it air tight On top of the floor i use my old axminster carpet --they could not tell me what the tog value --nobody had ever asked that even with the underlay it worked--not perfectly but worked ok just took time to vcome through 3 years later i conveted to a tiled floor the main difference was the speed in the temp change In some ways that type of system could be looked on as better ,because you are not heating up a BIG slab then if the days are not consistantly cold you do not get any overheating of house I know that maybe a novel idea to most --but we live in a country where the daily temps can be totally different ! day to the next the upstairs i did what this man has done and it was not a success as hot air leaked out the ends of the joists and keeping it up tight to the floor covering was not good oor easy at that time i was using a solar thermal cylinder 40 panels along with an lpg boiler it worked OK then later on iwent for an ASHP which worked out better as I saved the total cpost of the lpg but In sumatiom Ishould have saved myself alot of grief and fitted and over floor system in the first place.but there were not many out there then to choose from a mistake on my part ishould have gone that way I still like solar thermal -but the downside is the cost of storag no problem getting enough hot water for the year --butyou would need a swimming pool in the basement- kingspan tech calculated for my house ,after giving him all th info that i would need at least 15000litres for it to work and that would be 3buffer tnaks with different temp levels to get everything the sun could do through out the day and building aninsulated tank that big would not be cheap Idid have some problems caused by lack of storage with the solar--#look at tank temp at 8.00 inthe morning --17c --after running underfloor all night by lunch time on a summers day the t300litre tank would boiling ,as i hade specified non regulated vacumn tube but it just shows there is heat in the sun even in scotland --problem was lack of staged temp storage

If iwere doing it again iwould use what they have inmy new house for upstairs in your case for all of it https://theufhgroup.co.uk/products/tekwarm-foiled-400-kpa-ufh-board-1200mm-x-600mm this is covered with t+g cement board , thats the heat sink,then floor covering of choice total system thickness will be around 40-50mm mount directly onto your origina lfloor boards you will have no air leaks to underside and insulation as well and ump the upstairs rads if you want to do it all you can doall that and still live in the place just need to trim your doors

I concur habing done a similar job on old house you will be loosing the heat to drafts andlack of hard contact to the floor. the insulation needs to HARD up to thespreader plates and pushing thepiping hard onto the floor so no quick fix for this rip up floor and do it right then you need to balance the flow of the rrads ,cos water will go easiest way --so turning the flow down on them might help as well thr UFH will never heat up to same as rads and really rads if are original ones from gas boiler will not be big enough --cos of the reduced flow temp from ASHP--genrally they need to twice as big ,cos tmep from UFH will be around 30 and temp fromgas boiler to rads would be 50+ so they need to be much larger surface area to give same heat pout put Iwould not worry too much onthat at this time you need tosort out the downstairs FH problems first and then later you can maybe chane upstairs

taking into account all said above the simple answer is build a fence on the boundary ,then they have to set back their wall or destroy your fence --that will be a clear case of trespass how close is your building to the boundary -will there be an issue if maintaince is needed by either party ? I certainly would never build closer than 1 m from boundary i understand in towns space is at a premium --butwants to be at least some gap or that will maybe stop some expansion plans you or next owner might have and how high is htis wall remebering founds need to be twice the wall width as a general rule--which means they will be right over the boundary and could preclude any expansion on your side later and now is the time to make a stand -not once building starts I have been through this in a commercial application and it started with the deeds of both properties which had boundaries in different postions due to the properties being old and the descriptions in the deeds of the boundary so that stopped everything for some time whilst proper surveys were done--but it did get legal and eventually a surveyor had to knock pins into the ground to show the agreed boundary I am guessing your deeds are not 200years old as mine were --so should have actual dimensions of them ? so as i said to start with iwould be errecting a wall or fence onthe boundary line and he then has alter his plans --unless he will move his wall back its all a game of poker in the end and if you can hold him up he might become more sensible on placement of wall

thats not going to do alot for the view Ihad an eagle owl on my workshop roof to stop the seagulls and rooks going on it and dropping things and crapping on the sales cars lined up in front -- it worked for a while -but they got used to it going to try kids toy windmills in plant pots --hopefully that will deter them

this the thing most people would notspot the difference between ravens ,rooks ,carrion crows and jackdaws the only members of the corvid family that are obviously different are magpies and jays but all of them would go for soft old fashioned putty for sure my widows of ocurse are modern double glazed the prime thought is they are attacking thier own reflection but how to stop them without iradication

windows been in for over a year and all of a sudden I have suicide attacks mainly on the big bifolds by ravens to such an amount that they are drawing blood and leaving windows covered in birdspit =blood and below them piles of shite I witnessed one attack whilst we were having an evening meal ## this was two ravens attacking together ,til i got up and waved my arms about ravens are supposed to be the smartest birds around last night ,when we were not here they attacked the front one again even though there is scaffolding in front of it ( forsolar installation) and again left blood on the window the first obvious solution is shoot them # but they are a protected species ,then they are also very cunning and getting in range would be a very hard job with a shot gun so anyone had same problem and a suitable solution

giv energy batteries have a 15years warranty worth a look made in uk

will ring them and find out

I cannot find anywhere that covers it maybe me not searching gov.uk correctly

as title what do you know boys

a bit late but from my dealings with openreach and me fitting my own ducting and junction boxs --max they will go it is 150m -as the "cobra" they use is 160m -no bends within 2 m of the end you are working from and they supplied me with all the stuff and nice slow 90degree bends that are a tight fit on thier ducting the boxs how ever are major over kill need to dig down 400mm --and in my stoney ground to fit them and they have a concrete lid --so they use same for everything that is going into a footpath or road way waiting for them to come and csble it now -but they still will not direct to fibre --copper first then fibre later it is political decision of thier part ,so the fibre team do not get billed with ducting etc-or thats what i am told

my guess is YES as its already been extended got to be worth a conversation with planning before you do anything

why not tank the inside?