scottishjohn

A guess on my part the walls will not have a damp course in them and no doubt rubble infill so they will act like a sponge and suck moisture up from ground and if roof is not good ,maybe water going down into walls from there as well

yes but not for PIR

look again you can get 6" long blades https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T313AW3-3-Piece-Special-Materials/dp/B001J0U1HC

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-T313AW3-3-Piece-Special-Materials/dp/B001J0U1HC

or maybe you can rent a pro hot knife -to buy they are £2-400 can cut up to 300mm some of them

Iwould make an extrra large base plate for jigsaw --so it keeps it sat right angle to foam -bit of ply fixed to std jigsaw base.

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/power-tools/power-tool-spares/replacement-saw-blade-set-200mm-foam-cutters-2607018011-pk-2/p/ZT1219266X

hot knife? or a pupose made foam cutter blade for a reciprocating saw

and air bricks as well

it was when my house was built

the drawing shows garage floor same height as house --no step shown --that will not do -must be lower

make sure you bury it deep --at least 750mm to 1m- deep-then ground should be a consistant temp in Uk could be cheaper+simpler just to run uninsulated cold to garage -then an inline water heater?

pretty sure you will need alot of thickness+ fire proofing in ceiling of garage and fume proof if over a garage in case of car going on fire also garage floor will need to be lower than house so burning fuel cannot run in as for long runs of bedroom floor joist --close them up and fit more of them ? your architect will know

my guess is that sanitary is not expecting to be very hot --so heat loss and possibility of freezing is more of a problem ,so more or better insulation on the sanitary pipe Uponor is probably leader in this stuff and you can get one with a trace heat cable built in -so it will never freeze https://www.uponor.co.uk/products/heat-and-water-distribution

that would apply to most parts of scotland i think plenty of other parts of scotland that are very nice and uncrowded without being too far from civilisation as you know it

anyone have any knowledge of requirements in Portugal on sewerage my brother is buying a house there and it only has soak-away --not even a septic tank I suspect, but am trying find out if there are changes in laws that will mean he has to upgrade to septic tank or treatment plant

If you get it now -then add extsnsion -you need to tell RHI and they will recalculate - Soithink you are screwed --get plans to EPC man and see what it works out at - then get quote from MCS approved heating engineer for cost of system then get quote from one that is not MCS --guessing it will not be worth going for RHI grant a house that is close to passiv --the amount you get for RHi is very small - so usually cheaper overall to get non MCS man maybe book a visit from "the energy Trust " -adviser --thats free

upgrade of exsisting house to get maximum RHI grant you need to get an epc NOW before improving things --then improve after it is passed- there are online calculators on RHI website for working out what you will get if you got your EPC you will not be able to build extension to epc "D" rating -- If still confused get a man who does EPC rating -to advise

then I,m out of date --no suprise there --it used to be -- maybe why it don,t work as well as it used to --it has been made for over 40 years anyway

no argument with your post but kurust has a high lead content--not just acid the idea being everything else is converted as you say and it leaves a coating of lead on top of that as well and any acid on aluminium is best avoided correct primer for alloy sheet is an etch primer to start with before actual real primer coats --the acid in it makes a good bond for the actual primer coat --so acid and alloy--not my first choice ever

that has a phosphoric acid base with lead --which turns most things black as it deposits the lead -thats how it stops rust by coating it with lead

used to get same problem when fitting after market glass sunroofs if fitter did not cover entire roof with a sheet except for where the jigsaw would make its cut the small particles were hot when they landed on paint so burnt into paint surface --so very hard to remove without rubbing Isuspect if it is upsetting you then rubbing will be best way with maybe coarse "scotch brite pad"+ water -maybe the inside of gutter has a coating --like pure alluminium -that you cannot easily see to stop it corroding --so acid treatment sounds a bit agressive to me

mines easy --just use the one it has had on OS maps for 200+ years --even a much shot all metal sign still there --will get a new one at some point kirkmabreck house thats one decision less to make

I am guessing you have concrete+ insulation below the pipes? If not then what and screed is just the finishing coat

maybe me - but if you are wanting to stop noise in the rooms with tv +hi-fi from spreading then surely you should be putting any sound insulation in those walls at point of noise production stop it spreading before it gets to bathroom --then you bathroom can be usual mositure proof set up with no other complications ,which might not work