Mr Punter

Some of the manufacturers are more adept at exaggerating the performance of their boards.

Thirty quid for a couple of grands worth of render.

A most of the timber frame breather membranes are flammable, which just does not seem right.

Yes they are broadly the same.

With the first mix the lime won't make it much whiter but it may be a better consistency / easier to work with. Can you make up sample batches?

Can you just form the arch in brickwork and use a normal timber frame lintel with cavity tray above?

Can you see if Network Rail have any suggestions as to which engineer to use?

Option 2 shows the spurs connected mid way between sockets. The junction boxes required would need to be easily accessible. It would involve stripping and terminating 8 cables. Option 3 only involves 4 cables.

Yes concrete.

Extractor fans in bathrooms and shower rooms to expel the moist stale air plus trickle vents / wall vents in bedrooms and living rooms to allow fresh outside air in.

Yes, outline planning means you can build there and you could raise finance and so adds a fair bit of value. You can get an environmental report on contamination, flood risk etc.

It looks like the ebay one comes ready to go. Be warned that these can sometimes catch in the material and twist your wrist. When it starts cutting, just adjust the speed and pressure so it makes decent progress and clears away as it goes. You will see when you have the right balance of pressure and speed. Wear goggles too as an eyeful of swarf is a bit uncomfortable.

Without 150mm insulation you should have a rethink. You could put UFH in the extension and rads elsewhere, but on the concrete floor it will leak loads of heat.

I have used Marmox blocks for the first course on top of the steel plate. Probably better than nothing.

You can fix the ties to the column with screws or shotfire Hilti nails. You may need 1 every course. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/wall-and-frame-ties/staifix-spb-frame-cramp-200mm/p/252309

Yes. I have used the TG4 stuff and left it for about 8 months. 1 screw per board max. Similar number of sheets.

"All domestic customers have a 1 year satisfaction guarantee on their domestic units. If you are not satisfied, you can return the product within 365 days of your purchase for a full refund."

Yes, I think the netting would help. Have a word with the site manager. If they don't play ball, contact Environmental Health and HSE.

Unbraced gables are quite vulnerable to collapse in high winds. Ask @ToughButterCup.

If the scaffold is 2m from the boundary it is not likely that any debris will fall onto your land. Sparks from grinder would mainly come from cutting metal, not brick or tiles. They could reduce dust by attaching a hose if it is a petrol cut off saw.

Hooks work really well and hole the bottom of the slates. They will still need copper nails in a few places.

I think you may be able to save a few to use on a shed or porch. Your other option is to remove them yourself and carefully stack them. Slates cost less than £2 each.

If you specify low iron glass you won't get the green tinge.

I think they are proposing a wraparound type extension, which would not be PD. I think you can do the back bit and the side bit but not the bit that joins them. Not sure how to make the roof work nicely.

I don't like cantilevered glass balustrade. You can't lean on it comfortably or hold it. I prefer a stainless handrail on top. Funny, with timber handrail and balustrade, the BCO will never ask for calcs or BBA certs. At most they may see if it wobbles or deflects excessively.