Jump to content

Mr Punter

Members
  • Posts

    8326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. I have done a feature brickwork fireplace directly off beam and block. The floor designer specified multiple beams for that section - something like 10 together. We could have done extra footings for similar cost.
  2. You may find studwork is easier.
  3. You will be OK with thermalites. You can't rest the roof joists on them though.
  4. I doubt it is holding anything up. Take out the coving and some of the plasterboard at the top and have a look. Beware of asbestos in this age of house.
  5. I think it will need packing out. You could use the Marmox type boards which are lightweight and easy to cut.
  6. I doubt the mix will make much difference. I have seen tests on some of the batch mortar and it can sometimes be a third of the advertised strength. The DPC is annoying but survivable. I assume the inner leaf has a proper DPC and if so you should not notice. If you do have issues you may be able to rake out the 25mm and repoint using waterproof mortar.
  7. That TLX stuff is pretty flammable. Try holding a lighted match under it for a few seconds. Be very careful with plumbers torches etc.
  8. Most commonly you would just trim out the floor joists and infill, plus provide electric to the location. Installing and maintaining a lift is expensive. If you are wheelchair bound it would be very dangerous to be upstairs alone when the lift fails.
  9. Perhaps you could submit the previously approved 2 house scheme so you buy some time and have a valid consent. Later you could even start the construction so the consent is locked in.
  10. There is quite a gap where the door opening is. Maybe it should have handrail and toe boards either side!
  11. 3 trestles and 4 planks.
  12. You could just build a lightweight timber frame to support render carrier boards, like Bluclad. You could screw into the underside of the arch for support. You can then mesh / render the whole thing.
  13. OK here is photo example of some "work" that was carried out on a tenanted property we own. Not surprisingly I refused to pay. They were supposed to renew the lead flashing. He persisted in trying to get payment and threatened to come back to the property. We politely said he would not get any money from us and it would be harassment and criminal damage if he attempted to visit the property. This guy has 100% positive google reviews and his modus is to get the customer to write the review while he watches them. There are some right cowboys around. This was a £450 job:
  14. Criminal damage carried out by morons. Not big or clever.
  15. When we have done car chargers the sparky did them in armoured cable.
  16. I think running the cable internally would be better. I don't think you are not supposed to run cables in the wall cavity, which is what your batten space is.
  17. I have a bad feeling about this one...
  18. You are best approaching piling firms. So much depends on access, location, temporary v permanent. Mobilisation could be £2k.
  19. March last year, so yes.
  20. Nothing to worry about. Just rake out, repair and paint to stop water getting behind the render. You could give it a tap with a hammer to see if it sounds hollow.
  21. These cracks are fairly common. On a new build this can be reduced by adding a couple of rows of stainless bed joint reinforcing above and below the openings and using a mesh with the render. For you it is just rake out the cracks, fill with sand / cement and repaint.
  22. I have seen similar on a shower. The tray was fitted, then tiled and grouted, then the screen fitted, then all siliconed. The tiler leaves out the grout around the top of the bath/shower so it can be siliconed after the screen goes on. When the screen profile is fitted, the small bit at bottom ends up with no grout or silicone. You need to take off the wall profile (a bit of a ball ache) and either grout or silicone the bottom, then refit.
  23. No, take out at least 1 course of bricks from the old wall and insulate to the same depth as the rest of the floor. 25mm insulation will leave a cold strip.
  24. I have used the aluminium copings with overhang on clad walls which works well as you don't see the ventilation gap at the top. 20mm overhang.
  25. I have just done a free resubmission.
×
×
  • Create New...