Mr Punter

I don't see how you can have any timber frame where the flush patio doors are, as the frame needs to be 150mm above ground. All you need under the doors is something rot proof with good insulation that is strong enough to support them.

My word @vik2001 what a situation! It seems you have got planning consent, your neighbour? did some ground works, you had a falling out, you have not got the funds to finish the job? But you are asking questions as if you plan to complete the work? I think if you give us a straight up version of where you are and what you want to achieve you could probably get some sensible answers, otherwise it sounds a bit spammy.

Yes if it is a new build and on the entrance floor building regs require it. Part M

38 x 89 @ 600 ctrs and 9mm OSB is fine. Nail the OSB @ 300 ctrs. Use treated timber if you want it to last.

Perhaps a bit silly to cut the wire. I would be pissed off that the timer doesn't work and that seems the main point. Just ask the builder or sparky to get it sorted. No need for WW3.

@Pocster! Quick! A nibble!

Is there a loft you can get into to inspect?

Robin Clevett the youtube chippy likes to use Cutwrights for this sort of thing. Maybe give them a go. They are well regarded.

I think your broker has it right. Although others will say that a warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, the value of a new house can be drastically reduced without one.

Get the lintels in and fit shuttering either side of where the pipes are going before you cavity fill.

I only need the 30mm one. I could probably borrow one. I may even have one if I rummage around in the lockup.

I thought that but they were fitted with an impact wrench, which I don't have. I think I would struggle to undo them. I only have an adjustable spanner that would fit. It is an M20 bolt. There are some good ideas here but I don't know what will be best. Double nutting, castle nutting, half nut, loctite, do not trim, spray with Galvafroid... I may try using my adjustable to see if I can loosen one of these, then look at my options.

I have some steelwork and most of it will be covered by the ceiling / resilient bar arrangement, apart from a top plate and some bolts. The bolts project about 30mm and I wondered if I could trim them flush with the nuts to reduce the impact when it is boxed in, or is it a no-no?

They look pretty crappy. Trustpilot is not keen either: https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/link2home.co.uk

What you have shown looks OK. You may be better going through the wall with the shower wastes and connecting them to the SVP with a boss rather than using the pipe from the WCs, which will likely be too high in any case.

Also, consider a dehumidifier, with the condense pipe plumbed in so you don't have to mess with emptying it. It doesn't waste any heat in the winter and you can dry your washing with one.

It can feel very hurt and sometimes become tearful when subjected to criticism and scornful remarks.

It always worked for Arthur Daley.

I don't think it would be great, but should be acceptable in most cases. No good if you are near a busy road. There are lots of routes for sound into a building and more likely through windows, doors and roof.

0.25 W/m².K. But you can get to 0.18 with 25mm internally, so 227mm total wall thickness.

With timber frame you could have thin coat render onto carrier board, 15mm total, 25mm battens, breather membrane, 10mm sheathing board, 140mm timber frame with 120mm pir insulation, 12.5mm plasterboard and skim, so a total wall thickness of 202mm. If you wanted better u values you could use an insulated plasterboard.

Do you really mean a 350mm cavity, or is it a 350mm wall with a 150mm cavity? If space is tight it will be worse when you render as the poles will need to be pulled back off the building. Have you ruled out timber frame?

The kerbs, edge courses and cutting look well done so they know what they are doing. It is only the colour match that lets the job down.

Fire curtain is mental for a dwelling. OK for commercial, like on an escalator for a high end retail store.

So each time you use the loo, if only for a wee or the basin to wash your hands, the saniflo motor will kick in loundly. Good luck if you ever want it to be like a proper, habitable space but probably OK compared to a dirty stinking portaloo.