Mr Punter

I have never seen one of those before. It seems quite expensive as a drill attachment. If this is the only slate roofing you have to do, why not give the normal hand cutters a go?

Can you widen the access, even if only temporarily? We had a site a while ago and the only way to get a crane near was to block the road. We got cars and vans past by building a ramp up to the footway in type 1 so they drove half on road, half on path. Probably not strictly legal but it got the job done. Some drivers got a bit stressed but a wheelchair user was upset when we later removed it because it had made her access easier.!

Hello and welcome. If you have sufficient money, a decent builder, a site that you already know well, planning consent and finance in place you have dealt with most of the tricky bits. Are you living on site during the build?

I would have this somewhere fairly focal with a glass door. Alternatively you could set it into the floor in a corridor under some beautiful walk-on glass.

This thread had lots of info:

If done on the inside, if the ground floor is concrete there should be no issues there. The first floor depends on how it is built. You will need to detail carefully around hangers. With services, I would think it was easier to parge after all required holes in the fabric have been made.

Bin lorries and deliveries may also be an issue. They will need a proper unobstructed turning head at the top as well.

There is no inside and outside leaf with solid walls. Just the one.

Fuse still be OK.

Is it easier to use a breaker, then make good?

This may explain the damp issues in your other thread. Any mortar will be better than the crack. Does not need to be strong or hard.

If you had a full structural survey and it was possible to see the damp and the raised paving without intrusion you may have a case but you have waited 6 years so I doubt you have any chance.

If you think the fence was erected 4 years ago and is on your land and she does not live in the other property, just erect a fence where you think it should be, take the other one down and let her take action (expensive) should she wish. When faced with the actual legal costs most people will not bother. It does beg the question why you did not do this straight away?

https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=4

Potential £££, time and much pain. And £££

It will be a pain to get a neat cut. Probably skin your knuckles tying.

10mm seems excessive and may look crappy. As long as it is just visible it will be OK. Could see no mention of 10mm projection in NHBC. The drawing shows a slight downstand, which will not happen with the stuff on a roll.

Yes this needs stripping and replacing. Probably some structure as well if it is sagging. Did your roofer give you a quote? He knows what he is doing.

EPS is tried and tested. There will be a sweet spot on thickness and it could be the 70mm your builder suggests. Normally stuck on plus some mechanical fixings, then thin coat render / mesh. Moving the windows outwards towards the insulation is helpful.

Should be stainless. It is worth just getting some. If the membrane is on and you have scaffold it is a fairly quick job.

Can you not fit a staircase? And some edge protection. And tidy up.

Won't be much fun lowering that down and getting it out though

This can also be a real pain with timber frame where the openings are already there. Bricks and blocks can vary considerably in size.

We recently had a bench made in birch ply. I like the look of the lamination.

But when you run over them with a telehandler they crumble to dust.