Mr Punter

Regarding the gutter, if leaves and debris are allowed to build up there will be an issue, no matter how big the upstand, especially as this is not an external gutter. Do you have a regime to inspect and clear the debris? I had issues with Velux and a zinc roof, partly caused by the architect specifying 2 rooflights for which we did not have correct planning that we subsequently had to change and bodge with inevitable leaking. A right PITA. None of this should stop you cracking on with the rest of the build though.

Zinc roofing has become fashionable but decent zinc roofers are few and far between. With rooflights, you often need to solder. I would stick with what you have, get the facias, flashings and gutters on and the rest of the outside complete with scaffold away before the end of summer. Get a new zinc roofing contractor and get your windows and doors ordered and fitted.

Well done for finding a solution. I was surprised that the material cost is less than double sand cement. Let us know how you get on.

The L shape is loads better. The original plans based on a rectangle made no sense for the shape of the site. You can modify the L shape to suit the space you need. Sensible to build min 1.0m from boundaries. You need some decent floor plans developed from this. Don't get too hung up on the garage.

Could be a durgo valve stuck. It is not easy to work out where a smell is coming from. Does the soil system hold an air test as per building regs?

The principal of building a house is already agreed. What was on the outline application? They normally have some sort of drawing, so they could see what was being asked for in terms of no of storeys and bedrooms and proximity to boundaries. Lose the porch if it upsets them. Just do a reserved matters application and don't make it controversial or flash looking. I would aim for about 1400ft2. Have a look at

If the red line is the boundary you would need to get an easement from the neighbour to allow fascia and gutter overhang. You may do better with an l shape on both floors by going further back for part. +1 Allow for wider external walls. More storage, less glass.

I do prefer to have them as escape windows as it is easy to leave a door open and compromise the stairwell. Nice to have another option.

Why not fix a ledger board to both walls? Do it with resin fixings.

I have has this issue before. If you can do a pitched roof it will be much better and lower risk.

Sounds a lot to me, assuming materials are 40% that works out at £645 per day. Get at least 2 more. Cheeky sparkies.

They may want to see a plan with the connection point marked. There is a template for a connectivity plan that you can complete.

The space is so small you will not be able to move around. You need some ventilation up there but it is not obvious how to do this. Is this going to be habitable space?

£9-15k. 3-4 weeks. Google. Get 3 quotes and off you go. Report back how much they were.

I couldn't get their site to display. Probably too many cookies / spammy. Good pic of Tower Bridge. What room is it in?

Is this a wet room? The sink and shower are very close. Maybe move and rotate the shower:

The damp is coming from the stone wall. The stone is porous and getting wet from rain being blown against it. You could coat the wall with StormDry, take off the plasterboard, wait a year or 2, then replaster. If the wall is stone under the plasterboard you could leave it natural stone.

If you don't like concrete (as it is prone to fading and looks like concrete) have you looked at clay paviours? Keeps its colour well and looks good for years.

I have seen it where the Chairman suggests that the last 6 applications are not controversial and recommended approval by the officer so proposes that they are all voted through at once without discussion.

It looks OK. I would ask chatgpt to redraft / make suggestions. How may m2, what thickness insulation and why EPDM?

Lay them down on some trestles to do the drilling and bolting.

With PD applications, they take the max ridge height from the highest point of the ground around the building. Is there a planning condition requiring further details on height?

I cannot see and issue with noise from the pipes. The thermal expansion noise from plastic pipes is normally from the welded ones. If this is below ground drainage they will be push fit. Push each fitting fully home, then pull out 5mm.

Maybe grind off any high points first. Clean the floor and prime with SBR. If you can't return the compound you may as well use it. You may need 2 coats for the thick areas. Work out how much you need before you begin. I have found levelling compound a struggle to use so I only do small areas, like mat wells. Probably just needs practice.

If the outer leaf is rendered, the chance of moisture getting in and tracking through the cavity must be very low, but clearly your warranty provider is a stickler. Maybe they have had claims on the full fill insulation? On most housebashing sites you are lucky to get continuous insulation at all. Nobody makes much effort to keep the cavity clean.