Mr Punter

You will probably not get pulled up on this. They often allow a maximum 100mm leeway to work in with brickwork. If it already built you don't have much option. If not, just do as @DevilDamo suggests.

You could try another fabricator. They have over 30.

I don't understand where the pressure switch would fit in. It is normally float type switches for these applications.

Yes, start with a header one end and alternate with each course.

I have an investment property where access to the back garden can only be gained via a basement flat. It is a right pain at times.

If we assume that you have 30m3 of soil to excavate and remove, a micro excavator will make the digging easy. A week with a decent operator plus a labourer may do it. If you have space at the front, make up a large 4 sided enclosure from 18mm OSB and 4 x 2 to store the spoil ready for a grab lorry, or just pile it up. Wheelbarrow through the house. I would budget max £8k but you may get it done for half that.

The thin slithers of slate at the verge are poor but I assume he was reusing existing materials? Dry verge slate system and some barge boards needed.

If the render is solid I would leave it. Just scrape the flaking paint and repaint.

You could chase it into the brickwork.

@flanagaj ask Protek for a quote for building control. Saves the need to get a second surveyor.

I have never seen a gabion like that. They are normally formed with a series of cages, filled with stone and wired together. You will probably be looking at 1 metre at the base. Even for a conventional brick or block freestanding wall with mortar and foundation it would need to be 215mm thick.

Out of interest, what was the repointing cost and square area for the wall?

I have found that there is no clear cost difference between aluminium, ali clad timber and composite (like Ideal Combi and Velfac).

It is normal just to cut them back flush with the frame. Removal should be difficult as they should be tight and often foamed.

I have used Hi Tuff cable for external wiring in the past. It is more flexible and easier to fit and terminate than SWA.

Well hopefully this will serve as evidence to dissuade others who are considering RWH in their home. A water butt is probably the extent of what is useful.

Permeable paving. Marshalls Tegular or Brett Omega?

22m I seem to remember.

The rise and going look consistent and easy for outside steps. There should be a handrail both sides.

With the drip tray as long as it directs water away from the building it will be OK. From my first view it looked like it was going between DPC and blockwork but I see it is l shaped. Traditional screed would be 75mm.

A few things: Is this habitable space? Will it need to meet building regs? The waterproofing does not look very robust. A proper tanking membrane would be better. The drip tray flashing may act as a tray to hold water which would rot the battens and frame at the bottom. The sole plate should be min 150mm above ground level. Taped joints in the Celotex is not a great VCL and a sheet of polythene may work better or in addition. The 50mm screed would need to be liquid as it is too thin for traditional s & c.

Once it is scraped back and repainted it will be OK. I really hate ivy when it gets anywhere near a wall or fence.

SE was a good plan. What is the wall supporting? Hopefully you will be able to add a decent amount of insulation under or on top of the new slab.

I don't understand the question. Normally these are either treated softwood capped with PVC or aluminium or all PVC or they are durable timber (oak, Sweet Chestnut etc).

F gas regulation is law.