Mr Punter

Is that your Mrs again?

Smaller stuff can get stuck in shoes. Don't lay it too thick!

Assume 10mm tile, 15mm adhesive, 15mm door mat, 5mm clearance, so 45mm to the underside of the door leaf?

A pragmatic end to this. Well done for not caving in. Hopefully the rest of the project will be less stressful.

Cheapest would probably be timber handrail and spindles.

I don't understand the diagram. I thought the tank inlet and outlet would normally be towards the top of the tank.

This is sometimes automatically triggered when there are more the x objections. The fact that it has an existing consent is a huge factor in your favour. Before the meeting, make sure you have sight of the officer's report. If it is not 100% in your favour, get a planning consultant or your architect to attend and speak on your behalf.

Be very careful with your wording. Terminating the contract brings to an end all obligations from them. If instead it is Determined, they may still have liabilities such as defects etc. Be careful here as either way this could trigger legal action and it it very easy to get on the hook through a technicality.

Could you fit any external perimeter insulation? It would involve excavating a trench around the house and filling with EPS insulation. It could marry up with your proposed 200mm EWI.

Did the neighbour get trapped under the soon-to-be falling mixer? 34 years on and the paving still looks good. The pictures are a tad homoerotic, but that was standard back then.

@Conor did a walk out basement in ICF.

Are we too late to suggest getting rid of the timber floors and replacing with an insulated concrete floor with UFH?

Basements really can be a huge challenge. The more underground, the more problematic.

If you have several to do, the glazing robot sounds a good idea. You may need to spend a while prepping the ground.

You could fit a bidet. Not fashionable here, compulsory in several European countries. Easy to freshen up without getting undressed.

MPR / OCR is good stuff and can be painted. Rendaid is very good as a base coat for poor or mixed backgrounds and is very sticky.

I don't think you can still get imperial sizes in plasterboard.

Anything that sticks will do. Masking tape, gaffa tape. Just to stop getting mastic on the stone as it is difficult to clean off.

You may need tissue faced insulation but it can be pricey. It may depend on the membrane.

If the gap is deep, push in some foam backer rod so it is set back about 10mm, then use a joint sealant like Sikaflex EBT+ from a mastic gun. You will need to mask the stonework. It isn't the easiest to finish but does a good job and stays flexible.

The preference is to keep all the timber on the warm side of the insulation. I would go firrings on the decking, then another support layer of decking, VCL, insulation, waterproofing, sedum system.

Some closeups would be useful. I can see a tiny hairline crack in the padstone and the first mortar bed but not much else. It looks like this is a junction with another wall so you may have a few more perps than otherwise. From what I can see, nothing to see. Unless the padstone is taking an unusual load or on on the existing / new junction, I would leave it as is.

My final attempt:

I drew it. I am shite at bricklaying though.