Mr Punter

Like this? Cut block are coloured. Flat blocks laid mum and dad. A bricklayer might have a better idea though!

£298. Discharge all of them at once.

Can you screw a metal angle to the back of the threshold that rests on the top of the concrete?

You can run your pipe as steep as you want. 1m depth really is pretty shallow. Ask Thames Water, but a 1m trench is not the end of the world.

I hope the developer is well funded. Have you checked their credit rating? Often the warranty firm will go after the developer to get reimbursed. Some set up a SPV with very little capital. Is this a warranty claim or or against the developer or both?

I don't think the adhesive is critical for this. Just pour the beads in.

It looks like some of the board was used in the outer leaf!

Crikey re-roofing is a fairly big undertaking! Unless there are big gaps in the insulation, I am not sure that adding 40mm of insulation when you already have 150mm will make a huge difference. The issue is more likely to be air leakage, like from around openings into the wall cavity, so make sure you foam any gaps in the underneath layer and pay attention to insulation at the wall junction.

If the insulation is hard up to the battens it can be an issue. It is best to leave 25mm so that any water will run down the membrane and will not get trapped by the battens. If the roof is counter battened, this will be enough. Are you planning to strip the whole roof to do this?

Before you go much further, have you had an airtightness test to discover where any leaks might be coming from? Seal up the opening to the house so you just test the extension.

Under is much better. You can temp remove the sink and WC while they fit the floor.

Well done. I have some friends that run a green waste site near you. It seems a bit silly asking for landscaping details on such a small site, especially as you have already specified the driveway, parking and paving materials, and with the house that accounts for 2/3 of the land. The lavender hedge and trees are outside the redline, so maybe they want some more planting inside? Any fencing or gates planned? Ask them. There is no rush as it is a before occupation type condition.

The trouble is that lenders, insurers and surveyors do not see it that way and spray foam is considered high risk. They don't differentiate between idiot cowboys spraying badly onto the underside of slates and perished underlay on an old knackered roof and an install to a new building, properly detailed, designed and applied.

What a pain. Photos please. You may need planning and listed building consent, party wall agreement and structural engineer involvement.

I have heard this from some people where although the floor may be rated for 30 or 60 mins, the steelwork within the void is treated differently, but I have never heard a coherent reason why.

Sorry not paying attention, so on the outside like @Iceverge said. S/S straps, screws and eml.

With no vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation there is nothing to stop warm moist air migrating through and condensing on the now colder wall. Absolutely crap design. BTW I saw in their "system design guide" several references to a "high mortality seal". I have never heard of this. Does it kill people? It certainly has a good go at killing dwellings.

Well if the pipe is leaking your idea of sliding 10mm inside should work fine, unless it is completely crushed and kinked.

I doubt the continuous pipe runs have failed. Test each run, find the suspect and report back.

I don't understand why this has come about. Normally, existing structure is considered OK unless there are obvious defects.

Some of the slabs look like they need levelling and repointing. The render on the table supports looks like it was done by me. Overall it is not great but I have seen worse. - How much hardcore stone should have been installed on top of soil? All the topsoil should be removed and dug down to the subgrade. Depth depends on soil type. - How much mortar should the tiles been layed on? About 50mm solid bed but this would not be permeable. - Should there have been a fall towards the steps/away from the house Yes with a channel slot type ACO drain installed linked into the main storm water drain? Not necessarily - Should the steps being formed with blocks with the tread/risers cemented to them rather than what they have done? Slabs would be supported on risers built in brick or block. Often infilled with type 1. - Should the planters have been formed like the have, is that an acceptable detail? Not sure what the issue is. - How should drainage been achieved at the lower back? If you mean the ACO against the house, it is common to see, especially when the paving is less than 150mm below DPC. It often doesn't go anywhere or collect significant water, but it acts as a barrier rather than having wet sand or soil against the wall.

Whoops sorry IdealCombi. My mistake. Very similar to the other 2. Owned by the same group.

Gable might look nicer. I assume this is single storey onto a 2 storey. Any windows or awkward bits above? A photo would help a lot.

If that is a double garage it looks like you could get 4 straps on the front wall plate. That should be fine. You can confirm with SE or BC.

If he was contracted to connect the surface water to a surface water sewer it is not acceptable to connect to the foul. He should either rectify or you withhold payment. It sounds a bit late in the day for this to appear. Connecting surface water to foul sewers is a major cause of sewage pollution in our rivers, lakes and seas.