Mr Punter

Don't make the finish level too high. Leave it so there is still a brick exposed under the air brick. I doubt you will have space for your proposed materials. You could just have weed membrane and shingle.

It may be possible but could look rather dire.

Lift and re-stick the unstuck edges, sand down any lumps and reline the whole wall before painting. If you strip paper on an old wall there is a chance of taking off a load of powdery plaster and before you know it you are rebuilding the foundations!

Can you just add timber to the side of the existing joist with some timber screws to make it wider? Hopefully a chippy will comment more usefully.

I am no expert but I don't think you get PD rights until the main building is finished.

Fix via floorboards and noggins where needed.

I would go white or light grey. Needs properly coating but even so you will be up there every 6 years to redo. How did you sort out your downpipes in the end?

+1 a decent architect will add real value to the project.

The glue is quite expensive but too much can apparently be worse than too little.

EWI can work OK on buildings with nice large expanses of wall. With the curved bays, projecting window, porch and being semi detached, yours (at least from the front) does not look a good candidate.

Where did your topo survey show the hedge?

Go on... don't be a tease!

What floor is it, what thickness and how did you install?

Looks like they did, with Super Skunk.

The cement board cladding, like Hardie, Cembrit, Marley etc. is expensive. Probably over £50/m2 with battens, trims and fixings. Render on blockwork is much cheaper, even if it is posh stuff.

No. The building industry has been de-skilling for years. Most people on site are average at best.

If those handrail brackets stand off 100mm and their shadow is 2000mm, the shadow exaggerates the imperfections 20 times, so a 1mm deviation or lump shows as if it is 20mm. I don't think anyone could get this looking good with that light.

You have a space for a new MBC. My charger has a C80 but I imagine it depends on the charger spec.

If it is recessed lights the holes are best made after the ceiling is skimmed and painted. Obviously you need to know where the wires are and mark carefully and accurately on a plan.

I would have thought he would prefer to skim first and leave it to the sparky to make holes after, as long as the wires are not poking through.

Surely not! Grinder and SDS with chisel blade (or a wall chaser). What multi tool and blade works on 7N blockwork for a 2m chase?

Get the ceilings plastered, painted, second fixed and snagged first.

No. Use an angle grinder.

I think a big combi could work well. The modulation on the Navien seems good too. Would a cold water accumulator ease the pressure drop issues?

Raising your ffl above the flood level can be a requirement. I think @Russell griffiths did this.