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Whats the pressure reading below the red tank?

Understandable with many things but not CIL. If CIL is applicable then it's applicable and as a self builder you need to take action before construction starts to get your exemption. This forum unfortunately has multiple cases of people not taking action early enough and getting caught with huge bills. Confirm with the council before you start anything, getting this wrong could be the biggest unplanned cost in your project.

From the horses mouth: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/record-breaking-auction-for-offshore-wind-secured-to-take-back-control-of-britains-energy It's more like £140 (gas) and £91 (new commitment) according to their figures. Surprised me as both seem very high compared to the numbers that I'm used to thinking about. Later in the doc they say the prices are often stated adjusted to 2012 prices and in that regard the wind is £65 which sounds much more in line with what I was thinking.

Also, assuming you have an 8kw ASHP, it's unlikely to draw any more than 3kw outside some unusual scenarios (assuming a well designed system). Normal operation should be much less than that. Electricity in should be less than 1/4 heat out (COP 4+) except during hot water cycle. So it's easier to generate what you need on the relevant phase. Assuming you have 3phase solar then the ASHP will be on one of the phases.

I thought the air sealing externally was for hot climates where you ran AC inside and want to stop the moisture getting in. With our climate we generally want to seal from the inside out. Still might be useful concepts here though. Edit: Matt is based in Texas

AFAIK Accoya is thermally modified Pine. So not a hardwood, but the modification process means it should be very resistant to the elements and should outlast almost all wood species.

I laughed but then felt a pang of guilt that @Pocster is always at the arse end of jokes. I'm not even sure I get the joke as I've read a lot of the threads on here and don't feel I've read about what must be a hell of a story. 🙃

I think there are two problems. 1. The pressure loss from the ASHP water system 2. The leaking tundish from the potable water side of the system I'm not sure if we have seen enough info yet to be sure.

If this is related to using the immersion then don't. Using the immersion is worse than using the ASHP to heat the water at this point.

Indeed and that's the bigger problem, though not directly (I think) linked to the pressure loss in the hot water system. Overpressure issues triggering safety systems much more urgent than loss of pressure. I would guess so but listen to the experts here not me.

Don't think I've seen anyone else mention this yet so I will. A small leak like this is all thats needed to drop the pressure in the system. I'm guessing this pipe is part of the DHW heating loop though wider photos would confirm. Unless I'm mistaken, until that dampness is solved I'm not sure it's worth looking for other issues.

Not talking a pro one. Lidl were selling them last year for not much (though duty cycle of these things means you'd need to take regular breaks for it to cool down). Similar can be found on ebay. Should be a load faster and quieter doing that than chop saw. Pretty sure you could find an angle.

Probably crazy, but what would it cost to crane it out? Investing time and money into a 6 month temporary solution is gonna add up. If it has to go then this might be cheapest. It'll get recycled anyway so not too much of a waste. Might be worth investing in a new toy (plasma cutter) rather than a chop saw though.

Welcome! Overall looks like a nice plan. I am curious what's driving decision to dedicate so much of the space to the master dressing room? I would have thought a smaller dresser and a 3rd bed/office would be a better use of space (and more saleable if circumstances change). Alternatively, a layout that allowed some of the dresser to be made into that extra room without significant rework. I assume you wouldn't have got this far into the design without serious thought into this so really curious to hear your thought process.

ASHP + water fancoils can do the same as ASHP + refridgerant fancoils. ASHP + UFH cooling can't. ASHP + water fancoils has the benefit that it can also do DHW heating but will, I believe, be marginally less efficient than a refridgerant system*. Most large offices and industrial sites will use water systems as refridgerant is expensive and hugely environmentally damaging if it leaks so it doesn't make sense in big buildings but is cheaper in small scale installations. It is incorrect though more in understanding the context of when it's been said. I think you've mainly seen it said here in relation to systems that either don't want to go below dew point (to save extra effort in insulating all the pipes thoroughly) or because the system fed under floor systems that indeed can't compete with fancoils. * Because of the restrictions on use of R290, it's possible (purely guessing) that a water based R290 system may well outperform an older R410 refridgerant system. Probably not a modern R32 system though.

Clearly it's not for you, but just in case other people are looking, you can make wiser be dumb as a brick scheduler and thats all. It also lacks some of the more advanced smart features of others.

Though having read the OP now, Wiser doesn't seem right. All the thermostats, etc, are wireless (though not wifi). What I said was in relation to the main controller that sits next to the boiler. Not sure it would be a good idea with ASHP either.

Wiser works without the internet connection after being initially set up. I believe it's also possible to completely configure it through the Home Assistant add-on without using the Wiser app (going through the registration process) at all, though wouldn't recommend that. It was good this xmas to be able to turn the heating back on at home in advance of getting back after being away a few days.

Or thickness? Cheap addon options for conventional radiators exist on Amazon (or other) and do work to a degree, but they won't perform miracles. Another option to think about is if you could replace the radiator with a proper fan coil unit with thermostat control. You could likely greatly increase the output from the space your existing radiator uses assuming there is a similar sized fan-coil available. Not cheap though.

Given money is tight I just wanted to check that the quotes you are getting are coming out at zero cost to you? ie, the heat pump, hot water tank and install are all covered by the £7500 BUS grant. Given that you already have the UFH installed the BUS grant should cover the rest.

As a last resort there are some pull down TV wall mounts that allow you to mount the TV above a fireplace but pull it forward and down for when you want to use it. Not personally keen on the option but wanted to make sure you know it exists. I was thinking that (with a small sofa). If you put a single rotatable chair to the fire side of that and then other chairs (or another sofa) in the other parts of the room you could effectively divide the room into a smaller TV snug and a somewhat larger social space, though the dimensions are a little tight for this. He wants this room as mainly for TV or he wants this room as a living space and to use another room as a dedicated TV space? How much TV do you watch?

So do you notice the mismatched colour? Would you mind sharing a photo or two? You are clearly happy with things, but I've never got on with mixed colour temps in the same space though because I've always been careful I've never lived with it, just noticed in other places so I'm really curious to see if it can be made to work with careful application.

This surprised me. I assume you are thinking you want to avoid the need to get steps/ladder to silence the alarm after accidentally setting it off? Can't say I've ever set off my fire alarms since I've been living here >10 years and that involves some occasionally smokey cooking. If it's been a problem for you, maybe consider if your alarms are set right (heat alarms in cooking areas, etc)?

Amen! There is Loxone and KNX at the 'low-end' and moving up there are companies like Lutron and Control4 that do stuff (been a while since I looked so might be out of date). Nothing really accessible unless you want to spend fortune on it along with specialist installers and maintenance contracts. I'm seeing a lot more commercial building solutions so maybe these filter down at some point but not getting my hopes up. The market will be dominated by Matter/Thread I've seen people plaster in mm-Wave sensors to the ceiling though can't find it right now. Some smart light switches have presence sensors behind the switch (again dont have a link). Saw this most recently whose features seem attractive, but it's not hidden (ceiling mountable though and the visible PIR sensor is removable). https://shop.everythingsmart.io/products/everything-presence-pro I wouldn't trust these sort of things to HA anyway. Best bet in my book is add monitoring to the alarm signal wire in traditional wired alarms. That way your HA system can get notification of an issue (to send alerts if you are out of the house or whatever). Not currently building but I certainly plan to have water leak detection and automatic shut off would be good.

Welcome!