nod
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Everything posted by nod
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Hi Mike I went for a Eurocell sky pod main reason being the place were I buy UPVC gutters etc had a mock up on display and it look really solid
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We finally took delivery of the copings and lantern for the orangery the local company offered to install the lantern £900 for cash Talk about easy money Very simple to fit It took my wife and myself three hours to install came in kit form and assembled like mechano Fitting the last two sets of four sash windows wasn't so straight forward i had the manufacture and joins in a set of four but had to take all eight sash windows out to unload them
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Agreed allot arnt interested in one offs one company who had a site near by Offered to quote and was virtually double and were working on a eight weeks hire 14th of December was the first day of hire 2800 sq ft house fully rendered and slated All in 8 weeks £200 run over per week i brought four bricklayers in But did the roof and slating and render myself (with the help of my wife) But needed the 18 Weeks Forget to mention 15 for build Roof etc 4 weeks for render After 15 weeks they dropped the whole lot and rebuilt for render 2 lifts and three tables
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This is were they all seem to vary Tge company I use will allow you to keep a full Scaf on hire for 15 weeks (set price) Part Scaffold 8 weeks Fixed rate run over 5% of total per week Some will hire a bit cheaper But will sting you for £200 pounds per week after 8 weeks
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£15 per mtr
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As Dave pointed out Its normal to tape the butt joints You will need to feather 250 either side of the joint The majority of tapers use fibre tape now I still prefer to use paper tape on these joints much better finish i regularly price both slimed finish and taped Labour costs are about the same and not a great deal of difference in material ps Don't forget to sand the joint filler before applying two Seperate coats of joint cement good luck
- 5 replies
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- end on joint
- dry lining
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Grano is very fine granite chippings about five mil I mixed it semi dry at a rate of 4-1 with cement and used tapering bitterns 3 mtrs apart screwed to the concrete floor and simply removed them the following day and filled It sets like iron Ive laid thousands of mtrs of semi dry sand and cement and would never go less than 50 mil But in this case my options were limited as I needed to match to the existing asphalt I forgot to mention that I coated the floor with SBR sealer on two separate days and also added it to the mix I waited a few weeks before tiling Three years on no cracked tiles or loose grout
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Ive levelled a floor at home From 50 mil down to 15 mil I used grano chippings It set rock hard Its been down about three years and is still ok
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Warm roof all day long I'm not a roofer but ive seen loads of condensation problems with cold roofs With all the above mentioned If you look at my back posts ive just completed a GRP roof First attempt I used the multi layer insulation as I was trying to keep the roof lantern as low as possible Otherwise I would have used 150 kingspan and as much as I could cram in on the underside Hope this helps
- 10 replies
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- flat roof
- interstitial condensation
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- 10 replies
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- flat roof
- interstitial condensation
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(and 2 more)
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Ive just had the electric supply connected and paid for the gas The electric has been run about thirty mtrs from outside the boundary The gas the same but will have to cross a main road So will take them eight weeks to get the relevant permits to close the road Both prices have come in at just over a thousand All in I expected to have to pay more The gas contractor has offered to quote for water But has told us there is a £150 quotation charge from NW water Has anyone else come across this charge
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Thanks for all the quick reply's I will let you know how I get on
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That's a good suggestion Dave The floor is a block and beam cavitys fully filled There will be 150 kingspan then UFH 75 mil screed
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We have a bit of a dilemma Currently we are weather tight with windows and external door all in We had planed to have UFH and screed installed prior to first fix electrics and plumbing Looking at the UFH company's literature it states not to let the internal temperature drop below 3 degrees I was only fit the boiler prior to moving in around Easter time So this would leave the house without heat for most of the winter Boilers are very easy picking for thief's So I would like to delay with that as long as possible Ive seen builds on tv were UFH has been installed in the slab Can it be drained off after testing Any thoughts would be most welcome Gary
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Looking really good Ian Things should move pretty quikly now
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Sorry only just seen your question Yes my wife and myself did the woodwork and all the falls on the Sunday Intending to fibreglass on the bank Holliday the following day But had to cover it up till the following Thursday The fibreglass went on easy enough But the top coat had to be done later that evening due to the direct sunlight and heat
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Orangery roof is now ready for copings and lantern The most difficult part was keeping everything dry prior to the fibreglass going on
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Lots of posts Doesn't really answer my questions
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I thought that The second guy just laughed
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Im at the stage were we are ready to install the UFH Electrician is looking to get started in a few weeks But I would like to have a plumbing and heating plan in place first ive approached two heating company's one suggested one boiler for UFH the other for hot water The second company totally different approach Whats the best way forward? Does BC have any say in what we use? I did post a question regarding SAP no takers} Should I consider SAP when deciding which way to go?
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Id 7 tons of quoins and cils in with my 20 So pretty happy I wanted to go the ready mix route ok this time of year A lot of waste in winter
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I paid 20 per mtr 300 mtr pluss a sweetener of two double skinned garages 200mtrs all loading and stone quoins and heads and cils included Five weeks for a 3+2 gang November and December Perhaps a bit more at the moment Most sites near me are paying brickies 185 per day and far more on price
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Just on with this now 146mtrs Ground floor SC screed 75mil 1990 Liquid 50 mil 2300
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As the title suggests I'm looking for a bit more info on the SAP report Like most on here I had a SAP report done prior to building conditions being agreed What I would like to know Is there a final SAP assessment If so most of the insulation and blocks specified etc will be covered Sure building control have inspected periodically But certainly not gone round checking thickness of insulation Just wondered what the procedure is Gary
