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Spons is ok as a guide for a trade working for a company. But most would find it impractical running a business based on £18 an hour. Most of the larger companies are paying bricklays that don’t want price work about £18 an hour Extra for weekend work Holidays paid Just turn up with a bucket of tools £18 is pittance if you are trying to run a business

Exactly A nervous three weeks till I took the scaffold down

There correct in stating that it’s a natural product and you will get variations But these are two different colours I normally sort through them before starting Some will have much heavier vaining than others which is normal But the base colour should be constant

Quick answer would be that fibreglass is much cheaper Lead for my two valleys was £500 Fibreglass would have been less than a hundred sure it may not be as good as lead But nearly all the major house builders use it The quote seems ok to me Couple of days work for two men If it doesn’t P down Also They will have to hire or erect there own scaffold Asvits not a job that can be done safely off ladders

If you look on eBay there are a few company’s that will send you a sample of the Z type stone

Mine are deep trench with B.B. Its not really worth the hassle The SE charged £250 for one visit and drawing the house foundation and two garages and another 100 for all the steel calcs and a couple of alterations that were requested

We submitted our B&B drawing which was done by the B.B. company as part of there quote No charge It was flagged up by our local authority when we submitted and sugested to us that our Structusl engineer have a look at it Same with the floor joists as pasquils had spect a lam joist BB the SE added two more supporting walls Tfe first floor joists He replaces the lam joists with a steel I would go ahead and submit and see what they pick up It really didn’t hold anything up They just said everything will go through once we have these two amendments Same thing with drainage our Architect submitted an elaborate Drainage plan Which was passed But inpractical So I drew out a different layout Like your doing abd asked the Architect to put it in a drawing and email it to BC Theres always little niggles But ideally easy to get over

I had to read the first paragraph twice I thought it was something that I had written Ive certainly thought it more than once

A very good post and I would guess typical of most on here No matter how many surveys you have done prior to starting You won’t know what’s down there till you start digging

Although your fixtures and fittings can rack up You can spend a lot of money removing spoil and filling it back up with concrete Our plot is very flat but we still had 750 tons of muck to take away and a couple of hundred tons of hardcore 100 cube of concrete These are things that you can’t save on I would concentrate on pricing a watertight building 1st fix Joinery Plumbing Electrical and plastering and work accordingly when it comes to kitchens and bathrooms You can spen a fortune on these item But also save a stack of money

Hi Lizzie They are based about half a mile from we’re we live Fantastic quality and prices aren’t to bad for what you are getting Great reputation locally My wife has already got her eye on a couple of sofas from there

I nearly always use 10 mil on floors You can get away with a bit less on Backer board It’s not just the floor Often the tiles you are using can be slightly bowed Exspecially The 1200 long plank tiles that are so popular now Also its much easier and less messy to give the odd tile a tap than lifting and packing up with more adhesive Also it’s worth using the voter clips on the larger floor tiles Hope this helps

8 mil

Think it would be very exspensive and difficult to use on a full house Rrminds me of the poly cell tubs for covering artex cielings

That would be a long job Drywall adhesives fine But you must have a solid line of adhesive around all perimeters of walls and frames and sockets and as Dave has already pointed out Tape finish is rubbish

If you use wet Your stuck with High suction browing or gypbonding the whole surface

Good point Dave In some cases first fix plumbing is done before it is water tight No time to dry out I went to tile a 70 mtr floor last Tuesday No UFH No Matting wanted The Builder said it’s bone dry We SBR the whole floor Two hours later still wet The following day we tiled it But still should have been left a bit longer All the skirtings a internal doors stacked in the garage I guess there not going to leave it a week to walk on it

If u get any movement Plaster will crack No matter what precautions you take Timber frame are more likely to crack years ago when we used to artex We stopped putting tape around the edges as it was so difficult to patch artex We would let it crack then cork the edge when the heating went on The easiest way to deal with a hairline crack is to make it bigger Gently tap a bolster along the crack to make a 2 mil deep V Chanel and fill with a good quality flexible filler

You may find that you bennifit from using a few slate and a half’s Saves finishing up with a scratty pieces on the edge You can put a slate sideways on for your starter row Then once you have marked out it will all come together The best quote we had was around 8K for labour Which was more than expected But talk about using foam and silicone on awkward cuts and valleys

She worked for free As she keeps reminding me Inspite of the bad weather ( March) I think she enjoyed it

I hired a bumper conveyer belt from speedy. £110 for the week. We were loading three crates of slates in under an hour. Talk about labour saving device. I'd not slated before but myself and my wife fixed 220 mtrs of slate ourselves and all the lead work for the chimney and flashings. It’s not that difficult. Start straight and keep checking your bond

Good question we used protect insurance The policy received was ambiguous to say the least I called them and was no wiser Weve just had the renewal Which we ignored Whe we received a follow up call We stated our reason for not renewing They then sent us another much more detailed renewal Perhaps we should have done this in the first place But like most of us when we are finally getting started Lots to do Little time to do it

I’ve seen quite a few of these fitted Though I’ve never seen these upstands normally made up on site Glass looks really smart Uostands would be very easy to make up yourself

I think it’s unlikely that there is no primer on The primer is designed to to help the top coat adhere But all to kill the suction from the base coat If there was no primer it would be very difficult to get a uniform finish From the picture it looks like water has got between the two coats and frost has then done the damage It’s unlikely the base coat will be effected As it’s more durable than the top in an ideal world we wouldn’t use these render systems if the tempriture was likely to drop below 5 As recommended by the manufacturer But that wouldn’t be practical This time of year we completely sheet the scaffold up to protect against As there no telling if it’s going to be frosty I wouldn’t worry about the rest though

Go straight onto it as normal