nod

A lot of the older guys still call fibre tape Scrim Worth using paper tape around the angles Less cracks

Yes there is a difference We don’t have much choice in what we use Nearly always the Architects favorite Kingspan and pink foam backed PP for dabbing

Fibre or paper

No Do your openings first Allow 5 mil top and side If you cut your trims to the mirror while it’s on the floor You will know it will fit

You can’t plaster first Apart from the new plaster getting ruined while they are laying the concrete The plaster will suck all the moister out of the floor causing the skin to blow If you use a wet backing plaster (S&C) You will have to put a skirting on to cover the expansion gap

Problem

I’ve done these with both skirting and no skirting Either way the dot and dab plasterboard will cover the strip The ones I’ve done without skirting I’ve used a knock on stop bead on the bottom of the plasterboard Quite a nice look This will still allow movement

I’ve done this It’s normal to do the floor before the plaster As the expansion strip is vital to prevent the flood cracking

As above Some SE engineers seem to think that piled foundations are the answer to everything Others use them as a last resort Foundations for Something like you are proposing should be very inexpensive

No you definitely need them to circulates the air and in case of flooding will stop the water getting trapped I also added a drain with a none returned valve Thatme looking miserable spreading four cube of concrete on my own in the rain Real simple I chopped a concrete lintel up and left a couple of bricks out

I did ours at 1800 apart and left letter boxes out of the internal support walls

Whilst this doesn’t help this poster Airtightness on new build is so easily achieved Blocks should be pointed properly and all ceilings and studs should be acoustic sealed against the wall If every edge of the boards dabbed on are sealed No air should circulated behind them Also all sockets and switches should be sealed It still mystifies me that none commercial TF homes don’t use fire rated baffle boxes behind sockets and switches I pay £5 per baffle Made and fitted The rules need to be tightened Get rid of the corrupt air testers that are all competing for the same business

?

There’s a lot of confusion with soundproofing Many of the house builders have us filling bathroom and toilet walls with 70 mil of loft insulation Which does hardly anything We fill office and split student rooms with 25 mil Party walls between blocks with 50 mil As long as you use Acoustic (ISO) 25 mil Will do the job 100 mil lap at the top and bottom Staples to hold it in place

If your only insulating between rooms 25 mil of acoustic is normal It’s literally to stop the sound rattling around The majority I use on commercial is 25 and 50

More expensive Exactly the same on airtightness Far better insulation Fine for hanging stuff

All good advise You can never have enough insulation Always money well spent

Plus 1

We are about to start our second and third self build after Christmas Never a good or bad time When we started our last one The Brexit vote came in putting 40% on most material s overnight The factory in Germany that makes insulation board burned down and doubled the cost of ALL insulation There could have never been a worse time to start ? We also went down the traditional route I simply couldn’t justify the extra cost of TF and also prefer the solid feel of traditional Airtightness with traditional isn’t an issue Weather you dryline or wet plaster You can achieve the same level I run a plastering business and drylined the external walls will 37 mil insulated plasterboards Far superior to wet plaster Budget will dictate what route you take In this and our next we decided against PV as the saving of a couple of hundred quid per year didn’t stack up We decided to put the money saved on that into extra floor and cavity insulation End result A large 5 bed home that requires very little heating Regrets We had gas nearby so took the lazy option of fitting a system boiler No Gas at the next plots so decision made for us But I still think I would have gone with Heat pumps this time We where talked out of fitting MVRH by a friend We wil also remedy that if only just to get rid of the bloody window trickle vents Good luck with your choices

Over the last 30 plus years I’ve lost count of the times we’ve ripped sloping ceilings down due to black spots and sweating I do hundreds of m2 of slopes each year It would be great to be able to put put rock wool in But the spec always calls for a ridged insulation with a true air gap A possible solution would be to get your boarders to do it If they are doing it all the time They would have in-between the rafters done in a day (two men) Your saving £6-8 m2 Its unlikely you will get it past BC with rock wall also If you do decide to full fill with Rock Wool I’d run it part BC first

Thanks for the comments Yes we will instal ourselves We hadn’t intended installing last time But the quotes where coming in around 10k for the Labour I suppose one advantage with hooks is they are held in three places

Plus one Looks great Forget about it

On our previous build we nailed all the slates We have trees to three sides so not particularly exposed Our next build whilst only ten minutes away is the opposite Fields to three sides So looking for opinions (pictures) from those who have hooks My wife is against hooks as she thinks they will be unsightly I think she just enjoyed helping me nail the slates on I was talking to a couple of roofers in Cumbria and they use them most of the time and while I could see the hook They looks fine to me

Mineral wool would be useless in this You will have to go with you initial build I’ve done loads of these and would recommend if you are struggling with the cuts Is to use a 100 and a 50 pir Much easier than handling a 150 One person measure and the other mark and cut down below You can always foam any loose cuts

Thanks Joe I get this all the time with our rentals Not sure why Everything off Boils pressure up Dish under one of the valves Let some water out Open the bleed screw at the top and wait for that bad boy to heat up almost instantly Re pressurize your boiler when your finished