nod

Exactly Making it difficult or near impossible to take your waste to the tip has made life difficult for normal people and made a whole new industry out of fly tipping Very much like when a fee was introduced for a dog license Responsible people moaned about it but went along with and others wouldn’t have paid it if it had cost a penny

Then why are they sap accessors still predicting just a few hundred per year return on a 10 system If yours is saving thousands

On our last build I thought I was being clever setting the gate code as 1066 But two young Brickies would ring each morning and say they had forgotten the code 😁

The problem you will have You will be getting calls day and night Are you going to be ringing trades that haven’t turned up ? I bet you don’t do that on site Whilst a renovation or one new build isn’t a full time job I would allow a day per week of your time

Yes A week is not a lot of time to grasp the basics Ive two brothers that come and help me out Tuesday and Wednesday each week The bricklayer is 67 and his hod carrier is 73 Neither need the money But they get more done than the guys in there 20s

Probably not I’m reasonably experienced and built the foundations and the garage on the last and while I’ve done quite a bit of brick and block work on this one It’s not cost effective and painfully slow

We use lots of these Absolutely brilliant But as Mark as already stated none are self leveling

It does get easier from here on This time and last I’ve had a torrid time digging out In my humble opinion a 5 tone machine isn’t man enough in tough ground I ended up hiring a dozer to move all the spoil 500 per day for the machine plus 300 per day for the fuel Groundwork’s is the only unknown part of your build The rest should be plain sailing Im pretty inexperienced with larger diggers also I had the loan of a 8 tone machine and a GPS system Incredible leap forward The engineer uses the Topo to program it Then follow the screen like a sat nav It even tells you when you have reached the required depth The only drawback is you can’t deviate from the program We have a large workshop that could have done to be moved a meter further out from the boundary

It does get easier from here on This time and last I’ve had a torrid time digging out In my humble opinion a 5 tone machine isn’t man enough in tough ground I ended up hiring a dozer to move all the spoil 500 per day for the machine plus 300 per day for the fuel Groundwork’s is the only unknown part of your build The rest should be plain sailing

I was surprised that our sap guy said MVR had a detrimental effect on the sap He said while it’s cheap to run and efficient So is opening a window

Kind offer

More than the heat loss You need to have an expansion joint around the walls to allow the screed to move

The problem your having with a fixed price Is builders are having to load the price in anticipation of price rices If you find a builder that comes close to your original budget He May run out of funds part way through and pull off You best bet is to do what all the major builders are doing with the subcontractors Ask for a realistic quote and agree to stand the material rises If and when they come

Anywhere that studs land between joists should have nothings between each joist and under the floor deck every 600 You can do this from underneath by following the screws

Concrete lintels are fine either way The reinforcement bar runs through the middle

Most foam isn’t airtight The blue stuff is the best for what you are doing

Plus 1 with The bathrooms Architechts have a habit of putting steels in everywhere Speak to your SE to minimize

We had a large conservatory there before which was all glass Probably about half the glass in the extension So no issues

I’ve done this on my previous home I checked with my near neighbor to see if they had any objections But if they had I don’t think it would make any difference under PD

You can hose it down or throw a few buckets of water over it I’ve tiled on screeds that have been laid for only a few hours Traditional is pretty bombproof

You can seal each room as a separate envelope and keep air from getting behind the boards and ceiling As a business I only do about 10% of our site work in wet backing It’s only slightly more expensive when you offset the saving in materials I could do either on my builds but always find wet plaster to be colder

Yes you can achieve good airtightness on brick and block The block work needs to be pointed properly and the dot and dab needs to be solid lines around every angle and sockets etc Parge is a waste of time and money Great for soundproofing But encourages the dry liners not to do there job properly

No Joking apart those figures are amazing The household bills should be a fraction of what they are now for Scotland

Don’t answer the door the next time they come round It’s unlikely that driving rain em will get under that

That’s probably why Scottish home energy bills are so much lower than the rest of the Uk 😁