Mike

Yes, that's a variation of what @markc suggested in your other thread on the topic:

Yes, you can. Building Regulations Requirement M4(l): Category 1 - Visitable dwellings, section f - states that 'all-mounted switches and socket outlets in habitable rooms [should be] reasonably accessible to people who have reduced reach'. And the definition of habitable rooms excludes bathrooms and utility rooms.

Any planning permission in a sensitive location will normally have a condition removing the Permitted Development rights, so probably not. That could include a lift to the 1st floor, if you have space (and keep the 2nd floor).

Oven right next to fridge isn't ideal due to the heat. Ideally stick the fridge next to the food prep area. Don't have the hob quite so close to the end of the kitchen run - allow 300mm to avoid handles projecting where they may be knocked off. Google the 'kitchen work triangle'. On a bigger scale, is this really the best place for the kitchen? You effectively have 3 / 4 corridors running through it (lounge to extension, 'door' + external door to lounge and extension, and all of these to the WC) which isn't good. Maybe post the ground floor plan here for some fresh ideas.

If the vendors already have plans, make sure that sticking to them is not one of the conditions of sale. It probably won't be, but have come across similar in the past.

+1 to both of these. And also check that you have at least the legal minimum. In the Alps you need a minimum resistance 4.4 m².K/W (u-Value 0.227) https://rt-re-batiment.developpement-durable.gouv.fr/IMG/pdf/fiche-ravalement-refection-toiture-amenagement-travaux-isolation.pdf

+1. Centre of the TV at (or close to) eye-level when sitting...

From memory, it's treated as a wall if >70°, as a roof if <70°. But do verify that - I may be wrong / it may have changed.

Skew-nail them - it gives you more distance to play with. And stagger the battens, so that they joint over different rafters.

Try to identify who made the building / who makes something similar & ask them if they can send someone? You'll only know that by stripping off parts of the shell. In addition to the timber, I'd suggest that the joints between sections would need to be exposed to verify their structural integrity.

For airtightness I'd either use Iibruck FM330 foam or a bead or two of Orcon F adhesive in the joint, with a mastic or timber bead to hide the joint.

Sounds more typical of aerated concrete blockwork, though a medium density wall of 13m without a vertical movement joint is pushing it. Chance are it will be generally good, but you may get a few. Probably not. Consider retrofitting a vertical movement joint, if you want to try something that might help. For example resin-bond wall ties in every block course between inner & outer leaves either side of where you want the joint, saw through with a 350mm disk cutter (proper safety gear essential), then fill (or call in an expert). Personally I'd probably leave it. If you use dot-and-dab, make sure it's done properly and apply a parge coat first. I'd choose plaster every time.

+1.

No, not horizontal plastic to horizontal liquid DMP. You'll have to make something up.

For other options, see https://database.passivehouse.com/en/components/list/ventilation_small? - the Efficiency Ratio is the most important number.

From your earlier post it seemed that you have the polythene DPM under the concrete. If it's on top, then forget using polythene and apply liquid Aquaseal across the entire slab and up the walls as the DPM. And yes, that would complicate screwing the battens to it considerably - I've never tried that.

Check the manufacturer's installation guide / BBA Certificate to verify that that is permitted above OSB. For example, when using Ply/OSB sheathing, Tyvek Supro says (the bold text is theirs)'These vapour resistant board materials do not allow adequate vapour diffusion and therefore should not be installed in non-ventilated applications above insulation. Ventilation at eaves and ridge and a continuous 50mm cross ventilation path must be maintained beneath the sheathing in accordance with the current version of BS5250.' The only way of providing such ventilation beneath the membrane would be to install it on top of the counter battens.

Yes, looks like efflorescence. You can treat if with a weak acid solution, from a builder's merchants, of it bothers you.

Close. Along the length of the fascia, roofing felt is traditionally laid on top of a timber 'tilting fillet' that supports the edge of the tiles at the correct height, and prevents the felt from sagging behind the fascia board. Modern high-performance felts aren't intended to be exposed to sunlight for extended periods, so will disintegrate where exposed at the eaves much faster than traditional felts. An eaves tray is fixed underneath the roofing felt to remedy this weakness, spanning over the top of the fascia board to discharge any rain into the gutter. You need both the tilting fillet and the eaves tray to do the job properly, so that you can install / maintain / repair / replace the fascia without disturbing the tiles. On a solid roof, the tilting fillet goes on top of the counter battens, and you nail the eaves tray to the counter battens too. No need for an additional batten if the fillet is correct. If you have over-facia vents, you'll need a 10mm / 25mm wide gap between the fascia and the tilting fillet (to maintain your 10,000mm² / 25,000mm² per metre ventilation) so that the air can get into the void between the counter battens under the felt. The eaves tray will be over the top of the vents, so won't be in the way.

So what, you can’t sue them. They owe no duty of care to the OP. You can't sue them, but they can make your life miserable if they have good reason to doubt your adequate compliance with the Regs. Require you to open up the work, take samples, withhold your completion certificate, line you up for an enforcement notice or a fine...

On top of your insulation, DPM & concrete slab, the main options are: underlay, then 22mm moisture resistant t&g chipboard, then carpet/lino/vinyl/cork or similar underlay, then t&g engineered flooring battens plugged and screwed to concrete, then t&g solid wood floor. Yes, this would introduce an air gap under the timber. screed, then ceramic tiles/stone/carpet/lino/vinyl/cork The underlay can be a (soft) proprietary product, or something like 25mm polystyrene. BTW, you need the concrete (and any screed) to dry out thoroughly before laying anything over it. With a floor insulated below the slab to current Building Regs standards, I'd not use a VCL (the temperature below the timber surface is unlikely to lead to condensation), unless the manufacturer requires it for warrantee purposes.

With luck, at least some of it would be divided into lots so that small builders & self-builders can do some of the building. See also Investigation into suspected anti-competitive conduct by housebuilders: https://www.gov.uk/cma-cases/investigation-into-suspected-anti-competitive-conduct-by-housebuilders Although I don't think that housebuilders are the (main) target. More likely it's about buying up (mainly) agricultural / 'grey belt' land to build New Towns and the like. That's not far off what happened to acquire the land for the post-war New Towns (see the New Towns Act 1946), except the land owners then were only paid the agricultural value.

It is. I just wouldn't do it if you choose solid timber, instead of chipboard or engineered timber.

Yes, if you're using engineered timber boards or chipboard (the latter I guess, as you say '22mm moisture resistant'). Just make sure the DPM's not damaged. That shouldn't be a problem if you lay it on an underlay, allow adequate expansion gaps at the edges, etc. For solid timber boards, which seem these days to get glued to the concrete, that could be a problem at the edges if the boards lift & take the DMP with it. I'd probably plug & screw battens to the floor and fix the boards to the battens.

An 8m glulam beam should be no problem, but you will need a structural engineer, mainly to verify any upgrade to the walls that are carrying it - for example you may need a wall / piers that are wider that the 'standard' 100mm. I've done it myself with a 6m clear span onto 140mm blockwork.