Super_Paulie

Do you regret your ufh setup John? I'm yet to commission mine but it's happening imminently and I'm dubious myself. Too late now, but if I could go back I'd just fill the gaff with quad rads and be done with it.

id whack 100mm of PIR flush to the flooring and be done with it. If you can sacrifice any height from the room then you could overboard it with PIR as well but i probably wouldnt bother. 100mm should be a decent improvement if you can get it all air tight.

Pretty sure the bottom of the joists need to be exposed to air flow, that's probably why you can't find any examples of it online. I was in the same boat in my original part of the house, could only get 100mm of pir into it. Not a lot I could do about it without major surgery.

That was my initial idea but the wife had other plans with some fancy valves, copper left on show etc... Not planning on doing it a lot, it's just while the gaff is a building site now would be the time. I'm still in 2 minds about it...

Nah that won't matter really, it's just to get rid of the majority at radiator level. Im just unsure as to having the cock outside is essentially losing a shed load of heat at all times. I could probably have it on an isolator but that would haveto be under floor level, so mightily inconvenient.

It just seemed an easier way to get rid of a ton of old heating water as the cock would be directly over a gully.

Morning everyone, nice and warm today. I'm looking to fit an external drain cock to completely drain the central heating when the need arises. So the lowest point is obviously under the floor and I was going to just tee into the closest rad flow and bring the pipe straight out the wall with the cock on the end, a run of maybe 40cm, pretty simple stuff. But my question is, am I just going to be haemorrhaging heat outside via the drain cock? As it's all under the floor level I can't really get an isolator that I can access on there. Water won't be flowing through the leg but the heat will transfer through the water/pipe. Or am I worrying about nothing here as it will be miniscule? Cheers guys.

i went under the foundations and brought it up inside into the floor void in some 110mm pipe. Used a slow bend 110mm for the bend upwards. Once into the void i used a 90 elbow to bring it back level again. I concreted the slow bend in and used fibreglass insulation and expanding foam on the entry and exit points.

i think you guys are missing the obvious.

It's interesting for sure, I might come across using one for retro fit where I don't have a neutral at the switch. Strange though how the switch will technically always be live.

Think I'll stick to the logical version rather than the version that uses black magic!

Anyone have any experience with the Sonoff smart relays? I've got one to test and it requires the neutral and it works great. But I've just seen you can get some that DON'T need a neutral. How does that work then? The information is pretty sketchy but my brain can't work out how it runs with no neutral as it will surely be unpowered while the light is off. Any sparkies here have an idea?

i defo hit the wall a month ago. Finally got my radiator system in and working after 6 months and at that point my urgency to carry on just nose-dived as the house was able to be warmed. Difficult on the dark cold nights to come in from work and start to crawl around the house for sure.

is it normal to have to remove about 3000 fag butts from under the joists and all your plant pots once they are done? asking for a friend.

ive got a list as long as my arm (and leg) of the things the builder did that were p!55 poor, you get what you pay for. The only saving grace is that the external brick work is really nice so that was a bonus that cushioned the blow somewhat. Just daft things like they didnt tool off the silicone on the doors for example, and the setting out of rafters and joists is erratic as is their overly zealous use of a nail gun. Thats passable at best but i have found they used bits of knackered old fence i had behind the shed as parts of the roof in the porch. I mean thats just mental, the fence i took down as it was borderline falling down and it was only fit for burning, i had it stashed for fuel for the chimenea, not for a brand new porch. Too much hassle to pull them on it after they had left, i just wouldnt use them again or recommend them to anyone.

i found a bomb shelter 2inches below the grass in my garden, but it was basically a bit of corrugated steel. Wouldn't fancy my chances against the Luftwaffe but i guess it made people feel safer. Think id take your neighbours bunker over that any day.

out of interest how did this pan out, did you get it resolved?

thats really helpful, thanks S2. I'll have a look at this on my break, see if i can cross reference against my bills. This whole thing seems Ludacris really, this didnt happen when i was with the multiple defunct companies in years gone by!

so what are we saying, that there is a mismatch in my metric/imperial or that i am hemorrhaging gas?

it says m3 after the reading so i guess metric?

yeah ive started recording actual figures as of yesterday. Dont blame you, especially British Gas seem overly crappy. 100kwh of heating for a few hours would be pretty toasty like.

this is as of this morning. Pretty different results depending where you look.

It's crazy complex, I wonder why British Gas don't offer up a calculator... Actually I do know, they are a bunch of *****. I found this website which seems to work based on what S2D2 offered up. How my smart meter says a few quid but the official app and website suggest a fortune I have no idea.

Significantly less than what the app suggested the other day at 50Kwh! I'll record it at the meter the next few days and make a spreadsheet.

This is what I've used in an hour. Any gas monkeys know what the hell I'm looking at here?