Super_Paulie

could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow. When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes.

Whatever floats your boat! Either way it's not a structural screed. However it'll take me a week to get it down so the start might be dry by time I've finished anyways.

Water quantity is only what is in the sand on delivery, it's a dry mix. It will serve no structural purposes, it's thermal mass only.

Can go as low as 35 with my mixer. As it's just biscuit for thermal mass I don't need it to be structural, hence the 8-1 dry mix.

Even on a 8-1 dry mix? Plenty to do in the meantime, but it would be nice to just crack on.

gunna be putting the biscuit mix down this weekend, anyone any thoughts on if i can run the system to speed up drying? i mean its a dry mix but will obviously have water in from the building sand. As its only acting as a thermal mass can i speed up the drying time or should i just sit it out for the next few weeks?

Thanks a lot John, that's great knowledge and very welcome, appreciated. Looks like CP mode will do the job and I'll play with the speed and flow to get what I need. All coming together nicely 👌

Brilliant, cheers @Nickfromwales. That guy in the video is a man of little words...! Still not sure what the icons relate to all I'll do some research tonight. I still need to get my biscuit mix in, that's next week's job, but I've commissioned all the UFH now and so far, no leaks 😆

Thanks guys, I'll just have a play about. I have no idea what he curves are (the symbols) and what effect that would even have.

Before I turn on the UFH system for the first time, does anyone have any suggestions on what settings to run the Wilo pump on? I'll be honest, the curves etc mean nothing to me so any helpful advice would be awesome. 4 loops, 2 zones, 400m, 16mm Pex-al-Pex, biscuit mix between joist, Wilo Para pump as in the picture. Pipes tested at 5bar. Thanks gents, much appreciated.

i guess the theory is you dont want to warm up food in cupboards or dry out the traps under baths and showers? I avoided putting it under the units for those reasons and also that by doing so got me to give or take 100m instead of way over.

I thought biscuit mix had zero added water? The only water in it is what was in the bag when you hoyed it in the mixer. I'm doing a biscuit mix myself and was planning on giving it a few weeks after compacting it in, but I'm defo not adding any additional water.

i wouldnt be opposed to a small ceiling level vent if it gets me out of a hole in the above studwork/plywood scenario.

happy lunchtime guys. Im at the stage i need to stud my wonky kitchen party wall out to accommodate stuff like UFH, water pipes etc, I also have a gas line to contend with. My situation and question is as follows. The gas pipe runs up from the floor void in the corner clipped to the exposed brick wall in the kitchen. As i am framing that wall out it means i can hide the gas pipe, cladding with ply to hold the weight of my units but i don't know what's the best practice here. I could leave gaps top and bottom in the ply so its vented as i only need the ply to run to the wall where the tiles will go above worktop, and this would help with goons potentially drilling into the thing as its obvious it would be there. But as the wall units go up to the ceiling it would effectively be venting into another relatively sealed chamber up there. Same as below the units, although i could potentially put a crappy vent in the plinth or pelmet. Is this the best thing to do or should i be battening right up to the pipe and then fully encasing the pipe in something like illbruck fm330? Cheers gents, 3d images attached for your viewing pleasure, the gas pipe is very far right in all the images. Hopefully the above makes sense.

im not entirely sure, you'll have to use a bit of improvisation. At the very least id clip that MDPE pipe to that concrete wall. If its a cellar and not exposed to the outside temperatures im sure it'll be fine freezing-wise but if thats unlagged heating pipes then its a really poor show. Its an awful job from an awful plumber im my opinion.

ah man, thats not great... in the void its basically outside temperatures, pipes need lagging to stop freezing. Also supported to stop water hammer and generally good practice. A minor gripe that they have used a yellow talon which would indicate gas but thats the least of your worries there. Heres a shot of mine that i did last winter but i think you know the answer to your own question im afraid 😞

i wouldnt be happy with that if it was my place, I think you are well within your rights to get them to look at it. Even if the pipes were in the wrong place initially it will just take a few bends to get them into a new, more appropriate position. At the very least the pipes should have been cleaned up, im not sure a actually plumber would put his name to that.

i hope they foamed and taped that PIR as well, seems very gappy. One of the reasons i put my own PIR in as the only person i would trust to do a good job was myself... If you have any more photos of the build around the joists it might help. Id imagine the gable side are in pockets in the wall and the nearside are resting on the now removed cavity wall? this is the setup that my builder did and the nearside in the cavity was sketchy at best, i built-up inbetween them to keep them true and had to use various bits of slate to keep them from bouncing and bring them totally level. Id imagine any remedial work now the UFH is in will be quite painful. Was it pug/biscuit mix youve got inbetween the joists? Actually just saw you used TorFloor. That in itself is pretty much half-routed through from the off. Id whack a 6mm over the top of that to bring the total of ply to 12mm if it was me, maybe even up to 18.

whatever works, depends on how much money you want to spend at the end of the day. I personally used talons and where it was required used red and blue but the rest being clear/white.

you can use all round band to hold the pipe (in insulation) up. If i could go back, thats what id do as working up and around the clips is a royal pain in the backside and i used about a thousand cable ties which now cut back are like razor blades. Going back, id defo continuous insulation taped at the joins and all round band it up, would have saved me days if not weeks id imagine.

Like Owen says, the resin will be holding the bolt into the block and the post will just be attached to that, surely? The post will just need working off the bolt shaft, might be a struggle if it's a tight fit, get some lever in between the block and post.

i can confirm both plastic and copper are fine, i have both. Its just a speedfit connection. Copper where i needed to add in compression checks (then converted to plastic underneath) and plastic where i just wanted to keep an unbroken run to point B. Dont have any great photos, but you can just see it here on the right hand side

i guess leave the washing up decisions to the missus, ammarite lads 🖐️

probably, never actually did any, all just went in the dishwasher. Middle it is in the new version, cheers guys.

dedicated coffee station just out of shot 😆