Super_Paulie

I'm defo going to get one, it's a no brainer as I still have full access above and, well why not. Still haven't heard from anyone with a 10incher... 😆

I'm not sure! 😆

thanks fella. If anyone has experience of the 10" version id love to hear your opinion if you regret going smaller.

thanks guys. Its between the 10" and the 14" im torn over though. The 14" will end up off-centre and may very well drive me (the missus) mad, whereas the 10" will be pretty much central due to rafter spacing. But i dont have any real means to compare the output of the 2.

afternoon. My landing upstairs is now landlocked, that is the only window to the landing has gone, replaced with the new side extension/bedroom door so it has literally no light other than what comes up the stairs from the front door. Im wanting to get a Velux sun tunnel and the 14" version will come in through the roof rafters but be "off center" to the landing/walkway. However, the 10" version will go almost center but i have my reservations on going smaller when the whole idea is to get light in. Has anyone any experience with the 10" rigid version and how effective it is? South facing, rigid tube about 1.5m in length. Cheers everyone.

Stick to a brand really, I use DeWalt for everything and being able to switch the battery is a right bonus. For what its worth I've a cordless DeWalt recip and it's been bullet proof.

Absolutely warm as toast. I'd imagine any pet you have would just permanently position themselves in front of it whenever it's on.

On setting 1 you have to be right next to them to know they are even on. I previously had a SS7, which I got based purely on the wattage they move but it was too noisy for me, I've got tinnitus so really sensitive to noises and I just couldn't get away with it. Basically brand new in the box, tested for 5 minutes and that was enough for me. Even that is not particularly loud but it would drive me insane if I could hear it, the SS5 are borderline silent.

For what it's worth I've got 2 plinth heaters, Smiths SS5. The heat they throw out is great, or at least the feeling of warmth is. I've got them as a backup incase the underfloor struggles in winter but they also can be set to just move air which is nice and cooling.

A bump on this, any thoughts anyone?

Belt sander would take take that down I'd imagine.

hi guys. Im getting a bit of reverse circulation i think on my system, see attached. (Rad 1, towel rail and Rad 2 are all in different rooms but in relatively close proximity) I have a bypass/towel rail that is "always on" no matter if the rads or the UFH are running. However when i run the UFH one of the radiators (Rad 2) in a bedroom also gets warm, strangely enough not the one nearest the towel rail return but one maybe 3m away in the other bedroom. Would tee'ing in the towel rail return higher up in the system, like in my second picture resolve this? If i close the lock on the towel rail then Rad 2 doesnt get warm. Not the end of the world as it gets warm rather than hot, but its still something i didnt plan on happening so if i can resolve this while i have no flooring then id like to. --------------

Seen plenty where they have freshly baked sourdough on the table, but upstairs is still a building site.

boundary of your property according to historical records basically. Saying that, i put plans in that meant i was about 1m from the boundary and they got approved but i was worried at the time it would get knocked back but they didnt even mention it.

just to hide the holes in the floor, if you cant remove that bit of flooring then i guess your options are limited. I dont think there is a way to check where the flow diverter is without a drain down. I wouldnt worry if the rad is heating up to your liking.

could be worse i guess, but id cap that floor somehow. When you changed the pipes around, a lot of those rads have a flow diverter inside that needs to go on the flow side, might be worth checking depending on how you jigged the pipes.

Whatever floats your boat! Either way it's not a structural screed. However it'll take me a week to get it down so the start might be dry by time I've finished anyways.

Water quantity is only what is in the sand on delivery, it's a dry mix. It will serve no structural purposes, it's thermal mass only.

Can go as low as 35 with my mixer. As it's just biscuit for thermal mass I don't need it to be structural, hence the 8-1 dry mix.

Even on a 8-1 dry mix? Plenty to do in the meantime, but it would be nice to just crack on.

gunna be putting the biscuit mix down this weekend, anyone any thoughts on if i can run the system to speed up drying? i mean its a dry mix but will obviously have water in from the building sand. As its only acting as a thermal mass can i speed up the drying time or should i just sit it out for the next few weeks?

Thanks a lot John, that's great knowledge and very welcome, appreciated. Looks like CP mode will do the job and I'll play with the speed and flow to get what I need. All coming together nicely 👌

Brilliant, cheers @Nickfromwales. That guy in the video is a man of little words...! Still not sure what the icons relate to all I'll do some research tonight. I still need to get my biscuit mix in, that's next week's job, but I've commissioned all the UFH now and so far, no leaks 😆

Thanks guys, I'll just have a play about. I have no idea what he curves are (the symbols) and what effect that would even have.

Before I turn on the UFH system for the first time, does anyone have any suggestions on what settings to run the Wilo pump on? I'll be honest, the curves etc mean nothing to me so any helpful advice would be awesome. 4 loops, 2 zones, 400m, 16mm Pex-al-Pex, biscuit mix between joist, Wilo Para pump as in the picture. Pipes tested at 5bar. Thanks gents, much appreciated.