wozza

Exactly what I did last week

100mm PIR should achieve a U value of around 0.15 according to the Kingspan calculator (See link below - there are others available) I believe that the recommended values for a domestic extension floor in England are a U value of 0.22, new build is 0.11 - this will need confirming I did have the same floor make up, 100mm concrete, 100mm PIR, 75mm sand cement screed, however I have now changed this to 100mm concrete, 120mm PIR and 55mm liquid screed as I am also having UFH. Kingspan calculator: https://www.uvalue-calculator.co.uk/calculator/floors/ground floor/solid concrete - insulation below screed/1/100/

Thanks Nod, I should have said that the original 75mm screen was most likely going to be a sand / cement, the new 55mm screed will be liquid screed.

Hi All, Our floor make up was / is going to be 100mm Concrete, 100mm PIR and 75mm Screed We are considering increasing the insulation to 120mm and reducing the screed to 55mm The UFH pipework will be fixed directly to the PIR What are the pros and cons apart from installation time of using a 120mm PIR board vs using 20mm and 100mm boards combined?

Looks very smart - please post more pics as you progress. Can I ask a couple of questions? What tiles are they? SWIMBO likes them, we have had our eye on some 1200 x 1200 matt white marble effect Why did you use the matting?

Is that 50mm PIR insulation in a 100mm cavity? If so then as PeterW has said it would be cheaper and better insulated with full fill cavity batts. Try this: https://www.cba-blocks.org.uk/u-value-calculator/ I am using Plasmor Fibolite blocks and 100mm Dritherm 32 insulation.

Thanks for your reply Only 2 zones, but one is around 60 square meters (open plan kitchen living area) and the other is about 20 square meters (bedroom and en suite) Thanks for your reply Will only be using for UFH and I believe that the wiring centre will also be Heatmiser.

Hi All, A nice chap has been round to quote for UFH - he uses Emmeti Pipe and manifolds - are they any good? anyone used them or got experience of them? The pipe is Emmeti alpert PE-RT/AL/PE-RT Also he said that he uses Heatmiser Thermostats - is there a particular one that I should request or avoid? Also is there any reason why the pipes cannot be looped under the floor where the stone resin shower tray will be fitted. Thanks, Wozza

Most of our double length garage floor has been removed because of this. Sorry to hijack the thread but it got me thinking Will screed on PIR feel cold? Our extension floor will be 100mm or so of concrete, 100mm of PIR and then a 75mm screed - it meets the old floor that is just 100mm concrete (and its cold in the winter) so we awaiting a price to see how much to replace the old floor to match the new so we don't have half insulated and half not insulated. Also we will be fitting 25mm perimeter insulation - should we also fit this against the internal walls (that were previously external walls) as they are built straight off the footings?

Great thanks

Have a look at Lutron Pico, I got a couple of switches and a dimmer as a test - I will be using them. Aurora Aone also looks good.

Ryder, can you show me the data or provide a link so I can look? I have always been one for researching before buying and my choice to buy a Bora hob in the near future is based on my experience, I have had a demo on a Neff extraction hob and the Bora hobs. I am in no doubt that the Extraction on the Bora out performed the Neff hence my decision to buy one. Information and reviews on extraction hobs does not appear to be that readily available - especially like for like comparisons If there is information or independent study results available that shows that the Novy hob extracts better, is quieter etc than a Bora I would actively seek out to have a demo on one and would most likely purchase a Novy instead. Looking at the Energy labels - the Bora is quieter, but uses 2 KWh a year more (not sure what the water droplet icon is but the Bora is a B and the Novy is a C so I presuming that the Bora is better in that category) Thanks Wozza.

I currently own a Siemens induction hob (no extraction) and its been a good hob I have had a demo on the same day of the Neff extraction hob and also the Bora hob. I have also had a full demo of the Bora range (not the version 2s or the pure) at a showroom. The Bora is better than the BSH extractor hob in my opinion (quieter and extracts better), and once my kitchen is finished it will be fitted with a Bora - you can get a good deal if you phone around the suppliers.

If you want the 152, its £52.50 with free delivery from Amazon - see here https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-DTD152Z-Impact-driver-160Nm/dp/B01861LGA2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Makita+DTD153Z&qid=1563834723&s=diy&sr=1-5

Just did a quick search - 1020 nails for $143 ?

Try this: https://www.cba-blocks.org.uk/u-value-calculator/ I don't think you would get that low with brick and / or block. Kingspan have a calculator, might be worth trying.

We have used about 14 packs of 3.7n Fibolites on our extension so far - the builder likes them. They are available in 7.3n - but they are a bit dearer.

10 mins in powerpoint

Ok Guys, Please see my crude diagram below and let me know if its ok (its not to scale) My plan is to run the soil pipe up to and level with concrete sub floor - to then add 110mm to 50mm reducers so that the 50mm pipe runs through the PIR insulation and then straight up to the sink and the shower. The shower waste will need to have the screed cut out to fit the waste flush with the floor when the tray is fitted so I intend to take it straight up to start with (so the floor can be laid) then when the floor area is cut out, it can be shortened and the bend added. The length of the pipe from the shower to the soil pipe with only be about 300mm before the bend. Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks all for the replies so far. The shower waste outlet is 40mm - it says to try and have at least 25cm of pipe before any bends. So my plan is to use solvent weld pipe and an adaptor as shown above by PeterW but in 40mm size - should the adaptor be solvent welded into the soil pipe? Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, What is the best method to connect a 40mm waste pipe (from a ground floor shower) to the soil pipe - the pipe will be underground in the hardcore / mot. Is it ok to use the rubber bung things underground?

Hi All, Part of the new extension will be fitted with Easi Joists and Egger Protect flooring (glued and sealed as per instructions) as it will be exposed to the elements whilst the build progresses. Once complete and water tight, I plan on fitting a shower tray (1500 x 800 x 25mm) in the en-suite area. Can I fit the tray straight onto the Egger protect or should I use a marine ply base? - I want the tray as low as possible so if using a marine ply base is it feasible to remove the Egger protect in the area where the tray will fit and replace with marine ply? from what I have read, the Egger D4 adhesive is very good and much stronger than the flooring so it might be a mission. Thanks, Wozza.

Ok, So the BCO officer came out - Builders were not on site. I asked about the soil pipe - he gave two options as follows. 1 - Wrap the pipe with 100mm insulation and then pour foundations - but to add mesh to the area above the pipe to strengthen the foundations 2 - Shutter the area, pour foundations and use lintels above - fill around pipe with pea shingle I then suggested option 3 as suggested above from Joe90 to sleeve the pipe with a bigger pipe, he said hmmm you could do that, but that he would prefer us to shutter the area and fill with pea shingle as the pipe would be close to the top of the foundations. So we went with option 2 - we poured the foundations to about 30mm under the pipe - used cut sections of a 3 x 2 concrete paving slab to shutter off either side of the pipe then filled the foundations - the slabs have remained in place - once set we filled around the pipe with pea shingle and used a lintel above. Thanks all for your advice. Wozza.

Hi All, I have looked through approved document H for drainage and waste disposal and googled until on the brink of self harm and I cannot find a simple answer to a couple of questions. I have a soil pipe (vented) that is in the corner of my house with a toilet and sinks etc connected to it, it leaves the house and runs under the new extension area to a inspection chamber at the bottom of the garden. Question 1 - I need to connect a new toilet in the extension - due to the position I cannot branch off to the soil pipe above floor level. Can I connect underground into the existing sewer pipe under the new extension floor with a Y connector about 1.5 meters from where it goes vertical? (concrete not laid yet so easy to do) or would it need an inspection chamber and therefore need to be connected outside in the garden as SWIMBO would not accept an inspection chamber inside? Question 2 - I have another ground floor toilet at the front of the house that is not vented - is this normal and if so why does it not need to be vented? BCO is coming out on Monday to advise, just trying to get educated before he arrives. Thanks, Wozza.

Could you use Gabion baskets?