wozza

Hi All, Just a quick question about lead flashing. Would you point up the joint with Mortar as is traditionally done or would you use Lead Sealant? Thanks, Wozza.

I do not know the legal side of your question (I am very interested in the correct answer), but I am all for not paying until they have completed the job to your satisfaction.

80mm is a lot - what size are the pipes? Most kitchen units have a service void that will easily accept a 40mm waste pipe. Post some pics and measure the pipes.

Should have explained better. Floor make up is as follows 50/55mm Cemfloor liquid screed (with UFH) DPM 120mm PIR insulation board 100mm Concrete subfloor (almost at this stage) DPM Sand binding Type 1 / hardcore We want to get it done as soon as possible - there is no immediate rush and the area is weather tight (apart from, a few draughts from around the boards where the windows will be fitted). Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, We should be pouring the 100mm concrete sub floor this week, how long should we wait before laying the 120mm PIR boards? I have read / been told anything from 3 days to 2 weeks. Thanks, Wozza.

Joists were fitted many years ago, I have fitted a steel (removed the structural wall). The ceiling has been removed to allow for the fitting of the steel, so I can only work from below. I have now fitted the herringbone timber, had to re do a few so they fitted better

Hi All, My joist hangers are fixed (cant believe how many nails it took) I now need to cross brace them to stop twist. The problem is that I can only work from below and a lot of the joists are already twisted / not square / bent / skewed etc so when trying to fit solid noggins its nigh on impossible. I have tried fitting 38mm x 38mm timber herringbone struts (using the method where you measure the depth, mark on the joist then place the strut across and mark the angles - this works fine until you try the strut in position as the tops of the joists are all over the place in relation to the bottom so the angles / sizes are slightly off. Does any one have a better method to cut / fit timber herringbone struts? Could I use the metal pre made struts but fix the top of them to the side of the joist and fix the bottom to the under side of the joist? - See picture below https://www.toolstation.com/herringbone-joist-strut/p67259 Thanks, Wozza.

Hi All, Couple of questions about Joist hangers, (joists butted up to steel beam with timber infill) 1. Joist hangers, nailed or screwed (or both) - I have got twisted nails at the ready but I have always favoured screws over nails. 2. I have been advised to fit noggins between the joists to stop twist - how close to the hangers should they be and should they be the same depth as the joists and can I stagger them so they are easy to fix. Thank Wozza.

Just another couple of points about the Redland Regent tiles, They break easy on the corners so be careful where you stand. The tiles will not match up with other very similar tiles such as Marley Bold Roll or the Sandtoft version - they all have a different joint profile that does not lock together.

Granular surfaced tiles of the same design have a higher pitch requirement as they hold water more than a smooth tile and it can track back up the tile. I spoke to Redland tech department a few months ago.

Just fitted lots of Regents but on a 18 degree pitch - if you are going to use the eaves clips as the second method of fixing the perimeter tiles, best order them now. The half tiles are very good if you want to avoid small cuts around windows etc (not cheap though)

Hi All, Will soon need to start fitting the roof flashing (got a lots to do), should we go with an alternative to lead or real lead. It seems that the alternatives are a bit cheaper, but are they as good? Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Pete. All done

Hi Peter, The sink is a pedestal sink, so if the pipe were to be lowered it would be seen and unsightly. Its a cavity wall, block inner, brick outer, it was double height but the wall above has been removed to extend over the garage. The clay elbow has rotated ok as it is connected with a plastic sleeve. My main concern was if it was ok to chase out the wall. Also would it be better to use a flexible solvent weld connector from the 110mm pipe through the floor so there are no joins in the concrete / insulation / screed - something like this: https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-flexi-waste-connector/p58975 Thanks, Wozza.

Hi Guys, I am converting the existing garage to a bedroom. There was previously an open gully type drain trap that the waste from a sink from the other side of the wall ran into via a 32mm pipe. The sink pipe cannot be easily routed anywhere else inside the house. In the picture you can see the existing clay sewer pipe and the 32mm pipe from the sink (it goes into a 40mm horizontal section), the red dotted line shows the approximate bottom level of the concrete sub floor - basically I need to connect the two pipes below the sub floor, I have a plan and a few questions as follows: My plan is to rotate the clay pipe 90 degrees to the left, fit a small length of 110mm pipe, then a 110mm bend and then the new 32mm to 110mm adaptor, this will keep the 110mm pipe and fittings below the concrete subfloor. 1: Can the sink pipe be chased into the wall by about 20mm to prevent it being too far into the room as the wall is going to be plaster boarded? 2: Am I ok to use 32mm push fit elbows / 45s to bring the pipe out from the wall chasing (if ok) to allow it to connect into the 110mm adaptor or should I use solvent weld as they are less bulky? Any feedback, other ideas or suggestions are welcome, thank you, Wozza.

Is there a soil pipe in the corner? Can you take off the plinth under the kitchen units to see what is going on or to check for water?

Interested in this as I about most likely having Cemfloor. Technical Datasheet for Cemfloor : https://cemfloor.co.uk/download/2641/ No information about sealing the floor - just says to lightly abrade the surface to clean off any building residue. Have you tried calling them for advice?

Take a look at the Aurora Aone range. https://aone.auroralighting.com/ProductDetails//AU-A1ZBDSS

My PV cables go between the overlap in the felt, that is just lazy, it would not have taken long to thread them through. You could put a loop in the cable to stop any drips reaching anything electrical. I decided against putting my inverter in the loft, due to the high temperatures in the summer months. Even with it in the coldest room in the house (the garage) the cooling fan still operates during the summer.

Thanks chaps.

Hi All, My side extension roof is 2300mm wide, the architect has specified 400mm rafter centres (so 7 rafters) What do people normally do when its an odd size? would you fit them at 400mm centres and have a smaller centre at the end or would you divide the space up equally so that they are all the same centres (in my case it would be 383mm centres) Thanks Wozza.

Fitted one last week and four a few months ago without any problems. Are the windows square and flat once fitted (same gap / space around the openings) My latches look totally different to yours. Have you tried calling Velux technical? they were very good when my builder had an issue.

Just sign up and send a copy of the receipt / invoice. https://velux.qwasi.com/rewards/

Our Siemens hob, is just placed into the hole in the Silestone quartz, no fixings.

Sign up to the Velux rewards scheme. I got £140 back (in vouchers for various shops) for my Velux windows.