dogman

no weight at all it is decorative, might try a test build as got a pile of flint out last builds foundations

Another one is the NHER plan Assessor. You get a month free trial. Do your design stage yourself as you do not need to be qualified. You get a professional looking file for building control. Send your copy to an online assessor once built who will do the as built and SAP/EPC for about £80 I found NHER the easiest to use

Thanks for the link. I had seen a similar product but the flint type was wrong. As we are at edge of the South Downs NP we need flint from the local area and as they are in Salisbury i think they should be south down flint.

We have designed our house with a plinth with flint panels around part of the house and one small wall made of flint and intended to use the ready made flint blocks. I know that they look fake and even attempts to disguise them by adding small knapped flints does not make them much better The issue we have is both walls are single skin cavity and then timber frame Are there any user with experience of using flint who know of a way of building it without a backing block and keeping it 100mm ish thick. I did think of using a cement board as the backer as the timber frame will have boards fitted above the flintwork for rendering

What sort of cover are people getting for their money. We used the insurance rebuild cost for our build and quotes are coming in for £1000+ for 18mths Are people using rebuild costs as a self build or a contracted insurance rebuild? taking off plant cover or caravan cover gave a small reduction but to get it to under £700 i would struggle

Interesting. Our property has a fully operating septic tank built over 200 years ago. It has three brick bell chambers and a drainage field that has been replaced recently. The first chamber is full of thousands of small red worms that eat what we deposit We don't use anything that will kill the worms and in 14 years only had to empty it twice and both times they always leave a foot or so in the bottom so they breed again. No smell or issues

last lot went up tonight, lovely view across Thames, fire burning nicely and a rather large moon topping it off.

Trusty demolition saw works just as well nearly down

Oops, the ceiling fell in

Bit of larch cladding and it will melt steel, Was going for larch again but seeing the old stuff burn looking at fake fibre board type

The whole lot is infected with wood worm, dry rot and wet rot. There must also be a rot i don't know about. We did try and give it away for bonfire night but they all wanted me to drop it off It is best to burn it all as soon as removed especially as we are going timber frame for new house

Bonfire night went well. I burnt my house

Its slow progress taking a house down by hand

The last house i built i used a flow screed on top of clipped pipes. It was pressured to working pressure during the installation. Both methods require the floor to be walked on during installation. One thing to look out for If you are putting any pipes in ducts the ducts will rise in the flow screed as there is a lot more air in the pipe and you only have 70mm of liquid to stop this

My MVHR unit will be at one side of the house so to get the manifolds centrally located or at least so that the radial pipes of an equal length will mean quite a long run of pipe between the unit and the manifolds. My current property the pipe between the unit and the manifold is about 1m. in the new house it will be about 6M

Can i please bump this bit of my post before it becomes lost in the JSH discussion

ProDave I like what you have done with the window cills. In an earlier post (old website) you were using the alloy cills, is this still the case as it looks like you have used something else. I am currently looking at how to create the look of a stone cill and how you have done yours is what i am after although slightly deeper

Ok read through JSH blog( thanks PeterW). Probably too much information and i got distracted by other things in the blog. So i think this is my plan On same wall (north east) min 2m apart. on cold side of dwelling away from heat pump away from prevailing winds keep ducts as short as possible and equal Next issue is that we will be using the radial duct systems with manifolds. Is it best to have the manifolds near to the MVHR and longer radial duct or reduce the radial duct length by putting the manifold close to the rooms to be vented i also found that JSH is active elsewhere.

I have been thinking about the location of the vent for our proposed MVHR. The property has a plant room that sits to the side of the house. I was intending to draw and vent at different sides of the house. The rear is south facing so we have a warm and a cold side to the house. The air sourced heat pump for the heating is to the rear of the plant room. I have two questions. Does it make a difference where to vent and draw. Did think that if i draw from the cold side it would help with summer cooling which is more important than heating Second part is that i would then be venting on to the heat pump or at least a couple of feet above. Was thinking of venting straight on to the back of the pump as the extracted air in mid winter will be a lot warmer than the outside air Any thought / advice please

We have heat pump drier, They are more money up front but so far have been a lot cheaper to run. seem to be on for a couple of hours a time but ours is in a part of the house tat is cool.

We have electric underfloor in the en suite wet room to dry the floor and it provides plenty of warmth for your feet Don't need to worry about floor level as it sits under the tile in the adhesive It responds quicker and is probably cheaper to run when heating one room ( I also stand to be corrected ?)

We are currently living in a very well insulated SIP house while our MBC (300mm twin wall) house is built. So far we have not turned on the underfloor heating upstairs and downstairs it is limited to the living room and a bathroom for about an hour in the evening. I find the MHVR evens the temperature out around the house. The new house will have underfloor in the slab downstairs but upstairs will be fan coil radiators. An airsource heat pump that modulates will be the heating source My hope is that if we find the house gets warm in the summer they can be used to cool the bedrooms and the slab downstairs.

I bought one of the type you have listed and never really got on with it. I could get a seal on a straight length of pipe but as stated above had a leak from the bulb that needed the pipe bending and clamping. We did trace the problem to a leaking air admittance valve after taking apart the system. I will be testing each stage as i go this time around All building control did was to plug the soil at the nearest chamber. Flush the loo and wait a few minutes to make sure it held.

Crofter we did exactly that with the last build and used two rough cut boards joined together with a strip on the rear (glued and screwed) although it looks ok it did move and pull apart over the first summer due to shrinking and twisting The resulting gap is visible but to be honest is not noticed.

We used inst stick in our SIP house. We stuck a 50mm insulation board to the inner skin, then two layers of plaster board then skimmed. the lower board being cut to accommodate the services. It was a total DIY job and we found it easy to use. We even did the slopping roof where we made a frame to prop up each board for 30min while it set. 4 years on and still stuck