oranjeboom

£5 off with £40 spend at TS: JUNECAT80 valid end June

Actually, I did ask my brother, but dragging his heels with his extension. Just wasted 1hr of my life going through all those lovely auction listings ("Do I need a red double decker bus? NO! But look at the price!!!!...........") If anyone needs scaffolding wants to start a scaffolding company: https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/auction-catalogues/timed/eddisons/catalogue-id-eddiso10483#lot-f9947397-6d07-44fd-9ea9-aa5400fe689d Not sure where they are based, but potentially a big saving if you have a large build/have space to store the gear you don't need!

Walk on glazing? Where's that then??????????

Yes, it's ATAB. I did contact them, but they just routed me back to the UK. There's also a Polish outfit who have a presence in the UK who appear to do an identical design (though I suspect that they too source from ATAB. But they do at least fit as part of the service (which is a few £k more).

@joth yes, getting from CSS. Just over 5k iirc which is for 2 half winders. The annoying thing is they appear to be a middle-man business as the actual staircase is manufactured in Sweden.

I think @PeterStarck has a modular staircase that he fitted himself which looked good. You don't necesarily have to go for steel. I was going down that path but out of the 3 that came to look/quote, none of them ended up giving me a quote (no reasons given, nada...pretty typical service down this way it seems). If it's a fairly straight forward design, then you may have more luck, but I guess many are concerned not only with the design itself but also the BRegs. Have you considered something like this in timber? Have decided to go for that design mysef now. Certainly cheaper than steel. Also think of the glass and all that cleaning if you have 'little hands' to deal with....

Hi Jeremy - thanks for the valued input. I'll probably go and have a look tomorrow then and see which tube is cracked precisely. I think as it's a local unit, the water head will be set to high (I hope) in which case good for me....as long as I can get it to work. I don't really have time to be faffing around ("just buy a new one.....") but a few hundred saved will help in other areas.

Really don't want to spend £800 on a unit, so have been looking out for used units. There's a local one up for grabs which needs a new Harveys h20 twin tank (not electric): Regen: 17; Resin BS How does that tie in with hardness levels? If not adequate, can I change any settings on the unit? @PeterStarck I recall you had a Harvey with your hardness at 320ppm (mine is 301) - are you able to reset the regeneration cycling/timing? Currently sold as spares as according to the chap selling it, the riser tube ( described as 'the small tube that runs from the bottom to the top external to the two big tanks') is cracked. Would that be this part? https://www.wrekinwatersofteners.co.uk/wrekinwatersofteners/final.asp?id=1906 I know @JSHarris has some experience with repairing these units. Are these fairly easy to repair or engineered in such a fashion that you have to break it even more to repair it? If this unit can deal with hardness just over 300ppm, I'll have a visit this weekend to inspect it.

Okay, thanks! Guess that's why it's best to stretch it out. Looks as though I will have to delay my install once again as there's a birds nest in the eaves and I'm missing a part from BPC, so that will give you some time to install yours and then for me to pick your brains later on! : )

Yes, just come out of the loft myself, sweating like a pig. Was cool in the house so was a welcome thing to go into loft to warm up! By flexi, do you mean this: Only asking as the install guide states flexi duct: Ideally I don't want to use that as I can imagine the air resistance will be so much more (but it's used there to 1) make install easier, rather than having to cut pipework 100% correct 2) reduce vibration from the unit itself to the rest of the duct work).

Just installing my Kinetic and in a similar situation as yours. You say 'top' of the unit...you probably have a reason for connecting the flexi up there, but if not, then you could also swap the spigots round to the side (instead of top), which may make connections easier/shorter.

A few layers of chicken wire ? Or maybe this will scare them off:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-48266605 And £11 billion appears to be an underestimate at even 30% uptake! Glad I am still on old tech and won't be switching!

Why's that? Did you have to push the car home?

Okay, now that I have moved the window and enlarged the room (thanks guys), I have found a short projection toilet: Tavistock Q60 Back To Wall Pan (https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/19482.htm) which is only 460mm in projection. Anyone has experience of this particular toilet? Probably can't get any shorter than 460mm and you want it to be usable at the end of the day!

No!...see below Don't worry, I do that already! Yes, it is a utility / washroom, so will definitely need the sink in there. Looks as though best option is if I want the space is to go for a back to wall toilet with remote cistern hidden to the right of toilet and then behind a wall hung cupboard. This should give me sufficient space I think: Doorway view: Pipe clips = toilet outline Copper pipe = sink unit Timber upright = position of stacked washer and dryer. Standing by the sink (washing machine to the left of timber uprights)

Thanks @Onoff, but the room's a utility room, so will be going for a kitchen/utility sink. Main concern is the space in front of toilet (yellow area): Although the wife has smaller feet and she'd probably spend most of the time doing any cleaning in there....

No, as I have a window above the toilet. Yeah, tried that too, but you'll almost be getting 'chinned' as you get on/off from the throne by the work surface. It is a bungalow, but can't route the pipe up into loft due to window (if that's what you were thinking). Corner toilet would almost be okay, but it just looks out of place IMO and would look better in a bigger room which kind of defeats what they are for I guess. Other issue would be the soil pipe which comes out of the concrete slab - I'm not moving that as I have ufh in the floor. Also not going to box in. I have 470 (wall side) and 540 (sinkside), but may main issue is lack of foot space in front of the toilet and sink area as the washer/dryer push the sink towards the toilet.

Cost is an increasingly big issue at this point so will have to leave that option, thanks anyway! What toilet type do you have and projection distance please? What space do you have between the wallside and the toilet? My wife like's everything centred, but in this case will have to off-centre it a bit also. It'll look really stupid if you can't reach the sink without a foot spa treatment by standing in the toilet!!

I have a small laundry room that will house the washing machine and drier (obviously) but due to it's size (1.7m x 1.6m) things are going to get compact so will have to stack the machines like so: I will end up with the sink to the left of the wm/dryer as above, but will be to the rightermost position as I also have to squeeze in the toilet. So rough plan is: As I actually want to able to reach the sink without having to get my feet wet by standing in the toilet, I need to push the toilet back as far as I can. No point getting a Geberit framed toilet system as you end up coming out by at least 120mm after boarding etc. So need to create as much standing space as i can in the yellow area. Two options: 1) Short projection close-coupled toilet So I am toying with the idea of either having a very short projection toilet - what's the shortest projection toilet available?? Shortest one I have found is 590mm. 2) Back to wall toilet with remote cistern The other more complicated option is to get a BTW toilet which will give me an extra 11cm of floor space (projection only 480mm). This would mean locating the cistern to the right of the toilet hidden away (boxed in probably to look like a wall hung cupboard). A long 1.6m flush pipe would be needed to reach the toilet and it would come into the back of the toilet at a horizontal angle rather than your typical vertical-> horizontal approach. I want to minimise the number of bends. Can I get away with using 32mm waste pipe for the flush pipe? Should be sufficient head as cistern will be over a metre higher than toilet and only 2 bends to contend with. I would board up the 32mm waste/flow pipe by hacking out a channel in the plaster on the wall (pretty thick) and then battening out with 25mm plus 12mm pb so would 'lose' 36mm and end up projecting 516mm (still better than 590 with CC toilet). Flush operation would be button on side of false cupboard using an air push type. Presume that the button will still work below the level of the actual cistern? Soil pipe comes up through the concrete floor so will probably have to use a flexi pan connector with either set up. Similar discussion here but in loft (no option for me as I have a window above the toilet): Option 2 seems best space-wise but is more complicated - anything I have missed that makes this a non-starter?

Thanks @Bitpipe!

Bumping this up as people probably have fitted/ are thinking of decking this time of year. I'm not looking to get mine done just yet (Autumn probably) but as I take forever to make decisions, i need to start looking now. Some of the stuff looks woeful (why would you go for hollow boards?) and the price dimply does not reflect quality. As always, each product appears to have some scare story online, e.g. Timco (see below). Have to wonder whether hardwood options actually are still better if many of the composite issues are true. Sure enough, you have to take a bit more care in looking after your wood and are also unlikely to be having a BBQ out in the rain (well maybe here in the UK...) so slipping is less of a risk. What are people's real life experiences of composite decking? Prices, products? @Jude1234 , @vk2003- have you decided what to go for? @Bitpipe - still happy with your choice? I'd go for a standard patio, but have a metre fall at the back of the house so would need significant backfilling.

And here I was about to get Sunamp to deliver my 2x 12Kw eDual units....looks like I may have to either delay again or consider asking for a refund! Intrigued whether you are able to diagnose your issues @Barney12 and hopefully Jeremy @JSHarris has no further tinkering to do!

If you do go down that path, could you take a series of pics that non-engineers like me could follow? Would indeed be useful to know what the thing is doing rather than just turning on the hot tap and seeing whether the thing's been charging or not. Be good to be able to self-diagnose the unit without having to call Sunamp each time. The last thing I want to do is un-plumb and manhandle 400kg to get access or even send the units back. Shame there's no app or even a USB port you can check the status with.