oranjeboom

Thanks Jeremy - we'll be looking forward to your review....as will Sunamp I am sure! Hope they have budgeted for over-time!

Thank nod, so as i understand: 50mm stud---/---120mm void--/--50mm stud (with the void containing one layer of acoustic insul)? ***just seen the other responses after posting this, so will digest*** Yes, resilient bars I have come across. Thanks all.

@JSHarris What's the timeline for your new controller? My UNiQs have gone back once already so ideally I want them back with new controllers that actually do the recharge as required! So looking forward to your testing feedback when you have installed your new controller!! ?

Looking to soundproof the wetroom/shower as much as possible. My daughter's taste in music....hurts everyone's ears so my son whose bedroom is on the other side of the stud wall won't want to hear her 'sing' in the shower! It's a 95mm stud wall with Schluter kerdiboard and 9mm tiles. My plan was to either fill the stud wall with PIR (95mm) or use up my acoustic loft roll type stuff (Superglass roll) that I still have lying around. Alternatively, I was going to go fit the acoustic stuff in the studs and then add a 50mm PIR sheet up the wall, ending up with 145mm wall (plus PB). What's best?

@Odyssium I had a £$%^&*^$£"$£%^&^* cowboy builder bugger up my concrete floor. Intention is also to take him to court once I have a final figure for corrective action. I've managed to locate him on social media so to some extent can track him via that. I guess you have tried doing that? How did your family come across him? Via a word of mouth, internet? Perhaps if they re-trace their route they can track him down....and then potentially ask someone else to enquire with him about that house extension they are planning..."where shall we send the plans to? We don't do email and we shall be away next month so can get my friend to post the plans to you..." There's also the electoral roll to reference. My cowboy has various addresses so if need be I plan to stake them out as I think a PI would do the same and charge through the nose to pretty much sit around and wait. IIRC the small claims court route allows you up to 6yrs to make a claim after the event. So you have a bit of time. Unless @scottishjohn's contact get's there first. I know which route I am preferring. I may just have to PM John to see if any of your mates mates have a 'contact' in the south....

Well it was for my brother's extension and he still needs to finalise drawings etc, so...............

Well you can also mention that's put me off them. As I've now ordered from Drench to be on the safe side.

Thanks Peter, Ed Yes, was going to box it in anyway as going into the attic would mean an ugly boxed in section in the corner somewhere.

Thanks @onoff - shopping list sent to wife for approval!! @dpmiller - may swap hudson reed handheld with the water saver one then and hope the boss does not notice!!! Supplier error...no returns accepted.

Working out the bathroom pipe runs I will probably need to fit an AAV to reduce vacuum issues as I won't have a soil stack going up through the roof or up the side of the house. The soil pipe from bathroom goes down through the slab and outside into adjacent inspection chamber (2m away). The soil pipe that serves toilet will also drain the basin and bath, so my thought was to simple locate an AAV under the basin (boxed in, but accessible). Would that do the trick? Excuse the 'drawing' below. It's late.... As an aside, I realise I will also need to vent to atmosphere the outside foul drain and was going to achieve this by adding an exterior vent pipe in an outside hedge if the BCO really insist.

Thanks gents! @Onoff - you've finally completed your bathroom? Looking good! Also didn't know the BBC had diversified into showers. Discount with valid TV licence? Wife's just come home and changed her shower wishes.? Hoping I can at least slip this in as replacement hand held: https://www.savewatersavemoney.co.uk/products/view/570/mira-eco-shower-head-chrome.html Anyone used these? Daughter tends to spend ages washing her hair. This is advertised to reduce that down to 7L/min

Looking to fit a concealed thermostatic valve set with handset and fixed ceiling shower head. I was looking at Grohe but I may have to compromise on a cheaper brand like Drench (never come across them tbh) who give a 15yr guarantee on the valve (10yrs on shower arm and head). Anyone has experience of them? I'm spending a fortune on Schluter wet room so looking to reign in the spend where I can. https://www.drench.co.uk/primrose-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-fixed-shower-head-handset-kit vs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GROHE-Grohtherm-3000-Cosmopolitan-Rainshower-Shower-Solution-Pack-4-118323/142848509617?epid=2254803060&hash=item21426f46b1:g:jC0AAOSw8eFbNk2z (would need to get a true ceiling shower arm) TBH, I don't like the Grohe designs. Ideally what me/the boss wants: No loss in pressure if someone flushes the toilet Looks good and is child-proof Water saving option/feature 'economy mode' (guess that could be another add on product I could buy - restrict flow and duration?) Something that lasts at least 10yrs! Controls that are easy to use (I really dont want to be getting in the shower with the MIL! to show her how to turn the temp up) Will be connected to Sunamp Uniq units and I have at least 6 bar pressure with decent flow rate.

And what's your address again? ?

Thanks Jeremy! You seem to like your timers on all appliances....

Thanks! I have UFH in the bathroom also, but this is just going to be used in those months that I will ban the UFH from working (Feb-Nov !! ? ). If I don't get an element with thermostat, it will just be hot or cold, correct? They'll soon learn not to touch it...or brush themselves against it to get that everyday Xmas feel.... (????????) That's Christmas presents sorted then already! Only 10months to go too!!

Looking to get an electric towel rail for the (small) bathroom. I read that 'converting' your typical central heating type radiator into a dual or electric-only rad is simple to do with a blanking plug and a heating element. Anything to stop me buying this one and adding a heating element? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202214458097?ul_noapp=true I messaged the seller and they came back with "I am afraid not, it is suitable for central heating only."☹️ Funny that they do sell an electrical version (Dual fuel model) of the same rad: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1600-x-450mm-Heated-Towel-Rail-Dual-Fuel-Thermostatic-Anthracite-Flat-22-Rails/202495705908?_trkparms=aid%3D333200%26algo%3DCOMP.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180409081753%26meid%3Dfac0e4426b5c4700b801f2b81132977b%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D202214458097%26itm%3D202495705908&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 Surely if I were to buy the £49-flavoured one and stick a heating element up there, then that would work?? I was simply going to follow the a la Harris methodology:

Exactly what I typed on the other thread, though Jeremy believed that the inbuilt sensors would protect the PCM. With BS responses from SA, it's easy to start fearing the worst and it won't take much for us 'early adopters' (as we are seen by SA) to stick to more traditional technologies at the expense of SA.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Could the admin teams @Admin perhaps cut and paste the last few pages on these Sunamp issues and create a new thread as it's clearly not about efficiency labels any longer. "Sunamp charging issue not addressed. Buyer beware!" may be more of an apt thread title and may actually get the attention of Sunamp themselves. Although I am sure people have given them the very precise link as well no doubt. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I've had to keep the pole and strap in place ever since, otherwise the panels will all just tumble like a house of cards. I think the strap approach is pretty standard - just a way to get the panels as tight as possible whilst the glue sets and the remaining panels are fixed/gunned. It's fine, he was wearing a padded baseball cap and steel capped boots. If they will provide a warranty that covers the sole for 25yrs then most people would not bother with sole plate protection. However, how many companies would actually cover the sole plate specifically? And there are at least a few SIP companies that have gone bust. No good if the warranty went down with the company. Historic timber buildings with sole plates often require remediation work - why take the risk with SIPs? And I suspect SIP companies don't consider it to be an issue ( as most are fairly new with the method) and if building regs are happy that there is a DPC, then all boxes are ticked. Company I dealt with did not give a hoot what I used. I suspect most SIPs companies don't know what marmox blocks are and simply state that dense blocks would be best because they know what they are. No reason not to use them - just a matter of knowing how to use them and how to fix through them into the sole plate. Certainly not the first time marmox has been used on a SIP build, and as long as your BCO is happy with the approach why not? I did have to explain to her what they were etc, but she was fine. In many ways, the UK building industry is many years behind what is being done in Europe and the rest of the world ("well this is how we have done it in the past").

Ahhh, I see you have considered that. Just asked you about that on your other post. Yes, an insulated skirt would be best (EPS rather than PIR) and maybe sit it on marmox blocks. As for erection, I would use experienced installers, not just any joiner/chippy. A few install pics/vids here: The SIP erection was the quickest part of my reno-extension. Lots of hiccups prior and after the install which had nothing to do with the SIPs. Easy to work with and so much easier is the fact that it's all timber so screwing into that when battening out for pb, cladding, doors, windows. Yes, would use SIPs again.

Yes, I did VCL it. With regards to " it's erected correctly" comment, I would always assume that it won't be. Most installers want a quick erection (ahem) and not all panels will be sealed. Even if they guarantee their work, it will be difficult to prove the installers were at fault years down the track. I would emphasize that you are after a Passivhaus level of build (if they even know what PH is). They may take a bit more notice. But I would definitely add a VCL. As for the PIR - how much are you going to add? If you add to much, there could be issues with condensation on the SIP structure. IIRC, it's best to add any insulation on the outside of the SIPs, but see what the SIP company say (or simply go for deeper SIP panels). Don't forget that you'll need a service void also for cables and pipes so adding celotex on the inside will need battening perhaps still. Adding a VCL is a straight forward job if you are doing this yourself (I would not trust anyone else to do it properly). Staple gun, spray glue and plenty of tape is all you need. And this of course: https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-vapour-barrier-green-300ga-2-5-x-20m/12869 As an aside note, have you considered insulating your soleplate? There's mention on that on this forum also as well as GBF.

So Sunamp are clearly aware of this controller problem (a few months now...) and if it's as easy as resetting it each day as Jeremy does, surely that's an easy fix to the controller?? I've held off getting my units delivered and had hoped that this would have been resolved by now. And there's really no point getting these shipped if they simply are not functioning without daily user interaction. #disappointed

I made sure all panels were glued all the way round, I then siliconed all joins before adding the VCL. MVHR will also help.

Urr....how did it turn out? Right....well, it's not all done yet (I'm doing an" @Onoff") . I've had to tackle other jobs in tandem to get other trades lined up. So all pipes are in, but not connected yet to my central manifold. However, have a few tips: - 4 hands are easier than two. I used my ufh pipe coiler which helped when I was on my own. - make sure all exposed nails/screws are removed! ( I spotted a few errant ones in the floor boarding, luckily none were close to the pipework!) - label all the pipes as you go. Even though I did this, I double checked by placing my son in the loft and then me blowing through each pipe to confirm each hot/cold pipe was correctly labelled. Had to correct a few this way! - Better to cut too long than too short! - Get some decent pipe cutters that CUT properly. My cheapo UFH cutters weren't up to the job, and I need to get some decent Rothenberger ones and recut. - shop around for the pipework and peripherals. Most of mine I got from fleabay. And if you plan to get manifolds, they can be £££