Construction Channel

someone was going to ask

we use steel plates for larger increments 5-10mm or hi-load damp for smaller amounts 1-2mm. could always use slate if you have any lying around

we have a double socket by the home phone downstairs which is where my parents charge their mobiles, it was fine when they just had a phone each, But now they have a tablet they needed another lead to be coming out of the socket and a USB faceplate seemed the easiest solution

how much more expensive are they than a standard socket in the same style? after some limited research, they are about 2 1/2 times the price, how much is a few years convenience worth to you in £££ im going to be putting a couple in at least

i haven't planned that far ahead quite yet but I didn't intended on. they're soft reds,...there behind the lead......you worry much. short answer, no

I was wondering weather i could adapt my wrist mount ......

fair enough, I can see the issue you would have with I beams and skill saws (never tried but i can see it wouldn't be as straight forward) there is nothing quite like having a good setup where you can just lay the wood on there to a stop and know they will all be the same length, I'm also a fine one to talk about the weight of cross cut saws, the one i cut my house with needs a forklift to move

well if I'm going to get a reputation for it anyway......... I'll ask Faye where best to mount the goPro

she's just a friend ok.

well I managed to get it down to just under 9, you should have seen it before i edited it down from 35ish mins

I have never used the Bosch model but we have a similar sized Dewalt one for work. It very rarely comes out of the workshop. If the timber is big enough to warrant such a big saw we take a skill saw to it. Mountains/ Mohammed's +1 to a smaller version.

It's mainly the sand is a very light colour. Plus there is white cement and hydrated lime in it. It comes out almost white when its just laid. Then goes more creamy when it goes off. The guage is 7 sharp 1 white cement 1 lime. Originally it was going to be 5 sharp and 2 soft washed. But I didn't have any soft washed on site when I started so now I'm stuck with the (very unforgiving) mix.

Prepare yourself for 8 mins of moaning

just thinking out loud here but could you not just bend the pipe a bit? http://gasproducts.co.uk/10mm-internal-pipe-bending-spring.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN92gZveo3tuOI4Mh9Ffq9-XEXf-dcLVdGFpv67UaiEFRoCSznw_wcB

maybe they have improved the batteries, maybe they just put a new case on it to sell a different range, I wouldn't go near it for a few years, or at least until they bring out the rest of the range in it "The G-series range from Makita is a different lithium-ion battery platform to the Makita LXT range of professional cordless power tools" I read it as its NOT their "professional range"

Milwaukee tools are great while they work but I do see a lot going in for repair at the local tool shop.

If you haven't already got a set, i would recommend getting the adaptors you linked in the OP, I very rarely do anything up by hand since i bought mine I searched 8mm and got there eventually http://cpc.farnell.com/silverline/277866/magnetic-nut-driver-8mm/dp/TL17319

what is your favourite colour? I run Makita and have done for a long time so they would be my recommendation, But since deWalt stopped putting nylon gears in stuff all of the big brands are much of the same (Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch) If you want really good, then Festool or Hilti, But i wouldn't unless someone else was paying for it, I would also avoid Ryobi and einhell as they still arnt up to scratch yet from what i hear. So choose a colour and stick with it

Dont do it!..... well you can if you want but it is an expensive tool, and i do mean tool, not toy if your not planning to make a lot of videos a few hi res stills will be good enough for us, have a good old practice where you feel safe, then try and get some nice atmospheric shots from slightly further away just take plenty of pictures, you will at least get one in the right direction

Hang on a second here mister! Im the one with the drone around here!!! build is looking great, now you have the drone you can get a whole different perspective on things

supposedly CT1 can be painted. but if you are expecting a lot more movement the paint will probably crack itself, how big is the crack in question? could you not use a colour matched sealant? http://www.ct1ltd.com/en/ct1.html

that was the mix we used to "imitate" lime mortar, It all depends on the look you are going for, (soft washed sand is what they would use for rendering) we had some fairly long panels and i never saw any of them crack due to movement so i assume the mix is flexible enough, we used to lay them to a line (none of this scaffold board rubbish ), so each flint has to be structurally sound or it would just slide off. If you are going to be making a "pre made" panel you may want something stickier to hold them all together.

that would make the mix very sticky, The mortar is only there to hold the flints apart, not to stick them together. (at least that was how i was taught) It might also make things harder when you come to "stick" the flints at the end of the day ( *stick* - finish the flint work, like jointing brickwork)

sharp sand looks good with the stones but is harder to work. you will need lime in the mix whatever you do but weather you use white cement and hydrated lime or just hydraulic lime depends how much of a purist you are, back when we were doing a lot of repairs for one of the local estates, IIRC our mix was 5 sharp, 2 soft washed, 1 lime and 1 white cement, (possibly 1 building sand depending how bright the sharp was) we used such a weak mix as we were repetitively cleaning the same flints where people kept driving through the same spot, If i were doing it on my own house i would probably add the 1 building sand and another 1/2 lime and cement,

how much weight is on the single skin plinth? if it is only superficial i should think a cement board backing would be a fairly good solution. I would also steer clear of the flint blocks if at all possible, I laid flints for a good few years so i have a personal hatred for them